Disclaimer: this pattern was given to me to review. All opinions expressed are my own and I aim to be be unbiased.
Hot on the heels of the Yaletown dress (my version here), Sewaholic released the Rae skirt. The pattern was designed together with a sewing teacher, to be “a skirt for true beginners, designed to meet the needs of a brand-new sewer making their first garment project”. Although Tasia readily admitted that the design would be hit or miss on curvier bodies, knowing that lots of us avoid gathered/elasticated waists (whereas others love them), she and Caroline offered me the PDF to review for you all.
I’m going to break the review down into separate parts so I don’t foget anything! And I’ll warn you: it’s long.
Design
The skirt is designed with beginners in mind, so there is no zips or pockets etc. It’s a plain skirt, and I think a lot of more experienced sewers are a bit disappointed in the release – particularly because there seems to have been a shift recently where lots of indie pattern companies are designing progressively more simple patterns, rather than interesting, complex ones. I won’t make any judgement on it, as there’s obviously a market for them and the Yaletown more than makes up for any disappointment I might have.
Gathered skirts (particularly with elasticated waists) can easily be quite frumpy, and can easily look Becky Home-ecky, so Tasia and Caroline have aimed to reduce that look by giving the skirt a flared shape by creating panels. I think the panels help to reduce bulk around the waist and produce a nice flared shape, but the choice of fabric will be the real test of how professional/handmade vs homemade this skirt can look. As for this skirt on us curvier ladies – bulk around the waist IS minimised (as compared to a dirndl style skirt, that you make by sewing two rectangles together, gathering the top and attaching to a waistband), but you’ll have to decide whether this style would work for you or not. I think it looks good on me, although I would probably always wear a belt with it.
I am somewhat disappointed by the lack of additional design options though. In the release post Tasia mentions how you could easily add pockets, or belt loops, or a self-fabric belt, by using pattern pieces from other (Sewaholic) patterns. I would be much more impressed if they did what Colette has done in the past and released a free PDF file containing said pattern pieces or other ideas – if a beginner bought this as their first pattern and wanted to embellish it, how will she/he otherwise get hold of those pieces?
I also want to make a note here about the recommended fabrics. It would be nice if there was a bit more explanation about what fabric to choose (this is probably one of the most common mistakes beginners make! I know it was my biggest problem when I started). The pattern suggests: “Lightweight woven fabrics such as cotton and cotton blends, challis, rayon, linen and linen blends. Choose lightweight fabrics that will not be too bulky when gathered”. Most of these are fibres, but challis refers to how it’s made/the finish and can be produced in a couple of different fibres, so it’s a bit confusing. Additionally, not all cottons are created equal, and there are a lot of rayons that would be harder for a total beginner to handle. Also, one of the modelled skirts is denim, which is usually not light-weight! So I think there is more scope to your choice of than it seems, but I find it odd their samples aren’t in the recommended fabrics.
I made the skirt in a super slinky polyester of some kind, and some linen. The type of fabric you choose will dramatically change the silhouette you get. My favourite fabric to use when I was a beginner was cotton sateen, and most would work well with this pattern, as would good quality quilting cottons (yay for crazy patterns!).
The PDF
The PDF has 40 pages, and the pattern is tiled in such a way that you only need to print the pages you want for each version, with an index to tell you which pages on the first page – each version is only 12-15 pages each (two pattern pieces per skirt). I found that each page fit together really nicely with no obvious gaps (some PDF patterns have small errors where, even if you line up the piece properly, the lines end up not meeting perfectly). There is also a background grid I liked, which aids in matching the pieces together.
Sizing
The different sizes are nested, so you can grade between sizes easily, and I would think that you could grade this pattern further without too much difficulty, if you know how. The largest size is a 16, which corresponds to body measurements of 41-35-47″ (104-89-119cm). I’ve always found it interesting that Tasia is Canadian, yet uses imperial as her default for measurements – although I often do the same thing out of habit, despite not using imperial at any other times.
They have included finished measurements but only includes the waist measurements when the elastic is tight (33″ or 84cm for size 16, so a negative ease of 2″). I measured each piece of version A and, without the elastic, the finished measurement of the waist is just over 50″ (128.8cm). The pattern suggests choosing your size by your hip measurement as you can adjust the waist elastic to fit – the size 16 has a finished hip measurement of 53″ / 135 cm (view A) or 57″ / 145 cm (view B&C). So you could still make the size 16 even if you’re bigger than the sizing chart, you’ll just have a little bit less gathers and flare. Another option would be to use 10mm seam allowances rather than 15mm, which will give you 6cm extra.
For reference, I cut the size 14 waist, grading to size 16 at the hips, and both my versions (short and long) are cut with no changes to the pattern (ie, I haven’t lengthened or shortened it). My measurements are: 40 – 32 – 48″ ( 101 – 82 – 122 cm) and I’m 5’10” tall (178cm)
Instructions
Although I don’t tend to read instructions in depth these days – I’ll often skim read it, and only read in detail what I need to, once I’m already making the skirt – I thought these were well done. They are definitely written for beginners, and are written almost like a tutorial/sewalong (rather than something like, “make a casing, thread elastic through it, and close”). The pictures are good enough that more experienced sewers can glance at them to determine how to make the skirt, rather than having to read through the instructions (I like this in patterns, even more complicated ones, so I can just remind myself what to do when making something for the second or third time).
Pros
- This is a good beginner pattern, especially if you’re not one to jump in the deep end trying to figure out zips and darts. And in my opinion it’s 100x better than starting with a pillowcase you will never use.
- Only two pattern pieces per skirt, so it’s easy to assemble the PDF and easy to cut out the fabric
- The PDF is well tiled and lines up nicely
- For most body shapes this design is probably a nicer shape than a dirndl style skirt (less bulk at the waist)
- Elastic waistbands are COMFORTABLE, and mean you don’t have to be nearly so precise with fitting. Also good for eating large meals 😀
- In fact, the fitting is really easy if you go by your hip measurement, and cut the elastic however tight you want it to be
Cons
- Reasonably pricey for such a simple design ($12 CAD for the PDF version, $16 CAD for the paper version + shipping)
- The fabric recommendations could be more detailed (not sure if they’ll cover this in more detail on their blog)
- You need to be quite accurate with your cutting in order for the waistband tunnel to stitch together easily
- It would be nice to be provided with options to embellish the pattern
- Probably not worth it for intermediate/experienced sewers
- Many bigger (and smaller) women avoid gathers around the waist as they can add bulk
- The sizing range is very limited
Conclusion
So what’s my take on the pattern? To sum it up: As an intermediate/experienced sewer, I probably wouldn’t have bought this pattern. I am, however, pleased that I have it and will probably make quite a few more versions – particularly when I’m in need of a quick pick-me-up (my second one (in linen) only took me about an hour to make, all up). I would definitely recommend this pattern to beginners as it’s well designed and thought out, will give you experience using and reading patterns, and has excellent instructions.
What are your thoughts on the pattern – beginners and advanced sewers alike, do you think you’ll be picking it up?
I’m a bit late to this, but thanks for the review – really interesting. The skirt looks great on you. I think how good it would be for a beginner depends strongly on the beginner though – I’m a recent beginner and began with the Hollyburn skirt, and the thing which really made me think “wow!-this is so worth doing” was the pockets. I thought they looked fantastic and are a practical touch which you don’t see very much on RTW skirts. The waistband, on the other hand, was a bit of a mess – not a particular problem though as I cover it up with a t-shirt or jumper – as you are doing with the belt and the elasticated waistband. So I guess it all depends what will inspire the beginner in question! Absolutely agree that more help with fabric selection would be useful – that’s definitely the trickiest bit!
I’ve suggested the Rae skirt when beginners have asked for pattern suggestions, but have never used it myself. This is a frank, detailed, helpful review.
Great, thorough review–thank you for this.
I strongly agree that a pattern that is specifically aimed at beginners should have more information about choosing a fabric, as I think that’s one of the most challenging tasks for a beginner. I know it was the reason I had so many wadders when I first started. There should be something in there to at least get the reader thinking about drape and weight–will this fabric make the skirt stiff and bulky? Will the skirt be too clingy and sheer? Is this fabric substantial enough to stand up to the use a skirt will get? It also concerns me that a beginner won’t get the need to consider the size of the print in a skirt with panels; that big, dramatic print is going to look all chopped up and strange if you use it on this pattern. Do the instructions even discuss whether to use a woven vs a knit?
Sorry–just noticed the word “woven” is in the instructions you quoted.
Hey Sophie-Lee, thanks for the review, it was really helpful. I am wondering how you graded from size 14 to 16 at the hips. I’ve never done that before. Do you do that on all the pattern pieces or just on the side pieces? I tried sewing this skirt according to the size chart but it looks ridiculously bulky at the waist. I could probably just increase the seam allowance on all vertical seams but am wondering if there is a better way to doing this. It would be great if you could point me in the right direction. Cheers, Kat
Hi Kat,
So sorry I didn’t respond to this comment earlier – it’s not 5 months later! Bah. Did you manage to sort this out?
i was a pattern tester for this skirt (my first time!) and i didn’t fit into the largest size either. i made up the 16 as directed and it fit, but just barely, with hardly any gathering at the waist and hips. i found it easy to add width to the panels to make it larger. i think i added 1″ to each panel so it would fit more like her samples. i would consider myself an advanced beginner, so i think almost anyone can upsize this pattern without much trouble. i used a lightweight cotton broadcloth and it made a very fluffy skirt! but it still flattered my waist because of how it is shaped. i want to make it in a rayon challis next.
As a novice sewer this is the sort of pattern that I am attracted to HOWEVER it irks me that the designer says it would be easy to add pockets to this skirt from her other patterns. As a beginner I don’t own their other patterns as they are too hard for me at this stage. Why not just include them as an option in the pattern right off the bat?
That’s exactly how I feel! Seems silly to me. Actually, I will email Tasia and suggest this specifically.
Great, thorough review- thank you!
My pleasure!
Count me in as a person who thinks that there’s a place within an indie designer’s line for simpler, “true beginner” patterns. Honestly, I don’t understand what the big issue is with it, outside of, I guess, it temporarily taking the designer away from designing more “interesting” patterns. If I were pear-shaped and just starting out with sewing, I’d be all over this pattern.
That said, I won’t be buying it because A) I have a completely different body type than what Sewaholic drafts for and B) my hips and waist are above their size range anyways. BUT I do love that niche fitting pattern companies like Sewaholic and SBCC exist–it certainly makes sewing more fun when you’re making a pattern that’s already adjusted for your body type. Now, if there was a pattern company that catered to truly large-busted women, I’d be a very happy camper.
First off, thank you, Sophie Lee, for such a great review of the skirt! You covered a lot of details. I got a very good sense of what makes the pattern special, while letting me know it really isn’t for me.
But I’m with you, Michelle. I can see why a person who likes the patterns an indie starts off with, and then becomes disappointed by later offerings. Especially if the patterns also fit the person well and have excellent instructions– that’s more than just liking an aesthetic. But pattern designers are human, and like the rest of us, they also see what’s trendy in fashion and design. So if fashion shifts from details to simple lines, they probably will follow. If design features large, bold prints, a designer is likely to design clean lines to create a blank slate for all those prints. I get the disappointment; I don’t get the anger or taking it as a personal offense or insult.
I think having a range of designs at various difficulties probably is a very good thing from a business perspective. You can appeal to people across skill levels. And I’d think many highly skilled sewists like having well-drafted easy projects to work on as a brain cleanser after something intense.
An option, even for beginners, might be something like Great Copy 1260. For $10 you have three skirt options, four gore, six gore and straight. I love it and have used it repeatedly. The directions are such that I believe a beginner could follow them, although not as much a tutorial as this one appears to be. I think the one has the advantage of being available in pdf format (so no waiting for the mailman)…
I usually stay away from elastic waists as well, but if the gathering is minimal and the elastic is wide enough….Anyway, that looks like an easy summer skirt.
The pattern calls for 1″ elastic, so you may need to extend the pattern a bit to accommodate thicker elastic (easy to do). Interestingly, I can’t do elastic much thicker than this – I think because my waist is much slimmer than my hips but is also short, so I go in and out again quickly, wider elastic looks really weird/digs in
This is exactly my problem too. I am super short waisted and the biggest part of my hips is the “high hip” part so smaller width elastic looks/fits much better.
I appreciate your complete review. I did buy the pattern in the hopes I could find a simple woven skirt pattern that works well. I could never get the Colette Ginger to fit but after having so much success with the Colette Mabel knit skirt, I wanted to find a TNT woven.
I agree with your wishes to have more embellishments. I plan to sew a sashiko border on mine assuming I can get a nice fit.
I look forward to seeing your versions! My first Ginger skirt was great but my subsequent 3 tries weren’t nearly so good, so I haven’t tried it since.
And a sashiko trim – FANCY!
This was a really well thought out and thorough review. The skirt really does look good on you. I am definitely of the ‘avoids dirndl’ persuasion, but I have already discovered by accident (during a recent refashion) that I can wear them if they are panelled like this one. That shaping really does make all the difference and a skirt with an elasticated waist is so nice for travelling in. I don’t think I will be buying the pattern as I am on to the next step, sewing wise, but I might if my daughters wanted one. This is the kind if skirt they wear all the time (especially in patterned jersey) and I think the short version looks youthful. Maybe when the indie houses release simpler patterns they should go for a lower price point though. Simplicity did this with their easy beginners patterns and making it more pocket friendly would encourage new sewers who didn’t want to make a huge outlay to give it a go. (By the way my first project at age 12 was an elastic waist dirndl skirt. It was awful , but I loved it and wore it until it fell apart!)
Haha yes, I steered clear of gathered waists for yonks until someone suggested I try making one with an a-line shape (rather than straight sides/dirndl). I did it and it looked great, and I felt silly for always avoiding them.
I do agree regarding the price point, and I especially like how some (Thread Theory, Colette, Deer & Doe) have made their really simple patterns free. I would say though that it would also mean the more complicated patterns would be more expensive (like Sewaholic’s Robson coat) which would be a shame.
And yes, my first wearable item I made when I was 13 was a “gypsy skirt” – a wide yoke, then three tiers of gathering. I pulled it out again when I was 15, cut all but the top tier off, and wore it a LOT
Thank you so much for a wonderful review! I’ve just gotten back into sewing and was considering this for an easy start, but the sizing had put me off.
I absolutely love these skirts on you, Sophie-Lee! I am somewhat trepidatious about elastic waists, but that polka dotted one is so cute that I may have to knock it off. It is a pity about the limited sizing, however! This would be fabulous skirt for beginners of all sizes.
You have made a couple of lovely skirts. Shame the pattern only goes up to 16 which leaves out most of us curvies. Definitely not a pattern for me.
I know, it’s a real shame especially given how easy it would have been for them to grade up – but I don’t think they have plans to increase their size range in the immediate future (but I know it’s possibly on the horizon).
I do think it would be VERY easy to make bigger, though.
I upgraded this to a 22/24 yesterday. The pattern pieces make it very easy to add in extra space without messing up the proportions.