Petite Plus Patterns by Kathleen Cheetham have been around for a while; however, we hadn’t seen a new release from this line for several years until she released the “Shapely Blouse” pattern this past spring. As a petite (5’2″) plus sized woman myself, I’d long been curious about these patterns, and finally decided to give the a try with the release of the new blouse pattern. I’d held off on these because some of the artwork/sample photos can be a bit dated, and I’m like a cat with a laser pointer when it comes to trying patterns (New! Shiny!). However, I’m really glad that I finally gave one a try, as my new red Shapely Blouse is one of my favorite things hanging in my closet right now.
Petite Plus Shapely Blouse
“Petite Plus Patterns are designed especially for the smaller-framed, full-figured woman with narrower shoulders, a full cup bust, rounded tummy, and delicious full curves.”
Pattern name
Shapely Blouse by Petite Plus patterns
Description from the Petite Plus patterns web site:
“This simple little blouse is softly fitted with a V-neck, five-button front closure, side-seam bust darts, curved hemline and optional front & back torso darts.
For warm weather or under a suit jacket, make a cap sleeve version. Sew much more by adding long sleeves, easy fast cuffs and your choice of either faced neckline or collar in rounded or pointed style.”
Size range (with measurements)
This pattern is available in Petite Plus sizes 12-24, which ranges from a 38″ (97 cm) full bust to a 50″ (127 cm) full bust and a 40″ (102 cm) hip to a 52″ (132 cm) hip. View the entire size chart in the image below:
What size did you make?
Going off of my high bust measurement, I started with a size 20 and altered from there.
What are your measurements, height, and body type? (If reviewing a top or dress, bra size is very helpful for our readers.)
My current measurements are as follows:
- High bust: 42″ (106.7 cm)
- Full bust: 49″ (124.5 cm)
- Waist: 42.5″ (108 cm)
- Hip: 46″ (118 cm)
- Height: 5’2″ (157.5 cm)
- Bra Size: 40H
My body type is somewhere between a busty hourglass and busty rectangle from the front, but more of a busty apple from the side.
What adjustments did you make and how long did they take?
I made the following adjustments:
- 2.5″ traditional slash-and-spread Full Bust Adjustment (FBA)
- Squared off the corners of the button openings to give the blouse a more current look
- After my first non-muslin version, I wound up adding 1″ length all around to put the blouse length more in my comfort zone for wearing and moving around.
Overall, I probably spent less than one hour on pattern adjustments.
What fabric did you use?
After making a muslin to check my fit, I used Cotton + Steele Rifle Paper Co fabric for both “good” versions of my blouse:
- For the black, long-sleeved blouse, I used a cotton-rayon lawn.
- For the red, short-sleeved blouse, I used a rayon challis. If you’ve never worked with it, note that Cotton + Steele rayon is a little beefier/easier to work with than most rayon challis.
Petite Plus – Shapely blouse in lawn (Yes, those drag lines mean I need to re-work the front darts in this one).
What was the construction process like? Did the instructions make sense to you?
The instructions are good. Kathleen includes an instruction sheet for basic fit adjustments along with the instructions on how to construct the blouse. The construction instructions are reasonably detailed and include clear diagrams.
I’d rate this pattern as an “Advanced Beginner” level of difficulty.
The construction process is…lengthy for a fairly simple blouse because of the 8(!) darts included in the pattern (2 shoulder darts + 2 back waist darts + 2 front waist darts + 2 bust darts). It don’t know about you, but sewing a bunch of darts always feels like a slog to me. The good news is that once all of those darts are sewn, the rest of the construction goes pretty quickly. And we can’t side-eye all of those darts too badly, since they help lead to a good fit.
How do you like the pattern’s fit? Do you think the design works well for your particular body shape?
Considering that I’m a busty petite woman (5’2″) with a bit of a dummy, yeah, this pattern was pretty much drafted for my body type. It would be great if this pattern came with the option for larger cup sizes (above a D-cup), but I did do a much more reasonably sized FBA on this pattern than on non-cup-sized patterns. I think the final fit (particularly with my red blouse) is really, really good.
Petite Plus – Shapely Blouse
Will you make the pattern again? If so, what fit or design changes will you make?
I really love the neckline of the collarless view, so I’ll probably stick with that. (The bias-cut collar is a bit of a fabric hog, too, whereas I was able to squeeze the short-sleeved collarless view out of 2 yards of 45″ wide fabric.) This is such a great basic pattern that it would be silly for me not to make more.
Do you have any advice on this pattern for other curvy sewers? Are there any resources (blog posts, fitting books, tutorials) that helped you sew this piece up?
This pattern fits true-to-size for the size chart, so use that as your starting point to select a size. Make note of the high bust measurement–I love that Kathleen included that in the size chart.
Overall pattern rating
Size Range (1-5): 4 — The size range is very good; there are a few indie pattern companies out there with larger size ranges, so that’s why I gave this a 4 instead of a 5.
Instructions (1-5): 5 — The instructions and illustrations are quite good.
Construction Process (1-5): 5 — The construction process was uneventful. Everything is drafted well and goes together nicely. I did think that the two-piece sleeve had a little more ease than I’d like in the sleeve cap, but that’s an easy fix if I make the long-sleeved version again. I did not run into that issue with the short sleeves.
Final Fit (1-5): 5 — The pattern is true-to-size. I am very happy with the final fit of my blouses.
Overall Rating (1-5) + Explanation: 4.75 — Average score of other scores. This is a really fabulous pattern for curvy petites.
Disclaimer: I was given a promotional copy of this pattern by Petite Plus patterns; however all opinions expressed in this review are my own.
Fabulous post Michelle. Each time you review a pattern and I try the same pattern I have a lot of luck. This time I beat you. I have made her swing coat, jean jacket and tshirt and her jeans. I am 5’7” tall with narrow shoulders and a D cup and a tummy. All I have to alter is the torso length. Everything else is perfect for me. So they are not hard for me to alter. As to her pants. All I have to do is to lengthen the leg. I all both above the knee and below the knee. I would say to all of you. Ignore the pictures and look at the line drawing. The fit is superb!
Autocorrect! I add length above and below the knee.
The pattern pictures are so bland! I assume it’s to keep the pictures from looking dated quickly, but they just look frumpy. And the beige one looks too short. But your version is awesome! Actually something I might consider!
My library has this book! I read it awhile ago, and thought most of the designs/photos were bland and frumpy. I assumed it was to try to keep it looking classic and not go out-of-date quickly
Love the blouse Michelle! I should call you my enabler… I wouldn’t have looked at this pattern, I had also discounted HP’s Poncho Top too – until I saw your one…. there’s one in the cutting queue as we ‘speak’.
There is a book by Kathleen on Amazon called Singer Perfect Plus which comes with 4 patterns – the blouse you made, fly front trousers, a skirt and a blazer. Is this the same book as the Petite Plus mentioned above?
Yes, it is the same but make sure it has the patterns still.
I love this pattern! I’ve put off making it because of the darts. But I can see they make the fit nice! I am going to make the rounded peter pan collar on mine. :o) I usually hate collars, but it sits low enough and I love peter pan collars! (from my youth!)
Both blouses you made are beautiful!! The detail on the long sleeved is so cute! I love the sleeve gathers! Thank you for this review. I love Kathleen’s patterns. And she has great customer service!
There are…so…many…darts in this pattern. That’s the only thing that makes this pattern somewhat time-consuming. Once the darts are sewn, the rest is a breeze. But the darts to give it a very nice shape/fit, so it’s worth it!
Oh my gosh, yes! Darts can be really annoying sometimes (although, sometimes I actually enjoy sewing them too..), but they make such a difference. I hardly ever see patterns with shoulder darts at the back. For me they make things feel so much better to wear and move around in. Which is all to say, good job seeing past the uninspiring photos to the nice pattern underneath. I love your red shirt, and the black one is cute too, in spite of its flaws.
Michelle, you look great! Your makes (especially the bold red print), sells the pattern. Who would have thought that this simple style could look so trendy and fashionable. Your best makes to date.
Try the Jeans Jacket that Petite Plus Patterns makes. I’m tall and busty, but my height is all in my limbs (very long legs and very short waist) – I had to add 2″ to the sleeves and do an FBA (but didn’t have to lengthen the rest of the top). It sews up easily, the directions are top-notch, and the fit is great. The best part is that the style is still very much in fashion. (Same with many of her patterns – they all can be worn today if you choose the right fabrics…. most are classic styles that transcend the decades (see the sheath dress)).
I can’t believe how dated and uninspiring the envelope versions are – I would NEVER think to make this blouse! Just goes to show how fabric choices and styling make all the difference because your versions look totally modern and chic! I love your pants too, they really suit you – did you make them? I think that waist darts work very well for busty women as they help the front of a garment lay flat at the torso rather than hang from the bust. This looks like a really great pattern – thank you for your review!
That red version is just stunning Michelle, I think it’s one of my favorite-ever makes on you! I hope it gets tons of wear.
Thank you! It’s one of my favorites, too!
Try the Jeans Jacket that Petite Plus Patterns makes. I’m tall and busty, but my height is all in my limbs (very long legs and very short waist) – I had to add 2″ to the sleeves and do an FBA (but didn’t have to lengthen the rest of the top). It sews up easily, the directions are top-notch, and the fit is great. The best part is that the style is still very much in fashion. (Same with many of her patterns – they all can be worn today if you choose the right fabrics…. most are classic styles that transcend the decades (see the sheath dress)).
The company should really use your photo in the red blouse for the pattern cover! Fabulous!
Haha, thank you! That’s an enormous compliment.
MICHELLE! YOUR HAIR!!!!!! It’s gorgeous!! I love the color so, so, so much!
Alright…back on track 🙂 I really like this top; great details and very easy to change the feel of it based on fabric choice. That red fabric pops!
I know! I love my hair, too! I’d been wanting to go bright for a while and finally took the plunge over the summer.
And thank you for the nice compliment on the shirt–I really love the red version, too.
I think the blouses all look great on you!
Love the red blouse on you! It looks super! Great job!
And I also should add that your red blouse is gorgeous!
I have used these patterns for years and they are worth every penny! The fit for vertically challenged but quite round women is superb! And Kathleen really is there to help if you email her.
Wow! These blouses are beautiful on you!
You red blouse is just too cute, Michelle! Nice work. I like that they include a tummy and hip measurement, cause that size 24 is my lower half exactly! I might have to check out their pants pattern situation.
I am loving this Michelle! I would have written off the pattern as frumpy, but it is completely chic and modern in the ways you whipped it up. Goes to show why having a diverse group of people making an item matters so much!
Those are pretty blouses. I checked the website and yikes! At $21 that’s a really expensive pattern. I appreciate the review so now I know about this company but not sure I’d jump to get one.
Many of Kathleen’s patterns were sold with her book ” Singer Petite Plus” in 2009. It’s out-of-print, but Amazon has links to bookstores with copies. Do check to make sure that the copy you want still has its patterns. (Some sites may not consider “Singer” part of the title.
Oh good to know! Someone is selling theirs for $190, but I’m sure there are more reasonably priced copies. 🙂
My library has this book! I read it awhile ago, and thought most of the designs/photos were bland and frumpy. I assumed it was to try to keep it looking classic and not go out-of-date quickly
Michelle, I really like your two blouses, especially the red print.
Is there any thing about this pattern that would make it unsuitable for adjustment to a non-petite wearer? Not tall, but average around 5’6″. Thanks.
You will definitely need to add length, as I’m only 5’2″ and found the “default” length to be a little short for my comfort zone. You may also need to mess around with the armscye/bust dart placement a bit, as those worked well for me as-is, but I sometimes need to adjust them in “normal” patterns, depending on the draft.