Many of you will have seen the new release by Colette patterns, the Dahlia dress. It’s described as the perfect year-round dress, and features a yoke waist (while I hate the term “universally flattering”, because nothing is ever universally flattering – I’m sure you can tell me some examples! – I actually love these features), and gathers at the neckline and under the bust. Version 1 has 3/4 raglan sleeves, with a lightly gathered skirt, whereas Version 2 is finished with bias binding (which also form straps), and a gored skirt.
Please note, I purchased this pattern with my own money (using the “sneak peek” code). All opinions expressed are my own. You can see my blog post with more photos [here](http://www.tworandomwordsblog.com/2014/10/a-strawberry-dahlia). I named it a strawberry but as pointed out by some of my readers it is SO OBVIOUSLY actually a watermelon. With white seeds. A strawmelon?
Design
Well, I love it – this could be the quickest I’ve ever bought the pattern (about 30 seconds after opening the email). And as you can see, I sewed it up pretty quickly too – I used the narrow excuse of “I need some buttons!” to drive the 30 minutes to work to print it out (and I grabbed a mask at the same time because I was cleaning my iron), then cut, taped and traced it out while watching old seasons of Project Runway (season 5 contained the phrase “I don’t call it plus sized. I call it plus sexy”).
I know that waist yokes are flattering on me, and I love little bust gathers. The design is similar to Vogue 8469, but Dahlia has raglan sleeves and the sleeveless version.
Sizing
It goes up to a size 26!!!! This is the same size range as their knit range but in the numeric sizes rather than up to 3XL. So, bigger ladies rejoice!
For reference, my measurements are: High Bust 38″, Bust 40″, Waist 32″, Hips 47″. I cut a size 12 in the bodice and graded out to a size 18 in the hips. I did not need to do that and the hips ended up way too big – I’ve already gone back and altered my pattern to be smaller. According to the finished measurements I shouldn’t be able to fit the size 12 hips and the 18 would only give me 5″ of ease, but for me at least there’s definitely too much.
Fit
I’m still not sure exactly where the bust gathers are supposed to sit. I would have thought they should go directly under the bust, but they don’t seem to. On me, having followed the size 12 with no changes, they sit 1-2″ under my bust, which is similar to how it looks on the model. If I pull up the bodice, the bottom yoke seam is higher than my true waist, and the neckline is much higher than looks good. For reference I am tall (178cm) and have a very low set bust (I always have to lower darts) so I’m surprised the bodice is so long. This may be a symptom of having a smaller bust than the patterns are drafted for – bigger busts will take up more length.
You’ll notice in my photos that there is a reasonable amount of bagginess in the bust – again I think this is a length issue, as well as a result of my narrow shoulders – as someone said on my blog, the excess of fabric is “collapsing in on itself”, causing the bagging. Without the sleeves to hold up the bodice and create tension, it can only go down!
Since taking the photos I took two 1cm tucks out of the neckline and it has helped the fit significantly – to fix this for the next time I’m not sure if I should just increase the amount I gather, remove some length, or do a “narrow shoulder adjustment”.
I also think the back is much too high (for me at least) – from the photo below I’d guess it needs to be lowered about 4-6″ so look right on me (to just above where the darts end). In fact I think it’s something most people would want to consider, as I imagine it would look best lower on almost anyone.
For reference, I’ve laid out the two versions on top of each other – there does seem to be some slight difference between the two other than just a seam allowance (which you don’t need for version 2’s neckline). On the left is the back bodice, with version 1 on top (as it’s smaller). To the right is the front bodice with version 2 (the smaller) on top. So where the height is good for the sleeved version, it may be too high (front and back) for the sleeveless version.
Instructions
The instructions are good – good order of sewing. The only change I made was to sew the waist yoke pieces onto each bodice piece before doing the side seams, and I did a lapped zip instead of an invisible zip (which I didn’t have). I stitched the bias binding on with my bias binding foot. The bias binding is stitched on at the end, I’m guessing so you can try on the dress and work out the correct length for the straps, once the zip is in and the weight of the skirt is attached.
The instructions are good for both beginners and more advanced stitchers – the pictures are good enough to follow along with if you know what you’re doing, but they have included more information for beginners (like, why to stay stitch, and why use two gathering threads rather than just one). There’s also a glossary at the end and links throughout the instructions for more information.
Pros
- I, for one, love the design! It’s super cute and I can see many of these fitting well in my wardrobe
- I don’t think it uses nearly as much fabric as suggested on the yardage (I didn’t need 3 yards!); Colette Patterns tends to over-estimate yardage. Keep in mind that the front and back bodice are cut on the fold though, so you may want to cut this out on flat fabric
- Good, thorough instructions
- Great size range, up to size 26 (54″ bust!)
- There is also a free downloadable booklet on how to make the sleeved version with stripes/plaids
- I’m pleased that it works well both for spring/summer AND autumn/winter, making Northern and Southern hemisphere stitchers just as happy! Especially me, because I always fall for what the Northern hemisphere is sewing and end up with the wrong clothes.
- Can look good in a wide variety of fabrics (both drapey, like linen/rayon/lightweight cottons, and more structured fabrics like midweight cottons, wools, etc)
Cons
- Fitting may be difficult – I personally haven’t sewn much with raglan sleeves so that may take a bit to get my head around
- You may find, like me, that the bodice is rather long
- Be careful you don’t stretch out the neckline when sewing on your bias binding (I accidentally did, even with staystitching)
- Be prepared to reduce ease in the skirt
- Smaller busted ladies may have to do a small-bust adjustment. Which means bigger busted ladies may not need a FBA!
So, what do you think? Have you bought the pattern yet, or do you plan to?
I order a hard copy the sneak preview day and received the pattern within 3 days or maybe it was 2 days. I have no doubt I will have to do many adjustments but that’s the way my body is these days. I actually bought this patter with my daughter and daughter-in-law in mind. I still haven’t started my tracing yet but I hope to do so by the first of the year.
I look forward to seeing it, if you feel up to posting it in the Flikr group. Hope you don’t have to do too many adjustments
You know what kinda grumped me about the Dahlia? It goes up to 26, so WHERE are the plus size models???? I loved the model they used for the Myrtle – I thought the plus sized version looked WAY better than the straight size! I want to know how the Dahlia will look on women like me. Too much to ask of Colette Patterns?
Good question! The only thing that I could think of what that this pattern was supposed to come out in the spring and maybe they weren’t into plus size models at that time…
Yes I would have liked to see more of a size range as well!!
I like it. I brought this pattern with the sneak peek code.I am waiting for the sewalong and for the perfect fabric lol and still learning my lovely old brother sewing machine.
Wow, this design has everything that is unflattering on me. Raglan sleeves are bad for my narrow, sloping shoulders, bust gathers are bad for my size 36JJ bust, the waist inset draws attention to my thick waist. To my eye, the dress looks very frumpy on the models. This is the second frumpy design in a row from Colette. I hope this isn’t the direction they are going into.
I agree, this is incredibly unflattering and frumpy-looking.
I like it! I bought it yesterday but stupidly decided on the printed version so I have to wait for shipping to Oz… Kind of wishing I had picked the PDF now!!! I can’t comment much on your adjustments as I am not similarly shaped, though it will be interesting to see if I need an FBA after you said maybe not… Great job!
I ordered the pattern quickly as well but now I’m a bit worried about making it though. I tend to have problems with the back being to big and I also am short waisted. When I buy rtw I do better buying petite sizes for tops. Hm, I have to think about this. Maybe I will do the sew along.
Do you think the dress could be made out of a knit or Ponte fabric?
Thanks for your review. It is always so helpful to hear what others are saying about patterns.
With the back too big – have you tried cutting a smaller size back bodice? Sometimes big busted ladies can get away with doing that (instead of a FBA). But the short waist will mean you’ll have to shorten the top, I would think
I think it probably could work in a knit! Just use fold-over elastic in place of the bias binding and get rid of the zip.
I am equally excited by this pattern 🙂 I fell in love when I saw the sneak peek, checked my stash to make sure I didn’t have anything similar, then bought it at the 20% off, printed it, and traced it all on Monday night, lol. By Tuesday I cut a full muslin since I’d never made any Colette dresses before (normally I would just do the bodice, but I didn’t know how much ease they have built in) – it looked ok, but I had to fix some of my usual adjustments. I pinned out at the raglan seams because I have a hollow chest, and thought it would be good – thank heavens I decided to make another bodice muslin to check the changes! I ended up working on this muslin for several hours yesterday and by the time I was done I was really surprised at the comparison of my new pattern piece and the original. I had to drop the length at the raglan on the front by almost 3 inches and taper in from there making a new angle for the raglan sleeve. I am making the sleeved version with the full skirt, but I made all my adjustments to just the front and back bodice without messing with the sleeves. I started with the size 16 according to my measurements, and I ended up with a size 10 width, size 16 boob gathers, and at least 1.5″ shorter than a size 0 length. And that’s with me bringing in the neckline because I didn’t want it so wide. I know not everyone is built the same, but I think lots of people are going to have similar issues with fitting it.
Anyway, I also still love the pattern. I had to do a lot of work, but I know it will pay off in the long run because I fully plan on making an arsenal of these 🙂 The one I’m working on now is rayon and I’m adding a lining – I’ve already got it cut out and I can’t wait to make it up!
Holy smokes, that is a lot of changes! Any chance you could post a picture of the changes you had to make to the bodice? To be honest I’m not 100% sure how I’m going to end up fixing it when I do the sleeved version. I know I’ll need to shorten the bodice (front and back) and move the bust gathers, but other than that… I like the design and I want it to work!
Sure thing 🙂 I haven’t had a chance to take pictures yet, but I will soon. It’s crazy how different my pattern looks from the original. Definitely worth it though.
Hey! What a fun color combo!!! Love the gold edge… I think I bought the pattern about as fast as you, but I opted for the printed version so now I have to wait. OH! The AGONY!! (Truth be told, it likely will sit on my shelf for a while, holiday queue et all!) Looking at your dress and comparing it to the models’ dresses at Colette, it appears that their sleeveless version does a similar thing, too. Could it be a cut (pattern style) and fabric combo? Perhaps a “solid” (translate: supportive et/or structural) lining in the front bodice would help give more shape/body? Instead of a few gathers, perhaps more aggressive ruching? I don’t know. It’s a mystery and when I have my precious pattern, I will play and report! Thank you for your great reviews! Wonderfully helpful (and fun!). Have a blissfully happy day! 🙂
Thinking (and reading) about it, I think the bodice needs the tension of the sleeves to hold it up and out – there isn’t enough of a difference between the two versions to account for that lack of tension, so I’m not sure a lining or more structured fabric would help, at least for the strapless version. I’m going to try another version and shorten the whole bodice, and see how that goes.
I’d love to hear how yours goes, once it finally arrives!
There is something really wrong with the bodice. It is too wide in the upper bodice. If you put sleeves in it looks like they would be uncomfortable. Fabric needs to be taken out in the length as well. The problem with adjusting the upper bodice is that it requires so many other adjustments to the shoulders and arm hole, which then causes adjustments to the sleeve. Play around with adjustments in muslin and taking out from the center back and front too see what that does. Before working on the bust adjustment.
I agree the bodice definitely needs length taken out (I think the waistband height will be fine when it’s being held up by the bodice). I don’t think I need much taken out of the center back once I shorten that, but I agree I could do with taking a reasonably amount from the upper front bodice. I will have a play – but I’ll do so in a drapier fabric than the muslin, which doesn’t translate that well to the finished garment.