I wanted to start this blog with a bit of a disclaimer. I’m not trying to pattern bash Bettine, but more explain the difficulties that I face with this pattern and my body. There’s not a ton of voices that discuss fitting issues for apple shaped bodies, and I really want to help with that. Tilly’s pattern’s are really cute, and her marketing is spot on. From all accounts I’ve seen online so far, I seem to be the only person that has had any issues.
I hate making muslins! I know I’m supposed to do it, and that it pays off in the end, but when it comes down to it, I’m stupidly busy. This dress was supposed to be a quick project, and I was stoked, so I didn’t think I’d need a muslin because I’m fairly close to all the measurements, and after all it’s supposed to be rather loose fitting. But in the end it took a couple of weeks and I’m not very happy with the outcome.
While it doesn’t look too awful if I’m standing up, It’s very restrictive when sitting. I don’t fully understand why – normally I have to take ease out with my hip-lacking apple shape.
I also found issue with the top front pattern piece. While I’m all for a nice loose bust area, the front pattern and back pattern piece are the same size with different necklines. If you wanted the same amount of fullness from front to back you would need something to accommodate the sweater puppies, yes? Tilly is on the opposite spectrum of bust size that I am, so this probably worked fine for her and her similarly shaped model. My E cups didn’t agree with the drafting though. I really don’t know how to do a full bust adjustment without a dart, but I guess I need to learn! I would recommend checking the fit if you’re over a c cup though.
I don’t know if I’ll attempt to resew this dress. Word from my Partner Brian is that even if it did fit well, it’s not the best look for me. I have to say I agree. He did commend me on my finishing techniques though, so at least there’s that. I really wished this would have worked for me, but they can’t all be winners right?
Pattern name: Bettine
Size range (with measurements): From a bust size of 30 to 44.
What size did you make?: The largest size, which according to the sizing for Tilly & The Buttons, is a size 8. (Bust- 44inch, Waist- 38inch, Hips-47 inch)
What are your measurements, height, and body type? 5’8″, solid size 16, apple shaped.
What adjustments did you make and how long did they take? None, I decided to try the pattern as is, because it was close enough to my measurements.
What was the construction process like? Did the instructions make sense to you? Construction was straight forward, simple pattern so it kind of came intuitively to me. I didn’t reference them often.
How do you like the pattern’s fit? Do you think the design works well for your particular body shape? I don’t think this pattern works with my body shape out of the envelope. Although I dig the kimono sleeves, where the waist falls and the cut of the skirt really make me look much more “round” than I am in side profile. Sitting is also nearly impossible with the cut of the skirt.
Will you make the pattern again? If so, what fit or design changes will you make? I might use the bodice to draft a kimono style tee, but I don’t think that skirt and I will ever meet again.
Do you have any advice on this pattern for other curvy sewers? Are there any resources (blog posts, fitting books, tutorials) that helped you sew this piece up? Make a muslin, and be cautious of the cut of the skirt if you carry more weight in your middle. Also, some kind of full bust adjustment is need for those of us who are chestier.
Size Range (1-5): 1 – Straight sized pattern.
Instructions (1-5): 5 – Easy and straightforward with helpful photos.
Construction Process (1-5): 5 – Everything lined up well, didn’t have issues in constructing it.
Final Fit (1-5): 2 – It fits as in much as it doesn’t look too terrible while standing, but there’s a ton of fit issues with this pattern and my body.
Overall Rating (1-5): 3.25
Has anyone else tried the Bettine? Did you have better luck than me?
When Tilly took part in the Great British Sewing Bee, she was very cute but didn’t last more than a few Episodes. She did not know her stuff well enough to complete her own blouse on time and with professionalism. However, that really made her famous and so she wrote her book, which again is cute and well marketed. I wonder how can anyone draft a pattern without formal training and in depth knowledge of how things are actually made? Sorry for the winge but I worked in the textiles industry since my early 20ies and started my pattern business 4 years ago, so 25 years of drafting and collections at couture and ready to wear level before I even started. Too many Indie designers without any training give everyone a bad name. Shame really because it’s great that our voices can all be heard without having massive start up capital like the big 4.
Sorry I thought it would be useful to post a pic too!
Great review and I have enjoyed reading all of the comments. So interesting how patterns can divide people so much. I am a definite curvy pear with measurements at 43-36-49 and I made Bettine recently, a couple in fact and I actually loved it. I think part of it comes down to personal style and choice, just as it does when buying ready to wear clothes.
I love the casual look of the Bettine, and whilst I know that tulip skirts don’t work for me, I just straightened it as I’ve said in my review. My sleeves were shorter on this one too but that was because of the width of the fabric! There hasn’t been a pattern I have tried yet that I haven’t had to alter in some way, whether indie or otherwise!
I am not a Tilly-champion at all, but I think it’s really important to be able to put across a point of view even if it differs to the majority of commentators and I find some of the comments about not being sucked in, an elastic sack and why does she think she can design for others a little one sided.
Yes, most indie patterns are quite expensive, the Bettine is no different but I am happy to pay more for the clear instructions, the heavier pattern paper and dare I say it, yes the marketing and design of the packaging. I like treating myself to a pattern like that, it is one of the things I love about Indie patterns. Call me crazy but I’m pretty sure it’s my money and my choice 🙂
Some shapes and styles work for some people and not for others. There are lots of RTW things I won’t buy because they’ll look terrible on me, likewise there are certain patterns I won’t try because I know they’re not for me. It’s difficult to expect designers to be all things to all people.
Tilly’s book is the reason I got into sewing, and yes sometimes I have to grade up but I love the style and I’m quite happy to do so!
I really enjoyed reading your review Paige and am off to read your blog now for some more honest reviews. I love it when I find another younger, curvy sewing blogger as there aren’t that many out there!
“Drafting” a dress pattern that’s intended for an adult woman that has 1) no bust shaping and 2) no differentiation between the front and back pattern pieces is…something…
And I think the fact that she has only been sewing a handful of years and has no formal training makes people question her ability to actually design patterns and not, as you put it, suck people in. With the niceness and prettiness of it all.
It is great that you love the pattern with your adjustments; I’m sure others do too! But I think for a lot of us, we have seen TOO MUCH skirting the issue when sewers have fails with Indie patterns. It almost always is either 1) assumed to be a personal fail or 2) swept under the rug as ‘no big deal’ or 3) prefaced with apologies and platitudes lest the blogger suffer the repercussions of ‘bad mouthing’ an Indie pattern publicly.
Thanks for the compliment! As with any review, this is just my personal experience with the pattern. I’m glad it worked for you, and I’m glad you loved it! I wanted to so bad!
Thank you for this review! I’ve been staring at the Bettine for awhile now trying to decide if it would look like a potato sack on anyone with curves. It looks fantastic on Tilly, but I had a sneaking suspicion the fit would not be as good in the larger sizes. You’ve confirmed it!
I’ve read through all of the comments here and I understand that Tilly is supposed to be addressing the newbie sewist market but really why would a curvy woman purchase one of her patterns? Besides the fact that she drafts for her figure and doesn’t cater to the plus size market, there is also the fact that with a little effort and a search on either Etsy or eBay you can find the original pattern from the Big 4 with better instructions and proper drafting.
Though Paige, there are two wonderful things that came from this review. One – you explained why it didn’t work for you which started an amazing conversation about fit issues and how to fit a curvy body. Two – you gave us a means to have a civil conversation about indie patterns and how they don’t work for our bodies.
I’ve watched just about every new indie pattern come along and rode none of those trains. The reason being that I know I’m not their target audience so why give up my hard earned dollars. I have to admit that I’m tired of fighting that battle and so I ignore them and move on. I love to sew. I love to make wonderful, fashionable and on-trend garments for my plus size body what I don’t love is wasting my time and fabric to line someone else’s pockets.
It’s nice that you could find a way to be honest about the essence of what you were addressing without being unkind. Well done.
Thank you. I have been trying to work out how to make the woven dress I want for a few weeks. I saw the Bettine pattern after realising I wanted pockets like that on my dress. Since then I’ve been struggling, on one hand, surely I should get a proper pattern from someone who knows what they’re doing rather than winging it and self drafting, on the other hand, I really wasn’t convinced it would be flattering on anyone much bigger than Tilly. I have been searching the web for someone more me sized to see it on. Until today I had just come to the conclusion that the arms are awful, they look awful on most people, like an early attempt at a refashin from a charity shop. But now I feel happy that just because it has pockets I like, I don’t have to buy it when the rest of it screams no at me. I will continue looking until I find something I like or summon up the courage to go down the self drafting route.
Don’t feel the need to apologise for an honest review. What you’re commenting on is a company’s product not a person.
I’ve read through all the comments. I really appreciated your review and would love to read more honest – and critical – reviews and comments. By critical, I’m using that in the proper sense, so not just meaning negative criticism but also constructive. I absolutely agree with your comments. I bought one particular Indie and my criticism of the pattern was a lone voice in a sea of sycophantic praise – I can’t believe that I was the only one who had problems. I didn’t get any negative comments in return, though. I do post everything I complete, wadder or not, but I don’t complete everything I try. There is a tendency to think of ‘it must be me’ especially if any changes have been made – it’s not the original design so perhaps I’ve caused this problem.
I’ve also seen photos advertising patterns where the fit leaves a lot to be desired.
I don’t fit into the demographic for Tilly’s patterns and haven’t considered buying any and won’t now.
Thank you.
“By critical, I’m using that in the proper sense, so not just meaning negative criticism but also constructive.”
This. People don’t seem to quite grasp that being critical is NOT “mean”. Yes, it can be, but they are not synonymous. And when a business (Indie pattern companies are a business!!!!!) wants your money in exchange for goods and services; you have a right to expect a decent product/service. And if they fail to deliver, you have a right to discuss that.
The sad thing is, it makes me really leery to try MANY of them. Especially the popular blogger patterns.
Yep. I agree. But as you say not everyone grasps that concept.
Looked at your pictures…I have similar issues with fit , and also a dread of making muslins, so some things I just automatically adjust on any pattern before I start sewing with my good fabric , like sleeve length , and bust depth .
For instance , you know you carry your fullness in the front of your torso , so if you add a curve (like a bell shape) to your bodice waist seam ( from nothing at side seam to maybe 2 inches at center front,) your bust will take up the extra fullness. This is just a simple correction for a very simple pattern, of course this varies with what you are working on .
I also curve my front waist skirt seams down about 2 inches at center front, since my front waist is lower than my back waist . Otherwise my front skirt sits against my legs instead of skimming my body. I found this correction in a book called Fantastic Fit For Every Body by Gale Grigg Hazen. I find the book a very realistic method of pattern correction.
There is a great tutorial on adding bust fullness on garments with no darts on Louise Cutting’s YouTube site.
And don’t forget , you can “cut outside the lines” and add width to your seam allowance as it’s easier to take in than let out !
Keep in mind that a pattern is merely a starting point , I think with a little revision ( and a nice knit fabric) your dress pattern could work for you. Hope this helps , thanks
This is actually a really great example of why Plus sizes start with their own blocks instead of just grading up from a smaller block.
I’m not a Plus size, but I have a couple of Plus size friends who sew. They tend to stick to the Big 4 and Burda bc they have the best results. Sometimes there’s a surplus of sacklike patterns, but there’s also quite a few beautiful, well drafted pieces.
Good luck and thank you for your honest review 🙂
I hate the spreading of the Big4 as awful. Yeah, no. Every pattern may not be great (and seriously, is every Indie pattern great? no), but they are consistent and you know what you’re going to get.
Let me get this right, you’re saying that this pattern includes NO bust shaping whatsoever?
That is appalling. I honestly don’t know what makes Tilly think she knows how to design patterns. It’s not the same as drafting something to fit yourself, which she does moderately well. Bodies are complicated 3-D shapes and pattern design is an incredibly complicated process to allow garments to fit a variety of shapes and sizes. Failure to allow for breasts seems to me to be a very basic error.
It’s interesting to me that her most popular pattern – the Coco – is made from a jersey fabric and is not intended to be close-fitting. There’s a lot of leeway built into that design. But a simple dress like Bettine from a woven fabric appears to be beyond her capabilities.
As you say in the introduction, she’s great at marketing. That doesn’t qualify her to be a pattern designer.
I have yet to really like a Tilly pattern. The wrap skirt (Miette?) is only one I find remotely interesting.
But not enough to buy it.
If you’re interested in that pattern, there’s some really similar ones from the 70’s. I made one a long time ago as one of my first projects.
I enjoyed your review very very much. I am at , age 63, very aware that this brand of patterns is not for my demographic! I would have looked great 40 years ago in this style.
Do do love current and somewhat funky styles and I do love to sew! But I am very particular about what I choose to sew and certainly have made my share of wrong pattern choices.
I have reviewed a few patterns for the Collective in the past and have always chosen to review the patterns that have worked well for my gifted and aging body and that I loved. I have not reviewed my waders. Maybe I should rethink this stance.
Maybe we learn from others better when we see what went wrong.
I agree that glowing reviews that are lies or embellished do not do anyone any good.
I love to see reviews of what went wrong! Sometimes the pattern is the problem, sometimes the fabric choice, sometimes the construction, but there’s always something to learn from it.
I would love to hear more from you on what doesn’t work. I am 59 years old and have been sewing since I was about 7. For years and years I had found 4 or 5 basic patterns that, I guess in looking back, were blocks for me. I could change and refashion them with confidence and pleasure. I was pear shaped with a very flat bust. Well, about 7 years ago menopause etc. hit with a vengeance! I am an apple now with a A-B cup. I want stylish, quirky clothes but don’t want to look like I am still trying to be twenty. So, I’m dealing with all kinds of new realities(well, not so new…). There is the issue of now being “curvy” and also “old”. Even measurements that are the same have moved with gravity!
What I love about this site is that I have gotten good advice and ideas on all kinds of ‘outside the mold’, not-ready-for-ready-to-wear clothes to make. Most people don’t fit the mold in lots of ways. This has been a great, creative, safe place. I says, Bring on the wadders!
Susie Cupcake, so well said. I just turned 60 and have different measurements but these are my issues as well.
No need for a disclaimer. If you didn’t like the pattern, you didn’t like the pattern. It ain’t for everybody. Remember, most folks post their garments when they come out right, not when the come out wrong!
I don’t get it. Why oh why would anyone pay that kind of money for a sack with an elastic waist? You could free cut the thing if you really wanted to wear a dress like that. The fact it has been “graded up” to a large size means nothing at all.
Well, I think I know the answer- this dress is available in any number of easily attainable 1980s patterns because the style was a staple of the time. But the glamour of indie, of Tilly, of the blog parade marching down Internet Avenue (love that!!) all can turn our heads.
It may be Indie, it may be by Tilly, it may be, oh, jasmine scented, whatever, but it’s still a freaking sack with an elastic waist. Come on people, don’t get sucked in!
See I don’t mind paying for convince. I’m one of those weirdos who actually prefer pdf patterns and how if I want to reprint something I can. But I don’t like paying for something with drafting issues. Don’t forget that even the big four patterns are priced similarly, save by the grace of a good joann’s pattern sale. I will admit I may have gotten sucked in by marketing on this one, but there are some indie patterns I love.
Also, now that I see it on Paige, it looks like a less thoughtful version of the April Rhodes Staple dress, if that’s even possible. Which itself is basically a sack with elastic thread shirring at the waist. At least that pattern is larger in the front around the bust, and larger in the back around the hips and butt, which it should be.
Also the sleeves are an awkward length for kimono sleeves on the Bettine.
One thing I’m learning to do lately is look realllly hard at the line drawings for things like bust and hip shaping, but it’s a work in progress.
Love your honesty, Mrs. C.
*chortle* Thanks Bunny. I am not attacking anyone though, I just think we all get a stars in our eyes over things that are well marketed, but if there is no real substance to it and it turns into a case of overpromise and underdeliver, then we need to vote with our feet. I don’t get sucked into patterns, because I am deeply cynical about them, but fabric, and books, now there’s a whole other story so I get it!
It must be some deep psychological thing we all share that fame equates to authority – otherwise there would be no celebrity endorsements. But it doesn’t – it just means that people who have the knack for marketing what they do can get ahead. Many of our Indie designers are doing great work, albeit maybe not always at the plus size end, but I don’t think we can let our guard down or get lulled into a sense of security that our needs are being properly met, just because there seems to be more out there.
Wow, two interesting blog posts today (also Gorgeous Fabrics) I think it is so important to be honest – of all places, here, on the Curvy Collective. So thank you! It is a very simple dress that will not suit everyone. I love the colour on you and you looks lovely! Clearly we need an independent sewing pattern designer who understands how a body wears clothes over size 12. There is a market niche to fill. Anyone?…
Hi Janet…I’m trying! But my tendency to favour the “lagenlook” isn’t everybodys cup of tea….Please read my comment to Sarah further down…
I have 2 new patterns to publish in the next fortnight to add to the 5 in my catalogue, http://www.pearlredmoon.com and pattern shop at boho-banjo-art-to-wear.myshopify.com
Pearl in Australia
Thanks for the honest review. I’ve tried a few of Tilly’s patterns and *none* of them have looked good on me. Not one. So now I just don’t buy them!
I’m really glad you posted this before my “its too pricey” wore down. Thank you! I would have to hack the bejesus outta this to fit 🙁
Pretty color!
My God, Hallelujah! We are like body shape twins, and I have a #$%@*$&%^ horrible time fitting any pattern. It isn’t helping me while I am trying to learn to fit. I should send you pics of my M 6696 muslin, because I don’t even know where to start.
I actually have yet to attempt that pattern but it’s in my stash. If you do have a similar body shape to mine though, I nearly always need to add an extra inch or two of ease in the waist, do a FBA, and lower the dart using the box method, sometimes I need a full back adjustment as well.
luckily this one comes with cup sizes- but around the waistband needs more room. there are all the darts, and i dont know if I should get rid of them or do a waistline slash and spread method or maybe could I just add to the side seams? ack. im frozen with indecision.
Have you tried anything? I added to the waistband at the side seams with no issues (http://wp.me/p4gSyG-ea), just did less back gathers.
you did!? alright, i will try that. i was scared and frozen and my muslin has been balled up on my sewing table for over a month. i love yours, thank you.
I did the same thing with my gathered version one – pleated less at the back and cut a bigger waistband. I’ve also made the straight skirt version but foolishly didn’t trust my instincts that ‘my size’ in the straight skirt needed to be bigger – I need smooshing room when I sit down! Anyway I’m in the middle of fixing it because I do need the waistband to stay the same size, because of my swayback, so I think I’ll need to slash and spread to get a curved waistband. Which is easy but I’ll need to unpick serging so I’m avoiding it….
There is a LOT of room in the back, and I found that worked to my advantage when fudging the waist measurements! As long as your waistband and skirt line up, you can do more or less gathering on the top as you need, on the fly.
All of my M6696s are here https://craftastrophies.wordpress.com/tag/m6696/ I don’t know if that will help you but ALL of them have that ‘fudging’ with the back and the waistband sizing.
I used to hate unpicking overlocking (serging) too but I found, if you unpick the threads in the order: 2nd needle, first needle: it all then comes out beautifully.
I’ve made 6696 and added 3″ to the waistband. I didn’t change either the bodice or the skirt pieces as the bodice is gathered and can be gathered less and still works even with the extra 3″ on the waist. On the skirt back, the centre pleats are meant to meet the centre back (I think that’s correct – it’s been a while since I made it!) so I just pleated those to make them fit the new waistband leaving the others exactly as they were meant to be. So you can add at least 3″ to the waistband without messing with the other bits! I hope that makes sense! :o)
im doing the straight waist version, no gathered waists when it is my widest spot, ya know?
I haven’t made the straight version yet but, honestly, the gathered one looks great on people (ie me) with bigger waists! ;o)
I wanted to address the people who thought I was being too polite. I really did just assume that because nearly none of the other reviewers admitting to any fitting problems, that it must be just something weird about my body shape, or fabric choice. I think the fact that so many people are agreeing with me now brings up some bigger issues about conveying how you really feel about a pattern in your review. I know that there’s a big indie pattern blog parade that comes down internet avenue every time there’s a new release. I think it’s possible people are letting things slide and giving positive reviews to not miss out on being featured on blogs and instagram. I would love to see more critical reviews, especially for plus size men and women!
Paige, your observations and musings are spot-on.
It is very common indeed for us home sewers to blame *ourselves* when a pattern is a disaster, but in reality, the blame too often lies squarely on the shoulders of the producer/promoter of the pattern. A woven-fabric garment cut on the straight-of-grain and with an identical back and front is NEVER going to ‘fit’ anyone who has more than a hint of curves in any direction, and should not, IMO, even sold for such – it is not ‘fit for purpose’.
xox
“…a big indie pattern blog parade that comes down internet avenue every time there’s a new release”- LFMAO!!
This is maybe one of the funniest, yet true, comments, I’ve ever read on a sewing blog. ????
And so many bloggers want to sit with the Grandmarshall or ride the anchor floats…
This is a great point! I understand the enthusiasm and the wish to support your favorite bloggers as well as to go along with what feels like a fun community event. But it’s been a few years now and it’s time to put an end to this thing where indie pattern designers are above criticism. They are businesses. Some of them put out some good products and yes they have very detailed sew-alongs that are great for beginners. They also sell some very unprofessional and flawed patterns, often very simple and lacking in detail, for very high prices. We shouldn’t be teaching beginning sewers that they have to spend so much money in order to “fit in” or that these patterns are automatically better than the professionally drafted, highly detailed, cheaper patterns offered by Butterick or Burda.
I’m saying this as someone who has spent too much money on patterns and books from my favorite bloggers that turned out to be sub-par or not right for me. I still buy indie sometimes — I actually have the Bettine pattern and like it. But if it’s got basic issues that make it unfit for larger people, people should know.
Just here to say that this line made me spit my morning coffee: a big indie pattern blog parade that comes down internet avenue every time there’s a new release
Hallelujah! At last, that rare thing, an honest review. You are clearly *not* pattern-bashing, in fact you are bending over backwards to be as nice as you can be about a pattern that is simply horrid for women of size. The words ‘sack’ or ‘sausage-skin’ will – sadly and inevitably – come to mind when a ‘style’ like this encases the feminine curves of a voluptuously-beautiful body in such a graceless way.
Your review is honest and I admire that it is really helpful! I have steered clear of all Tilly’s patterns because Tilly herself is tiny and don’t think plus sizes are on her radar. I too hate doing muslins and I understand you being upset at using your lovely linen!
Please don’t apologize for disliking a pattern! It’s so unnecessary and no one would think to do it for Big 4 or Burda.
Off my soapbox…
I agree that this pattern could work with some adjustments but then you’d basically be re-drafting the pattern and is it worth that?? I think that’s the part you have to decide.
I do like the color a ton <3
I won’t be redrafting it. There are other patterns that suit me better. I like to keep things civil as far as my comments go, and I know that indie companies have FIERCE brand loyalist, so I just didn’t want to get torn to shreds. 😉
as a newb, big 4 work best for my skill and size range. and they are affordable. i bought a few 20$ indies and wont be going back.
I think that sort of fan loyalty is based on a (many times) false notion of friendship. We sew because we aren’t cookie cutters and what works beautifully for someone looks awful on another — how disappointing to be faulted for honesty in that way. I don’t understand this need to “stick up” for somebody because somebody else said their pattern wasn’t sized correctly. Silly and embarrassing. I will say, though, that if you can salvage anything about that dress, do so. The green looks great on you!
HIya! I’m also an apple and made an 8 all over and the result was horrendous for my shape, tulip skirt plus blousey top plus high neckline was just all wrong and I never even hemmed it. I’ve found that while I love Tilly’s patterns they generally don’t love me! I might try again with a knit and lower the neckline.
If a pattern has a front and back identical except for the neckline, this should send a warning. If a pattern measures 40-40-40, this should send a warning. Women with a 40 inch bust can measure (side seam to side seam) 23 in front and 17 in back, 20 and 20 in the waist and then the fullness shifts to the back with 22 in back and 18 in the front. Making up a flat pattern like this causes the top half side seams to swing forward to allow the bust to sit well and then will shift back for the butt to sit well. You can see you side seams have done just that.It is a shame.
yep, that’s one of the big red flags I first noticed. I read a lot of reviews before hand and no one had anything negative to say beyond the skirt being a bit too short. I was surprised at how ill fitting it turned out.
This is so helpful. At some point I thought to look at my measurements more closely. My 44″ hips are more like 19″ front and 25″ back! Knowing that changed how I fit the next straight skirt that I made and I *loved* how it turned out.
If we could map and graph our bodies, we could make better patterns. If you make a muslin in gingham and use 1 inch seams so they can be let out where you need them, then mark all the seam lines in ink and take the muslin apart, you have a better idea of what you need to change on the paper before you cut. Then that can be used as a master to place over new patterns to see where they differ before you cut those too.
How did you do the adjustments?
Did a “full butt adjustment” aka adding a wedge to cover my backside and the easiest part and something I’ve adapted for other skirt patterns…cut a 16 front with 18 back. It’s been working so well.
It never occured to me to cut different sizes for the front & the back!
SEE! Exactly! It was like an epiphany. LOL! I’m sure there are some other adjustments that could be made to mimic that, or that are more “correct”, but I was just consistently having too much fabric in front and ta-da!
I have been trying to figure out this puzzle lately. The problem is that I don’t think I’m actually sure where the side seams are supposed to sit! I was actually trying to measure that yesterday while altering a pattern and it was a real struggle. Any tips?
If you have a pair of pants that have nice side seams you can use them as a guide. Side seams on bodices usually line up with the center of the lower armhole and the side seam of your bra. You can have a good friend draw lines down your skin as she looks at you in a side view. Also you can hang a weight on a string from your waist and then mark along on the muslin or grab that good friend again and have her do it. If you are alone, pin the string to your waist and make it long enough to step on the weight (like a key) with your foot to hold it steady. I have tried using a measuring tape like this but it likes to twist.
Thanks!! I need to experiment with this when I get some time.
Bing! Lightbulb going off. Thank you! Next is to learn how to make those adjustments.
Thanks for the honest review. I would have to grade this one up so I wasn’t really considering it, but I do like what is supposed to be the casual style of it so I’m keeping my eye out for something similar but plus friendly.
In regards to hip ease (and maybe you already know this, but it took me a while to figure it out), when making a more slim fitting skirt from a woven, I have to use my sitting down hip measurement. By that I mean that I take the measurement around my biggest area while sitting down, which accommodates some of the apple-shaped belly smoosh that happens when we sit (and adds about 4 inches to my standing hip measurement). Then I figure out how much ease I need on top of that for the skirt to not be tight or pulling when sitting (I’d say 2 inches minimum). I then compare that extra 6 inches to the finished garment measurements. All that is to say that as pattern makers grade up, I think they only account for increase in size and NOT increase in smooshiness, so we have to do that ourselves. If they have a skirt with 2″ of ease in a size 8, they think that 2″ of ease in a size 20 will also be sufficient, and I have found that to just not be true. As we get bigger. things more around more, thus requiring more ease. I recently experienced this with the southport dress (and I think a few others did too). Hope that helps!
It’s not just the “smoosh” factor that requires different grading at larger sizes–it’s the fact that 2″ of ease is a lot more ease proportionally on a size 8 than it is on a size 18.
Let’s say that you’ve got a pattern maker whose grading is to add 2″ of ease at the hips on all sizes, and let’s say that her size 8 pattern equates to 38″ hips (finished garment = 40″) and her size 18 equates to 48″ hips (finished garment = 50″. In the size 8, ease is going to make up 5% of the garment measurement, while in the size 18, ease will only make up 4% of the garment measurement. So, you’re actually getting less ease, proportionally, in the larger sizes.
Good point, Michelle! I hadn’t thought of it that way!
It’s sort of the reverse issue of how many patterns end up with “linebacker shoulders” in larger sizes. You can’t simply grade up every seamline the same amount for all sizes and expect it to properly fit everyone.
I’m so glad to hear you say that, Michelle! I had suspected as much and posted something along those lines on a few people’s blogs/ photos of finished makes where they were complaining about having to narrow the shoulders and the response always seems to be “oh no, I just have super narrow shoulders”. I keep thinking to myself “hmm, it can’t just be that every plus size sewist has super narrow shoulders for her size” because I have read very few reviews where people haven’t had to narrow the shoulders in the larger sizes of patterns. Now, if its drafted for a plus size block, hopefully that is a different story!
This is really helpful, thank you!
I should add that this works for me and I developed my method through trial and error, its not some sort of official sewing technique I read about in the official sewing book! I hope it helps you too, but of course as they say on the interwebs, YMMV.
But it is an official technique – the narrowing of shoulders can be found in most “good” fitting books! You just picked it up through trial and error or experience!
I agree, Carolyn, in regards to the shoulders. The method I refer to is the method in my first comment- taking into account my sitting hip circumference and then adding ease instead of trusting pattern makers to include the appropriate amount of sitting ease (though that could very well be in a good fitting book too, I should probably buy some!). The way comments are ordered is confusing! As far as narrowing shoulders, that is actually something I should probably do some research on because I haven’t actually made that alteration to patterns yet, and I think I might need to in some cases.
The taking a seated measurement is in Barbara Dechert’s fitting book. She gives a list of measurements plus size/curvy women should take. It’s a good book to own!
Thanks! I will look for it!
I don’t think this is anywhere near “pattern bashing,” in fact I really wish there were more honest pattern reviews like this for indie patterns. Not every pattern is a winner, and not every pattern works on every body or for every level of ability. Reviews that just put forth a real review with the good and the bad are much more helpful I think.
I second the suggestion to turn it into a top if you can. And thank you so much for being honest in your review–both sewers and pattern companies really need this kind of honest feedback.
I made up the Bettine this weekend but I used a jersey fabric. I’m a UK size 14 on the bottom, 16 on the top and also a firm apple shape but I really love the end result. The dress is super comfortable in a knit fabric and I think is actually quite flattering on me! I made it up in the same size as I would have in a woven fabric but I would most definitely need a bust adjustment considering the fit of it in jersey!
That’s interesting that your new to cut a larger skirt size as an apple shape. Is that something that you do with most patterns? I think this would fit better in a knit, but I don’t think I’d “like” the fit even really then.
It is a pretty color on you. But, I can see what you mean about restrictive. There’s no ease for the back side at all! For this style, there should have been gather like on the front it seems. Thanks for the review, I will steer clear of this pattern.
I had trouble with this pattern, too – even though I made a muslin. The fit was terrible, especially on the skirt. I ended up drafting a simple A-line skirt to replace the original skirt pieces. I also shortened the sleeves considerably and cut the neckline for a smaller size, & finished both with bias tape instead of facings.
This is only photo I have of the dress in the wild. I swear the neckline isn’t crooked — it’s just my purse pulling on it, haha.
I’m a pear (44-38-50), so I did have to grade up the hips. But then, I generally do. That’s why I made the muslin in the first place.
I agree with TinaD – there is something “off” in the way Tilly’s patterns are graded up. The exaggerated skirts typical of her line (whether a mod A-line or a tulip shape) seem to be almost comical in proportion in the largest size. I had trouble with the Coco dress, too, even though I had seen it work on a variety of body types. So, meh.
I like your a line skirt much better! At that point it’s not even really a tilly pattern though.
Thanks! Yeah, it doesn’t look anything like the Bettine, really. 🙂
As a person who designs for full figured women of apple and pear shapes its design RULE #1 I of a garment. If you don’t have an inverted waistline (such as what Tillys design blocks accomodate) fullness of fabric at the waist can only make you look larger. Its just simple reality if you put additional fullness at the widest point that circumference is going to be bigger!
Well done Sarah, your altered version of the dress looks great on you because you did the logical thing to make it flatter your figure type by taking the fullness out of the midriff
Pearl Moon
I liked the way the elastic waist was handled on the dress — from a construction standpoint, as it was so easy — but the way the casing was formed could have been bulky in a fabric other than the rayon challis I used. So my fabric choice was probably the key there, rather than any real skill in my drafting or fitting. But thank you all the same, haha! 🙂
Gosh that looks great on you!
Thank you! 🙂
I have been waiting to see a Bettine on a curvier figure, and you have confirmed my suspicions that Bettine does not work if you have curves. Sure, you can start doing fba’s and full backside booty adjustments etc, but then the pattern will lose its pull-over-ability and what is the use of spending money on a pattern which one has to adjust beyond recognition?
I’ve had trouble with both the skirts I’ve made by that designer. I wondered if there isn’t something a little off about the grading between sizes, so that scaling the pattern bigger does funny things to the ease. I appreciate the objective look at a pattern fail–I think sewers in the blogosphere trying to create a “good picture” garment tend to be kind of cavalier about fitting adjustments, so sometimes “I did a swayback adjustment” may actually mean “the back bodice was 3″ longer than the front and I don’t know whyyyyy! So I chopped it off.” Which would be useful stuff to know when you’re sewing the same pattern and you’ve discovered a 3″ discrepancy and think it must be something you did…
Can I ask which skirts? I kinda like one of them (the wrap) and wanted to know if you could share more about your experience if that’s one you made?
Thanks for considering!
Which wrap? I acquired a couple of early patterns–I made the Miette, ended up cutting masses off the hips, and never could get it to hang like a skirt rather than an apron I’m not wearing anything under. (The big double pockets pull to the front.) I started the Marielle, and it ended up buttoning the wrong way ’round and too small in the hip. I’m generally pretty good at directions, and I have perfectly average RTW size 10 hips (the bust is a different story), so I’m not sure what happened. I don’t want to sound like I’m dissing anybody, but I felt like those early patterns, at least, the designer designed for herself and then resized kind of…hypothetically.
I feel your pain. Hate it when you spend so much effort and time on a project and it doesn’t fit. Yeah, like you, I don’t feel like i have the time for a muslim. What I do instead is use something cheap from my stash. At least that way if it works, I’ll feel good about it and do it again in a better fabric. If it doesn’t, then I don’t feel so emotionally trashed when I toss it into the donate pile. I have donated so many flops this year that I wonder if I will eventually pass someone on the street wearing one of my wadders…..
Thanks for sharing your experience. I have wanted to buy this pattern and now I do not know what to do. However, it does look cute on you!
Good writeup, Paige! I’ve made two Bettines, both knits, although I’ve only blogged one… https://craftingarainbow.wordpress.com/2015/07/27/ponte-bettine/
Like you, I found the lacking of shaping was an issue! The front rides up because of the lack of darts, and the back of the skirt just isn’t shaped for lots of bootie. I thought that making it in a knit might solve some of that, but there are still issues. I actually wore my ponte one for the first time the other day (it’s been too hot) and sadly I’m going to have to pass it on… the skirt pulled down and back in the front, and up in the back, which was uncomfortable and unflattering. 🙁
Cute pattern, great marketing… not so great for curves!
I considered what this might look like in a knit, but decided I didn’t like it enough to convert it.
This is such a shame! It’s a lovely colour on you. Could you perhaps hack the skirt off and pop a couple of princess darts in the back (+/- waist darts in the front) to convert it to a top with those cute kimono sleeves? I have been avoiding the Bettine for the same reason, it’s a very cute dress if you are an A or B cup, but really don’t think it will work for the larger busted or curvy bottomed lady. A shame, but I suspect doing an FBA on this would lead to a very boxy look or require a lot of redrafting if you wanted to add a dart or two.
Thank you for this review! I’ve been eyeing this pattern because I’m still learning to sew and it looked simple enough… but I’m also curvy and a lot of the “simple” patterns aren’t very flattering on me. I’m learning that I’m going to need to suck it up and learn to do a FBA to make the things I’m wearing fit better.
I’ve learned the more simple a pattern is, the harder it is to fit on a plus sized body.
Also, excuse the wrinkles! It’s a linen ::sobs at the waste of good fabric::, and I really didn’t feel like ironing it since I wasn’t ever wear it again.
Thanks for your review! The color is great! Can you reuse some of the fabric into a top?
I’m going to try, I hate to waste a good linen!