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Sewing for My Curves: Andie from Sew Pretty in Pink

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Hi everyone! Andie from Sew Pretty in Pink here. Today I am here to contribute the “Sewing for my Curves” series. You can read the other contributions here.

Curvy Sewing Collective21

My Figure

I’ve never been able to define my figure based on fruit. If a pear were a little deformed with a large upper half, but slightly smaller than the lower half, that’s me. Also, in the lower half, add a crease for a double belly. I have a large bust, narrow shoulders, small rib cage, protruding double belly, wide hips, big bum, big biceps, big thighs, short arms, tiny hands and tiny feet. In other words, I’m adorable, sexy, and fabulous.

My Measurements

  • High bust: 44″
  • Full Bust: 52″
  • Under Bust: 44″
  • Waist: 46″
  • Hips: 56″
  • Bra size: 44 HH
  • Height: 5’4″

It’s been so long since I’ve worn or even tried on RTW, but, according to the Torrid size chart, I sit around a 22. My bra size is a 44HH (of note, though, I’ve not gone bra shopping for a long time since I make my own bras; I do lots of alterations to my patterns and often start with this as my size, but then will tweak the pattern like crazy so I am unsure of my RTW size).

In sewing patterns, my size is all over the map. In McCall’s/Butterick/Vogue, I usually start with a 22 for the shoulders and then make adjustments from there. In Cashmerette, I go with 24 G/H graded to a 26 at the waist/hips. In Muse Patterns, I use the biggest size at 50. In other indie pattern companies, I find i use a size 26 or 3X, depending on the size range.

My Adjustments

  • Full bust adjustment. Even if the pattern goes up to my bust size, I usually try to use my upper bust measurements to get the shoulders/armholes fitting and then do an FBA. I don’t need to do this adjustment with Cashmerette patterns.
  • Narrow shoulder adjustment. Even with an FBA, I find myself narrowing the shoulders after a muslin by about an inch.
  • Large bicep adjustment. I always need to add to the upper arms to get a good fit. I usually need to add a few inches.
  • Full bum adjustment. Not necessary for most of the dress patterns I use, but in pants I usually add a 1-2″ to the back crotch curve to get them to fit my booty.
  • Shortening the length. Most patterns are made with a taller woman than me in mind. Depending on the pattern, I usually have to shorten patterns by 2-4 inches for skirts and pants.
  • Changing a center back zipper to a side zipper. I have mobility issues that make zipping up a center back zipper absolutely impossible. I sometimes use a center back zipper in skirts where you can turn them around nicely, but I will most often change a pattern to have a lapped zipper on my right side since that is my good shoulder and I can just reach under my arm and unzip.

Favourite Patterns

I am most often seen in the wild in a dress or a skirt with a cardigan over top and leggings underneath. I like sleeveless dresses and tops paired with cardigans and other layers. I’m pretty pale and burn really easily so I need protection from the sun, especially in the summer. Sometimes you will catch me in jeans with a 3/4 length top and, in colder months, a hoodie. Kicking around home, I am most often in shorts with elastic waists and sleeveless tank tops or, if it is a colder month, pj pants/tshirt/hoodie. I like coats with a fit and flare look so that they show off my curves and work well with a dress/skirt or a pair of pants underneath.

Circle Skirts

Simplicity 1812 / Cake Pavlova skirt

My go-to pattern for circle skirts is Cake Pattern’s Pavlova skirt. Seen here with Simplicity 1812 top.

Pencil Skirts

Tenterhook Snapdragon Skirt

My go-to pencil skirt pattern is the Tenterhook Snapdragon pencil skirt. Reviewed here for the CSC.

Fit and Flare/Shirt Dresses

Vintage Floral Linen M6696

M6696 shirt dress is ubiquitous in the sewing blog community and a definite favourite of mine. I’ve made several versions now including a version just using the skirt.

M6887 Apple dress

M6887 is a great fit and flare and, with those princess seams, is due to become a favourite of mine. I only have one version so far, but plans for a bunch more.

Skinny Jeans/Hip Skimming Tops

Springfield Top

Style Arc’s Misty Jeans are my favourite pants pattern and my first. I have three pairs so far and a few more planned for the fall in stretch corduroy. Paired here with Cashmerette’s Springfield top in a soft animal print rayon. Reviewed here for the CSC.

Concord T-Shirt

For a more casual look, my Misty Jeans are paired with Cashmerette Concord T shirt.

Cardigans/Blazers

Decades Everyday Three's a Charm Jacket

Decades of Style Three’s a Charm jacket is the perfect blazer for wearing over the full high-waisted skirts. It also works well with pants:

Decades Everyday Three's a Charm Jacket

Here the jacket is paired with Misty Jeans and a Concord t-shirt in tunic length. I can see it working well with the Springfield top as well.

Jenna cardi and Upton maxi dress

My favourite cardigan pattern is Muse Patterns Jenna Cardigan. Pictured here without buttons (because I always wear it open in the cropped length and I didn’t have buttons at the time to go with the bright pink) using the v-neck expansion pack and the shoulder yokes. There are so many different variations you can create with this pattern that is a perfect workhorse. The dress under is a Cashmerette Upton bodice with a gathered maxi skirt.

Jenna Cardi and Snapdragon Skirt

Here is a longer v-neck merino wool Jenna cardi paired with a Snapdragon pencil skirt in a heavyweight wool plaid. My top is a RTW. Definitely channeling my inner vixen here.

These are my go-to patterns, but I enjoy challenging myself with new silhouettes and styles. I recently made my first pair of shorts and my first tent dress.

Comments

  6. Enjoyed the review and pictures. Love you in the pencil skirts the best. I am large chested, wear a 48I bra, and like clothing that is about 55 inches in the chest area. I have a large belly, about a 52 inch, hips about the same and small legs. If I went RTW by my hips I would wear about a 16 to 18 but in order to cover my huge belly I wear a 22 to 24. Just found the Curvy site and I am sooooooo happy. You guys are so inspirational and I have gathered so much information to keep trying to create my own better fitting wardrobe. Sick of RTW looking so goofy and costing so much. I never took home economics so I am a self taught sewer and have messed up so much. I have quilting mastered but the apparel is still a bit challenging. I am learning though!!! Keep sharing please!

    • Thanks so much, Michele! I’m self taught so I can say with confidence that you can do this, especially with quilting mastered. You got this!

    • Hi….I see you are self taught. You might want to join some FB sewing pages – they are full of experienced and inexperienced sewers willing to gracious share their knowledge with the less experienced ones….

  7. Andie, your clothes look lovely and you prove it’s worth making the adjustments for the great fit. I am totally inspired with your sewing. Fliss

  8. Oh, that apple print dress with the princess seams! And oh, those pencil skirts! A-dor-a-ble!! I have the same shirtdress pattern but havent made it yet. Kinda scared of all those buttons, lol. Lovely post, thank you.

    • Thanks so much, Nita! Isn’t that apple print cute! Instead of buttons, you could try snaps! I’m planning my next M6696 in a chambray print with snaps. 😀 Then all you have to do is hammer them in.

  11. Thank you, Andie! I too, have had a hard time defining my shape. We have identical measurments except I have broad shoulders and I am 5’10”. The “B-Belly” is always a struggle with dress and skirt patterns (except for fit &flare and circle) because I never know if I will be able to make adjustments look right across my tummy. This was a great variety and I love to see how everything fit on you. I particularly love the maxi you created.

  13. I really enjoyed reading and looking at the pics of your makes in this post! Like everyone else I found it so helpful to see which patterns you used and how. Inspiring to see how you have made your whole wardrobe to suit and compliment you. I’ve studied fit so much you’d think I”d be a pro by now but I still must make up a muslin first to see how the pattern and material is going to really behave.

    • Thank you so much, Kathleen. 🙂 I will make a muslin every time. I wouldn’t call myself a fit pro, but I do know my own body and I know I need a muslin to see how the pattern/material not only behaves, but works for my body. I think making a muslin IS the mark of a pro. 😉

  14. Thank you so much for this review~! You look adorable in everything! My measurements are so close to yours and I have the abdominal fold as well. Not only does the abdominal fold cause adjustments to patterns, but it’s just simply uncomfortable in hot, humid, sticky weather~! Mind is a result of two surgeries in that area when I was young. The doctor told me the muscles/etc were cut hip bone to hip bone and they would give out. At the time I had no idea what he meant!! I have the larger bust and the narrow shoulders as well. Thank you for mentioning which patterns you use and modeling them. Helps so much~

  15. Lovely to read all about you, I’ve read this thinking I don’t know a lot of my sizes and usually do a pattern according to my bust so I’m off to take all my measurements. You’ve made some super clothes.

    • Thanks so much, Lyndsey. Accurate measurements and measuring often are what I do. And sometimes measuring multiple times for fit adjustments along the way helps, too. 🙂

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