Hi sewing friends, Megan here, your unofficial CSC bra sewing ambassador!
When all the CSC editors were brainstorming for the Curvy Year of Sewing Extras and Accessories theme, I knew I wanted to do something bra related. Someone suggested reviewing a bralette pattern since they are so hot right now! My personal favorite bralette pattern is the Watson Bra, which has been serving me well as my everyday bra since I first tried the pattern out a few months ago. However, it has a sadly limited size range so I went on the hunt for a bralette pattern that was more accomodating. I settled on the Mood D’Arcy Bralette, which seemed like a real win as a free pattern claiming a size range up to a 58.5 inch bust. Spoiler alert: this pattern did not deliver as promised.
- Pattern name: Mood D’Arcy Bralette
Photo from Mood
- Size range:
This is the size chart as advertised on the pattern page. Imagine my surprise when I downloaded the pattern and it only included pattern pieces to size 22! Also a surprise, it came in an A/B and C/D size range. Unfortunately, there is no guidance given in the instructions about how to choose your size or how to choose which size range to make. This really should have been enough to make me rethink my plan to sew this pattern, but stupidly I persisted.
- What size did you make?
Given that there was no guidance on sizing, I used my best judgement based on my measurements below and a cut the 18 A/B. This was about one size down from the measurement chart because I suspected my fabric had a little more stretch than the pattern was designed for. I say “suspected” because there was not much guidance on suggested fabrics or stretch percentages, so all I had to go on was that their example was sewn up in power mesh and stretch lace which the pattern instructions said each had about 30% stretch. I somehow missed this tidbit on my first (and all subsequent) read throughs of the instructions since it isn’t called out specifically in a separate section and is just mentioned in passing in the text. More details on appropriate fabrics and stretch percentages would have been helpful.
- What are your measurements, height, and body type?
Height: 5’7″, mostly in the legs
Overbust: 41″
Full Bust: 45″
Underbust: 41″
Bra Size: I haven’t bought a RTW bra in three or so years, and they never fit well when when I was wearing them (hence the sewing) so I’m still not sure what my “correct” bra size is. I started with the 40C pattern in the Watson bra, but that includes width added to the band and volume removed from the cup. I am aware that my measurements “should” make me a D cup, but believe me when I say that my bust is no where near that large, which I have learned from years of trial and error.
- What adjustments did you make and how long did they take?
I didn’t make any adjustments before sewing the pattern. I made a whole bunch of adjustments on the back end so that I could salvage something wearable.
I started with this athleisure fabric that I had leftover from my most recent pair of Avery Leggings. After doing the majority of construction, it became apparent that it was HUGE. I removed an inch at each side seam, resulting in 4″ total width reduction. That didn’t help much so I resorted to more drastic measures. I lined the back and underbust band in my firmest stretch mesh and lined the cups in a swimwear lining because I don’t personally like the feel of stretch mesh right in the cups. Well, that was still too large so I decided to line the cups in a pretty low stretch foam that I had in my lingerie stash. This whole process required a lot of creative sewing techniques, but it did result in something (mostly wearable). At that point I was SO OVER this bra and just wanted it to be done, so I decided to omit the extra “cage” strapping”, I didn’t want to waste any more of my precious lingerie stash on this disaster.
- What fabric did you use?
The main fabric is double faced “atheleisure” knit from Joanns (I’m pretty sure thats the one). I love it for leggings, but it was apparently way too stretchy for this pattern. I added stretch mesh, bra notions, and elastic from my stash.
- What was the construction process like? Did the instructions make sense to you?
My biggest complaint with this pattern was the instructions. I don’t think there was enough detail provided for anyone to get a well fitting or supportive bralette, as the pattern claims.
All seams are supposed to be finished by just folding and hemming. I added 1/2″ elastic to the underbust seam, but wish I had added extra length at the bottom so that I could finish it with 1″ elastic. I don’t understand how a bra can be supportive without some elastic in the underbust, there is nothing to stop the ladies from migrating downwards. I also added 1/2″ elastic at the top of the back band for a little extra support.
Additionally, all seam allowances were given as 1/2″, which in my experience is not standard for knits or for lingerie. I would expect 1/4″ or 3/8″ at the most. I trimmed them down before cutting.
The pattern instructions call for the majority of the construction to be done using french seams. I’m sorry, but WHAT? Do you really want a cup seam with two layers of fabric (including a textured stretch lace like they use in the example) to be finished with a bulky french seam? I serged, but since these stretch fabrics don’t fray you could easily use a small zig zag stitch too.
Since this pattern uses two layers of fabric, I can’t see any reason they didn’t just suggest that you use one of the many established techniques for lining a bra.
I added topstitching to keep my seam allowances laying flat. This was not suggested in the pattern.
- How do you like the pattern’s fit? Do you think the design works well for your particular body shape?
I’m not sure I can honestly speak to the fit of the pattern as designed, since I made so many modifications and there was no direction given on choosing a size. However, the foam I lined the cups with has a similar stretch percentage to the fabrics they used in their example, so I think the cups should be fitting as designed. In which case, they are incredibly flattening and not at all flattering. The cups don’t allow for hardly any projection. I have been wearing this bralette around the house a bit because I didn’t want to waste all those precious bra making supplies, but I would never wear it out in public because it doesn’t give a bust shape that I like.
Additionally, for me, the proportions are a bit off. The cup portion is too long and doesn’t sit well above the bust. The underbust band is too short and doesn’t provide any support.
- Will you make the pattern again? If so, what fit or design changes will you make?
I think its time to move on from this pattern. I would really like to find a fun bralette with some cup seaming that gives a nice shape AND has a great size range. For me, I think I may stick with hacking the Watson, but that isn’t very helpful for all my bustier friends. The search continues!
- Do you have any advice on this pattern for other curvy sewers? Are there any resources (blog posts, fitting books, tutorials) that helped you sew this piece up?
My advice is to NOT sew this pattern. Just kidding (sort of). I don’t think its necessarily poorly drafted, but the instructions and details aren’t thorough enough for many people to achieve a supportive bralette. I do think that if you are an experienced lingerie sewist, this pattern has the potential “making it work”. Its free, so it might be a good starting place for some hacks!
Pattern Rating (1-5, 1 is the lowest, 5 is the highest)
Size Range: 2 – It is not as large as advertised, but it does go up to size 22 which is a 48.5″ bust, its just unclear if that is for the A/B size or the C/D size. My guess is it will accommodate at least a 50″ bust if you use the larger cup size draft. I’ve deducted points because there are no details on how to figure out the correct size or which cup size draft goes with the measurement chart.
Instructions: 1 – I did not find the instructions to be detailed or to use the best lingerie making techniques
Construction Process: 2– The construction order makes sense, but the finishing techniques leave something to be desired.
Final Fit: 1 – I am not at all pleased with the final fit, and it took a lot of work to “make it work”
Overall Rating: 1.5- The search continues!
The Watson and the Mama Bridget are my go to bralettes. I have the Sweet Sixteen. And am a bit skeptical of the sizing!
The Watson and the Mama Bridget are my go to bralettes. I have the Sweet Sixteen. And am a bit skeptical of the sizing!
I’ve wanted to try the sweet sixteen but have heard really mixed reviews on that company’s sizing, so I’ve held off for now!
Thanks for the review. You are saving me from more frustration. I made both of Seamwork’s bralettes and they are just not sized right. And there is no shaping or support – even in the larger sizes. It’s just fabric. Not even a dart for shaping. I really want to find a bralette pattern as it would be a great way to use up scraps and don’t require all the specialty notions and fabrics that a full bra does. Sew so easy makes a sports bra that looks promising but I haven’t tried it. It seems that a lot of the bra company patterns don’t grade up well in the band (most end at ~40 in) and I don’t want to even try to do any fitting on my first run. I would love to see a post from CSC on bralette pattern reviews. Maybe a throwdown or two!
Thanks for giving an honest review!
As someone with a 44″ under bust and a 52″ over bust I can surely sympathise. I have found a shop with RTW ones that fit a treat but I measure up as a 38L in their sizing. My problem is that the synthetic fabrics cause me problems and I wear a cotton vest underneath a bra when wearing one. I have finally given in and am currently trying to design one made from cotton weave. I used a pattern found on Pinterest for a bra top made from denim which came with a sketch of the cup shapes and the cradle but leaves you to come up with the measurements. The strap provides the lift. Still in the experimental stage but I have hope. For those keen on a bra top they can wear in public I suggest looking up the “katori” blouse on YouTube. They come in single and double depending on how much of a cup shape you want. If you start with “amazingwomansworld” as she explains in English you will get the idea. Competent sewers will get the directions from those in Hindi just as easily but you can’t beat this style for a simple bralet meats blouse that gives support and can be worn in public and quickly made from very little fabric to go with anything. Me, I am mixing the double katori with the one from Pinterest and hopefully will come up with a supporting bra that can be worn without a vest underneath.
Strangely enough, your review makes me want to try it! With edits for a supportive elastic band under the bust, of course. I tend to like long cups and very much dislike projection… and I’ve made enough bralettes to just do my own thing with construction. This could be the one for me!
I think it would be a good pattern for hacking if you are willing to put in the time to make it work with a few Muslims!
Please tell me that’s autocorrect!
oh! my! ROTFLOL!
I am so skeptical of bralettes. I love them in concept. But I’m busty & not at all self-supporting…I can whip together an underwire bra with all the infrastructure in two hours, but I’ve only tried one bralette pattern so far & it was such an unmitigated disaster (it was the Sweet 16 bralette from Pin-Up Girls, & some of the problem may have been user error in choosing a size) that I’ve been too scared to try again. I’ve had the Watson cut out & sitting next to my cutting table for months, but I just have a hard time imagining that any kind of stretch fabric isn’t going to just give me that alluring “two cantaloupes in a pair of socks” silhouette.
Ciara- I totally agree with you. I’m not busty but I’m also not self supporting, so the whole reason I wear a bra at all is for the shaping. I added foam to my Watson with very few modifications and now I love it! Of course, this is me speaking as a not very busty person, so YYMV.
The thing with free patterns, they’re usually just a little better than making your own. They’re like a jump-off point for a better pattern: not good enough by themselves, but can work if tweaked. I can almost hear the pattern maker saying something like: “I want to discard this draft, but maybe someone out there can work on it some more and make something wearable.” Definitely not for beginners, like me. And definitely not for those of us who treasure our stash of elastics, power mesh and fabric (and expensive stretch lace!). I always rely on my Craftsy classes with a sure list of supplies and patterns made by experts (not a paid advert). I also like all of the Jalie patterns with their video tutorials easily accessible on YouTube. Still, when all is said and done, we learn the most from the patterns that frustrated us and wasted our stash — even if our only conclusion is DON’T MAKE THIS.
Oh my! I really want to make my bras. But I fear wasting supplies if it didn’t turn out. Yours looks very nice considering all you had to do to save it!!
Thank you for mentioning about adding elastic!! RTW bras quit adding elastic straps. And they are so stiff!! Now I’m thinking with your suggestions I could up-cycle my current RTW bras!
Great post!
Thanks so much Eliz! I would suggest pursuing the bra section on this website if you want some tips about patterns and where to get started. I like the Watson bra but it has a pretty limited size range, but I suggest starting with that if it will fit you!
Megan, an excellent write up! My sister would like me to make her a bra. She’s tired of RTW bras and having to add an extra piece of elastic in the back. She is in your size range. Learned a lot from you in this post. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
That’s great, Deb! If she fits in the Watson, I definitely recommend it, it’s a great beginner pattern and really easy to extend the back pieces a but
Thanks for all the hard work.
Thank you for this review! I agree with your assessment with this being long in the bust department and short in the under, supportive area. I now am thinking I will go back to follow your work on the Watson bra as that may be a better fit for my shape. This will save me a lot of work!!! 🙂
That’s great, Danita! Hope the Watson review is helpful to you. Now that I’ve figured out how to add foam to it, its hands down my most comfortable bra option!
Oh crikey. You woud definitely need some sort of adequate instructions esp for beginners like myself. I have a Jalie sports bra top to try and sew and hopefully that will have some clear directions. On my sports bra hunt I did come across some bralette patterns – maybe it was on Etsy. I know they do have a bra/bra top/ bralette for plus sizes, ‘endurance bra’ I think it’s called. Well, thank you for the review and sorry it did not turn out as hoped for 🙂
Thank you! I think you will be fine with the Jalie sports bra, I’ve made that one and it’s very straightforward! Good luck!
If it helps, Rad Patterns has a very similar bralette pattern called the Ororo! It goes up to a 67 inch bust and a 55 inch underbust & includes 3 different cup sizes. I typically don’t love Rad Pattern’s instructions, since I like my hand to be held in all honesty lol, but their drafting tends to be great. Sorry this pattern didn’t work for you though!
Thank Raven! I think I’ve seen that one in the Facebook group. Good to know for the large busted ladies!