Have you seen lots of wide leg pants on Instagram and sewing blogs? Wide legs are back in style, and Peppermint Magazine has a free Wide Leg Pants pattern that both Megan and Maggie wanted to try even though we were both new to the wide leg pants trend. We ended up with two very different versions, so hopefully we can inspire you to try out wide leg pants, no matter what your typical style is!
This is a FREE pattern that goes up to 49″/119cm waist and 54.5″/139cm hip and is designed for medium to heavy weight woven fabrics.
What are your measurements, height and body type?
My measurements are 45/40/47. I’m 5’3” tall. I’m an apple from the side, hourglass from the front.
I sewed a size G graded to an H waist.
Adjustments: These pants are drafted for someone 5’7” tall. The rise of my test version was way too long. These are meant to have a high rise, but not up to the rib cage. I took an inch off the rise all the way around including the fly and pocket pieces.
I ended up taking about 4” of the leg width. I know these are supposed to be wide, but I found the width to be far too much. Maybe that width would be fun in a fabric with more drape, but in denim, I felt like I was going to trip on the hem. I took the width mostly out of the side seam starting at the high hip—my fullest point.
What I didn’t do is shorten them. These are drafted with a 26” inseam which is full-length on my little legs. I experimented with the look of shorter hems, but couldn’t find a cropped length I liked.
Fabric: This is Robert Kaufman Railroad stretch denim. It has 2% lycra which gives it just a little stretch.
Changes for future versions: I’m quite happy with my finished pants although they still feel a little big in the seat. I might tinker a little more with fitting in a second version.
I did not like the way the fly was constructed. This was my first time sewing a separate fly—the fly piece is not cut as part of the front leg. I found it needlessly fussy. It required hand basting and Wonder Tape to get it to stay put. Luckily the stripes hide some wonky stitch lines. I’ll definitely use a different fly in version 2.
Final Thoughts: I’ve worn these a few times since finishing them last month. They are a fun, easy-to-wear pant. I want to make a knee-length linen version for summer. If you want to try the wide-leg pant trend, give these a sew.
Measurements: 45″ bust, 41″ waist 52″ hip, 5’7″
Body Shape: Representing team pear!
Pattern size used and Fit Adjustments: My measurements fell between sizes, but closer to the “I” size so I cut that. I preemptively added an inch to the back crotch curve, which may have been slightly excessive. I may reduce it a bit if I make the pattern again. After cutting the pattern pieces, I basted to fit and decided to take in the side seams a bit to account for the fact that I used a slightly stretchy denim (maybe 1/2″ each?) and then scooped out the back crotch curve a bit more. I have since (after taking photos) gone back in a removed another 1/2″ from each leg, meaning I took the whole garment in about 4″. I think this pattern is designed with a fair bit of ease, based on the finished garment measurements, and I used a stretch woven instead of a non-stretch as was called for.
Fabric: Mystery stash stretch woven (I suspect from Joanns’).
Changes for future versions: Like Maggie, I wasn’t a fan of the fly construction. I had never made pants without a cut-on fly before and it was a bit of a struggle, in addition to the fact that the fly is facing the wrong direction and I reversed it (perhaps its supposed to be menswear inspired but I thought it would be annoying). I think I would hack the pattern to have a cut on fly facing the “womenswear” direction if I make these again.
Additionally, the entire pocket is designed to be cut out of your fashion fabric, which I thought would be a bit bulky with denim. I poorly hacked a pocket facing into these and used quilting cotton for my pocket bags, but I forgot to account for seam allowance correctly and the quilting cotton can be seen from certain angles. I would like to properly alter the actual pattern next time.
I also used a trouser hook instead of a button on these, which gives them a slightly more formal look. It might be fun to make these in a linen with a statement button next time!
Final Thoughts: This is a well fitting, basic pattern that could be used in a number of fabrics and be hacked endlessly! Since its free, I highly recommend you give it a try if you are in the size range. If you want to see more photos of my version or read more about my fit issues in the back, hop over to my blog: https://thegreenviolet.com/2018/10/02/in-the-folds-for-peppermint-magazine-wide-leg-pants/