I don’t know about you, but a few years ago I wasn’t even aware that one could SEW a sweater. To me, sweaters were garments that one knitted (or for me — bought).
Simplicity 2154 cardigans
It wasn’t until I read an article in a sewing magazine that I became aware that there was even such a thing as a “sweater knit.” The magazine was either Threads or Sew Stylish and showed all of these pretty sweaters and sweater dresses that were sewn and not knitted. A light bulb popped in my head just at that moment! Instead of spending A LOT OF TIME (at least to me! I’ve never knitted more than a scarf!) knitting a sweater, I could just SEW IT!
BlueGingerDoll Bonnie sweater
What are sweater knits? Sweater knits are knit textiles that are often a looser weave with larger yarns than other knits [like jersey] and pretty much look like your favorite sweaters, except that they’re on a bolt. As there are many different types of fabrics, there are different kinds of sweater knits. Sweater knits are made from cotton, polyester, acrylic, rayon, viscose, linen, wool, silk and blends of different fiber contents. Some are thick like a hand knit sweater and some are very lightweight while others can be lacy and mimic crocheted sweaters. Wool jersey is often considered a sweater knit.
Where do I get sweater knits? If you’re looking for sweater knits in fabric stores, they’re generally located in the knit area. If you like to buy fabrics online, a search for “sweater knit” will usually show you all of the sweater knits that are available from that store. I have found some really nice sweater knits from Mood Fabrics, Harts Fabrics, Fabric.com and Fabric Mart Fabrics.
What is it like to sew with sweater knits? A lot of sweater knits are pretty stable and it won’t be much different working with a stable, heavier sweater knit than working with woven fabrics. If you’re sewing with a stretchier sweater knit like a merino jersey or hacci knit, it will be more like sewing with a jersey knit, but likely more stable than working with most jerseys. I use a ballpoint jersey needle when I sew with sweater knits. It’s suggested that you use a 80/12 stretch needle. Sew your sweater knits just as you would anything other knit with a zig zag stitch or serger. Most sweater knits will need to have the seams finished to stop fraying. It’s also important to pre-treat your sweater knit fabric just as you would handle any sweater with the same fiber content.
What can I make with sweater knits? If your sweater knit has some stretch to it, you can make just about any pattern that is meant for knits. Just pay attention to the amount of stretch that a knit pattern might need as a lot of sweater knits are not really that stretchy compared to their other knit counterparts. Some patterns will also specifically state that they are made for sweater knits, but basically you are looking for a pattern that is for a knit with moderate stretch. If you have a pattern that’s meant for a woven fabric, you could usually use a sturdier sweater knit to make that as well.
Cardigan patterns
Simplicity 2154 is my go-to cardigan pattern. I’ve made it four times now and will definitely make some more in the future. I usually shorten the sleeves and the hem when I make it.
Simplicity 2154 [source: Pattern Review]
Another classic cardi pattern is McCall’s 6708 with sleeve, neckline and length variations.
McCall’s 6708 [source: McCall’s Patterns]
I just LOVE the Jenna cardi by Muse Patterns. I’ve seen so many lovely versions and I have some sweater knit fabric set aside to make a couple of these!
Muse Jenna Cardi [source: Muse Patterns]
I love the v-neck version of this unisex cardigan pattern from McCall’s and am planning on making that for a Christmas gift. The shawl collar version with patches would give you that “grandpa” cool swagger.
McCall’s 6803 [source: McCall’s Patterns]
This sweet cardi pattern from BurdaStyle would work great from crocheted sweater knit, a lacy sweater knit or any type of lightweight sweater knit like a hacci knit. Or of course a knit lace that’s recommended!
Burda 03/2013 #107A Lace Cardigan [source: BurdaStyle]
I’ve seen a lot of super cute Julia cardigans around by Mouse House Creations.
Mouse House Creations Julia cardigan [source: Mouse House Creations]
Another cardigan pattern for sweater knits is the Banded Front Cool Cardigan — Pamela’s Patterns #111.
Pamela’s Patterns #111 [source: Pamela’s Patterns]
How about a peplum cardigan? Try McCall’s 6844.
McCall’s 6844 (source: McCall’s Patterns]
If a flowy cardigan is more your style, then McCall’s 6084 might be for you.
McCall’s 6084 [source: McCall’s Patterns]
It’s no secret that the BlueGingerDoll Bonnie is a favorite of mine. I’ve made two now and have at least two more waiting in the wings. There are variations like scoop and bauteau necklines, 3/4 and flutter sleeves.
BlueGingerDoll Bonnie [source: BlueGingerDoll Patterns]
Vogue 8854 is an interesting hooded or mock t-neck pullover sweater.
Vogue 8854 [source: Vogue Patterns]
Or what about this shawl collar version of McCall’s 6796?
McCall’s 6796 [source: McCall’s Patterns]
How about Style Arc’s Alexi classic turtleneck with a lightweight stretchy sweater knit?
Style Arc Alexi [source: Style Arc Patterns]
Or this Vogue 8597 cowl neck sweater pattern.
Vogue 8597 [source: Vogue Patterns]
How about trying Simplicity 1463, a loose-fitting hi-low top out of a lightweight sweater knit?
Simplicity 1463 [source: Pattern Review]
Looking for a loose, comfy sweater? BurdaStyle 7003 is the answer!
Burda 7003 [source: Pattern Review]
I’ve also seen some very nice sweaters made from the Sewaholic Renfrew pattern.
Sewaholic Renfrew [source: Sewaholic Patterns]
And the Deer and Doe Plantain which I think would look super cool in a sweater knit with suede patches.
Deer and Doe Plantain [source: Deer and Doe Patterns]
For a sweater dress, you could take most of the sweater patterns and alter them to make a dress by either elongating the pattern lines or by adding a skirt.
I recently bought two coordinating lightweight sweater knits to make the Muse Gillian Wrap Dress. I don’t think I’ve seen a Gillian yet in a sweater knit, but I don’t see why it couldn’t be made with one! I imagine that the wrap skirt and top version would work just as well, too.
Muse Gillian Wrap Dress [source: Muse Patterns]
Or how about Simplicity 2369? I could definitely imagine this pattern in a stretchy sweater knit.
Simplicity 2369 [source: Pattern Review]
You could also try the Victory Lola for a slim fitting sweater dress.
Victory Lola [source: Victory Patterns]
The Weekender Chameleon Dress by Hot Patterns also looks like it would be a good candidate for a sweater knit.
Hot Patterns 1178 [source: Hot Patterns]
I can see the Style Arc Laura dress being made with a stretchy wool jersey.
Style Arc Laura [source: Style Arc Patterns]
I can also picture Vogue 1390 in a sweater knit.
Vogue 1390 [source: Vogue Patterns]
Kwik Sew 3754 looks like it would be perfect for a sweater knit.
Kwik Sew 3754 [source: Kwik Sew Patterns]
The Bronx Dress by Skinny Bitch Curvy Chic also looks like it would be great with a stretchy sweater knit.
SBCC Bronx Dress [source: SBCC Patterns]
Want a sweater dress that’s super chic? How about the Hot Patterns Deco Vibe Artemis Dress?
Hot Patterns 1165 [source: Hot Patterns]
BurdaStyle 6948 also looks like it would make a great sweater dress. Bonus is that it has the patterns for a cardi and a sweater, too!
Burda 6948 [source: Pattern Review]
Another sweater dress pattern with a cardi and tee pattern included is the Metropolitan by Hot Patterns.
Hot Patterns 1032 [source: Hot Patterns]
I just added a bunch of patterns to my wish list!
Have you sewn with sweater knits before? What patterns do you recommend?
Where do you buy your sweater knits?
Great post!
I agree, you don’t have to have a serger to sew knits at all…but if you become enamored of sewing with any kind of knit, much less heavier sweater types, you owe it to yourself to go test drive a serger. My recommendation is to get a 3/4 thread type, and definitely get a machine with differential feed. I know this all sounds like weird car mechanics talk if you are unfamiliar with sergers, but do a little You Tube browsing/watching and it will make more sense. Ask the dealer to demonstrate for you, too.
I couldn’t live without both my regular machine and my serger. Another thing I couldn’t live without is using either self- or contrasting fabrics to bind edges of knits. If you sew with polar fleece, it’s really a have-to-know technique. Again, somewhere on the Tube you’ll find a decent tutorial (there are some really awful ones out there, so if they start out looking unprofessional, move on.) Another really cool thing about sergers is that there will not be any fabric that could make you think twice about sewing it: metallics, chiffon, waterproof, weird stuff that looks like it will disintegrate when it hits your shears…a serger can whoop them all. Happy sweatering!!
Great post. I am using this as my shopping list for patterns!
Great post Tanya, I immediately went looking for ‘sweater knits’ on some UK online fabric shops and pretty much came up with a big fat zero.
Is it called something else in the UK? Of course we don’t really use the word sweater here, so if maybe someone who has ordered ‘sweater knit’ or something similar in the UK could point me in the right direction for search terms for UK sites that would be amazingly helpful!
Thanks, Caz! I’m not really sure what they call sweater knits in the UK, but I found this listing on Minerva Crafts where they call it “knitted wool.” http://www.minervacrafts.com/50.d-5373-redblackgrey-patterned-knitted-wool-designer-dress-fabric-per-metre.html I also have heard that their wool/viscose jersey is really nice and I’ve been thinking about ordering some from there http://www.minervacrafts.com/isabella-john-kaldor-wool-blend-stretch-jersey-designer-dress-fabric-full-range-of-colours.html
Thank you I’ll defo check those out.
So inspiring! I will need to look for this fabric the next time I hit the fabric store and see what they have. I love how simple it would be to stitch up a few thing.
Weird that I know some stuff about jumpers and skivvies – or sweaters if you’re from the US, given I live in the tropics. But I did once move to Canberra in the autumn, and madly started sewing up a winter wardrobe.
I learnt (heh, the hard way!) that there’s a big difference between patterns that are designed to be the closest layer to your skin versus patterns designed to be worn over a layer, or two layers or is intended to be the outer layer etc.
Just as a jacket or coat pattern is drafted with different armscye depths, shoulder widths etc, to a summer blouse, you can’t take a t-shirt pattern drafted to sit next to your skin, and sew it up and expect it to work comfortably as the second layer, let alone third (or more! yeah Canberra winter was freezing! Often literally.)
And in my experience and observation ‘sweater knits’ or hand-knits etc, are not worn right next to the skin, but at the very least under a singlet, or thermals or skivvy/long-sleeved t-shirt, or both. (or all 3 if you’re a displaced Darwinite in Canberra 😛 )
You need to make that top layer from a draft with similar specifications as the jacket, or coat. Something specifally drafted to allow enough room everywhere – especially in the armscye and shoulder – than a t-shirt pattern needs.
(Your beautiful collection of delicious-looking patterns hasn’t really taken this into account.)
If you want to wear the T-shirt patterns over something, you can sew a size up. Keep in mind though that even with underlayers, many knit patterns (hand knits included) are designed for zero or negative ease. So, if you’d like more ease, say 1-3″, you might need to size up significantly. In the US, it isn’t uncommon to wear sweaters next to the skin or over a very thin base layer like a camisol.
Maybe you can sew a size up, but I was more comfortable in a jumper that was specifically drafted to be worn over something else, especially when it was made of a knit with not much give, like a lot of the sweater knits described here.
Interesting that in the US it’s normal to wear a sweater next to the skin. To me it would be scratchy, I wanted something soft and warm against my skin like some proper thermals. But I’m not really used to heavy clothing so I could just be a wilting tropical flower 😛
Very informative! I love to wear cardigans all year. I can’t wait to try sewing my own. Tanya, I love reading your blog and enjoy checking everyday to see if there’s something new.
Thank you for this article. I have been wanting to try sweater knits, but was stymied as to wear to start, patterns and sources. You answered all that and more in this very informative article. Please keep them coming!
I love sewing sweater knits. Anything I can quickly whip up on the serger makes me happy! The cardis you have sewn look great! I listed the McCalls 6803 on my list of top 5 patterns to sew in to gifts for men. It is a fairly easy sew, and a certain Santa at my house may be getting one for Christmas!
If you would like to view my list you can find it at http://pandorasews.blogspot.com/2014/12/five-great-hand-sewn-gifts-for-man-in.html
Great post! Your sweaters all look great on you! I love the green one a lot. I am definitely going to add some to my sewing line-up and will be checking out all of these patterns.
This was lovely Tanya.
Great ideas. Thanks for the inspiration
Thank you for all the pattern possibilities!