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Pattern Review: Simplicity 8504

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Hi Readers!

Today, I have a pattern review and a first look at my most luxurious dress of the year — a silk velvet 1930’s dress!

Pattern Name: Simplicity 8504

Size Range: 12-20

What size did you make?  Graded up to about a 26/28

What are your…..

Measurements: 48-41-52
Body Shape: Pear-ish/Spoon
Height: 5’8
Bra size: 44D

source

What adjustments did you make and how long did they take?

I had to grade this pattern up as it only goes up to a size 20 (bust 42″).  This is a very curve friendly dress, so I’m not sure why they couldn’t expand the sizing up to at least a 24 (I mean, seriously…. WTF Simplicity?!).  It’s very difficult to find re-issued 1930’s patterns in plus sizes and I fell in love with this pattern as soon as it was released, so I resized it to fit me.  I’ve been grading up patterns for a long time, so this alteration didn’t take me much time at all.

I made this dress out of silk velvet (silk on rayon — not 100% silk velvet) and as a frugal sewist, I was very stubborn about buying the amount of fabric needed and I purchased about a yard (or more) less than suggested.  As I was working with a limited amount of fabric that also has a nap, I shortened the gored skirt pieces by about 1 1/2″ and pieced the corners.  It worked out just fine as that’s a very period sewing method and the skirt was not too short on me with the altered length.

Piecing on skirt side seam

I did not add much width to the sleeves, and instead added underarm gussets.  The sleeves are still full, but probably not as full on me as the pattern sample, so I might add more width in a future version of this dress to achieve the look of those glorious voluminous sleeves.

For some reason, I didn’t check the size of the collar, but it easily closes on my neck.  I just don’t prefer to have the top button buttoned, so I leave that open.

Faux smocking on sleeve

What was the construction process like? Did the instructions make sense to you?

This pattern is not a difficult one to sew, although it may look a bit intimidating to a beginner.  The instructions thoroughly explain the process and are easy to follow.  However, I added a bodice lining which is sewn to the facings.  I kept the facings for added structure and also as I didn’t want the lining to peek out at all.  The sleeves are partially lined, which is included in the pattern.  The sleeve lining helps to achieve the size and shape of the sleeves as the upper portion of the sleeves is gathered in rows, giving a cool faux smocking appearance.  My dress also has bound buttonholes, covered buttons, a self-drafted belt and covered buckle.  There is a belt pattern piece/instructions included with the pattern, but I didn’t use it.  I did a Hong Kong finish on the skirt seams and hand sewed the hem.  The hem is a bit wonky and not perfectly even as I sewed it really quickly to finish this dress in time for our family Christmas photo, so I’ll be taking it out and re-doing it soon.

Bodice lining

How did you like the pattern’s fit? Do you think that the design works well for your body shape?

I have steered clear of 1930’s patterns for a long time as most seemed too clingy and form-fitting for me.  In the past, I have widened skirts at the hips to get a fuller shape as I don’t like a close fit.  I looked at the sample on the pattern for a while and decided that the dress wasn’t going to hug me, so I didn’t alter the skirt pieces and was very happy with the final fit.  I do think the design works for me and I absolutely love wearing this dress.

Will you make this pattern again? If so, what fit or design changes will you make?

Yes, I’d definitely make this pattern again.  The only change from the alterations I’ve already made to the pattern would be to add some width to the sleeves so that I could have the fuller sleeves as designed.

Do you have any advice on this pattern for other curvy sewers? Are there any resources or materials that helped you sew this piece up?

I used this method for resizing this pattern.  I didn’t use any resources for any of the techniques that I used to sew this dress, but listed below are some tutorials that will help you learn more about these methods.

Pattern Rating (1-5):

Size range: 2
Instructions: 5
Construction process: 5
Final fit: 5
Overall rating: 4.25

Overall, I just love this pattern and my dress even more.  My only wish is that Simplicity would have added additional sizes to the size range for this pattern.  That’s just a huge thumbs down for me on the sizing and Simplicity 1930’s pattern re-issues as a whole for the limited sizes.  My patience for limited size ranges in Big 4 patterns is waning.   Other than that, I adore my dress and absolutely love wearing it and the alterations were well worth the effort.

Comments

  1. Tanya this dress is a wonder! The fabric is so perfect for you, it really sets off your beauty! Just wow! When I first saw your post it took my breath away. I think this dress is a perfect example of why we sew. Can you imagine ever finding anything this perfect in RTW?
    I’m not familiar with vintage patterns being reissued, so forgive me if this question sounds dumb. Do they change the sizing to modern standards? If so it’s REALLY outrageous they don’t expand the size range! The big four better get off their lazy butts before they shrink their customer base!
    Happy New Sew Year!

    • Thank you, Merry! I don’t think you’re ever find a dress like this in RTW, especially in plus size and all of the vintage ones are too small. The repro patterns from the big 4 are redrafted and graded for their current sizes. I don’t know why they couldn’t have this in larger sizes…

  2. Hi Tanya! As usual, you’ve made another stunner! This is just amazing. I have always passed on 30’s styles because I thought they required a different body shape than mine, but you have opened my eyes to the gorgeous possibilities of these vintage dress patterns. I love all the ‘dressmaker’ fine details that you put into the construction of your garments: the covered buttons, the Hong Kong finish, the lining fabric choice. Just magnificent! In the last picture I think you look so stunning and radiant in the deep blue color with your new hair style. Thank you!

  3. You look absolutely luscious in this dress! That blue velvet – WOW. Velvet is not easy to work with (I’m working on a velvet tunic myself right now) but you’ve done a beautiful job. You didn’t mention it, but is that smocking on the upper sleeve? Such an elegant touch!

    I always look forward to your reviews. You do beautiful work.

  4. As if the dress wasn’t already wonderful enough, you went and found the perfect stockings to go along with it. Absolutely agree re: limited sizes offered by TB4.

  5. what a beautiful dress, you really have the ability to choose fabrics and patterns that look amazing on you. I think that the length is perfect, it seems the same as of the model in the picture and also the sleeves I like very much as they are!

  6. Oh my goodness! Tanya you’ve out done yourself. And the work you put in to it is fantastic. I knew when I looked at the pattern which one you would choose. You love making belts and all the tiny details. Fantastic!

    • Thank you, Bonnie! At first, I was considering making the view with the puff sleeves and the long sleeve added, but then I saw a vintage 30’s silk velvet dress with those shorter sleeves and was so inspired!

  7. Really beautiful on you – -color, style, fit – everything!! The stockings are a nice touch too!

    (Agree completely with the Big 4 sizing!- Arggggg!!!

  8. Lovely! Lovely! Lovely!

    Great interpretation. Where did you find the old style nylons?

    Agree 100%on sizing…here.

    • Thank you! I got those stockings from American Duchess, but they aren’t available on there anymore. I also purchase back seam stockings from Sock Dreams. (and….arghhhh…. sizing!)

  9. I was so jealous of you in that dress! You look BEAUTIFUL. But you are truly beautiful on the inside too! I feel so blessed by you for the tutorial on grading!!!! Thank you so very much for that

  12. Stunning! Tanya, this is the best dress yet! I love everything about it and the fabric you chose. Can’t wait to see what you do next.

  19. The dress is gorgeous! We have all been complaining about sizing from the Big4 for so long, I doubt they will ever make the changes they need. I mean really, we are the largest part of the market (no pun intended), why wouldn’t they take that into consideration in their business plan? The stockings are a nice touch. Where did you get them?

    • Thank you, Mary! I really do wish that the Big 4 would just offer every pattern in a wide range of sizing. It doesn’t seem like it would be very difficult for them to do…

      My stockings are from American Duchess, but they aren’t available there anymore. I’ve also purchased back seam stockings from Sock Dreams.

  21. Ohh I love this dress on you! I’ve been looking at this pattern and just bought it on a big sale. Maybe instead of just admiring it, I may have to make it up. Thanks for inspiration!

  23. I go to vintage jazz events in New York. I have a ’20’s dress, made from a vintage sari, that I wear to those that seem to need dressing up, figuring that the drape-y style was my best. bet. Thirties did not seem an option, but your look is an inspiration. I might just try it.

    • Thank you, Pat! Your sari dress sounds so beautiful! I never thought the 30’s were an option for me either, until I started sewing 30’s patterns.

  24. Boy, am I glad I went to the comment section. I wanted to see the dress on you ans I love it. Unfortunately, all I could see on the e-mail photos were rocks and a flash of blue sleeve.

  25. I love your dress. You look stunning. I am going to study grading so I will be able to upsize patterns. They are not large enough for me.

    • Thank you, Anne! Grading isn’t as difficult as it looks — it just takes some practice and finding the method that works for you. 🙂

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