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Pattern Review: Itch to Stitch Marbella

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Hello, dear readers!

marbella 1

I’m so happy to share this dress with you!  This is the Itch to Stitch Marbella which features a bateau neckline, front and back yokes, pockets, princess seams and a pleated tulip skirt.  It’s basically the cocktail dress pattern that I was searching for!

[source: Itch to Stitch Patterns]

The CSC was provided a copy of this pattern for a review and I was excited to sew it as I had been admiring Shannon’s lovely version.  I had this black and silver rose brocade lingering in my stash and figured it was a good time to take it out and add it to my wardrobe.  This brocade was gifted to me by my mother-in-law and I had always intended to sew a retro cocktail dress with it.  This pattern is not inherently vintage inspired, but it evokes a 1960’s vibe in my mind and is more so when paired with a fabric like this.

brocade marbella

Pattern Name:  Itch to Stitch Marbella Dress in black/silver rose print poly/nylon brocade lined with polyester china silk

Size Range:  0-20

What size did you make?  Graded up to about a size 22/24, using the D-cup bodice

What are your….

  • Measurements:  48-41-52
  • Body Shape:  Pear-ish/Spoon
  • Height:  5’8
  • Bra Size:  44D

What adjustments did you make and how long did they take?  Aside from grading this pattern up using this technique, I added about an inch in length to the skirt and did a narrow hem.  I also did a swayback alteration, taking a wedge out of the bottom of the back bodice pieces.

What was the construction process like?  Did the instructions make sense to you?  The construction process is lengthy if you follow the instructions which are very involved and thorough.  I started following the instructions, but decided to just skim them as I went along.  This pattern is meant for “intermediate” sewers, but has a lot of detailed descriptions and could be completed by a beginner, in my opinion.  As my fabric is heavier, it doesn’t need all of the stabilizing efforts that the designer suggests.  I don’t think that it needs the interfacing on the yokes as the fashion fabric also acts as the yoke lining.  With a lighter weight fabric, it would definitely need stabilization to keep the shape.  If you have sewn similar dress patterns before, I would suggest sewing this following your instincts and using your sewing knowledge rather than following the instructions.

marbella side

How do you like the pattern’s fit?  Do you think the design works well for your body shape?  I think it fits me rather well and I’m happy with the outcome.  I’m not sure that the tulip skirt shape looks fabulous on me as it’s wider at the hips and adds width.  However, I wear full gathered skirts, so I’m plainly not concerned with appearing thinner.  I did iron the pleats of the skirt down and the brocade creases very well.  I prefer this look for this particular fabric.

Will you make the pattern again?  If so, what fit or design changes will you make?  I may.  It’s a chic pattern that I could probably use a couple more of in my closet.  The only design change would be to scoop a little out of the bateau neckline.  It would also be fun to pair this bodice with another skirt shape.  I love the princess seams and the yoke.

Do you have any advice on this pattern for other curvy sewers?  Are there any resources or tutorials that helped you sew this piece up?  If you’re using a fabric similar in weight to mine, I’d suggest skipping the yoke interfacing.  The pattern also suggests an invisible zipper and I was apprehensive of one paired with the thickness of my fabric.  I decided to sew it in and it after a pressing, it zips easily.  If you make this pattern with a thicker fabric, a lapped zip would probably be a better way to go.

Pattern Rating (1-5)

  • Size Range:  3
  • Instructions:  5
  • Construction Process:  4
  • Final Fit:  5
  • Overall Rating: 4

All in all, I’m very happy with the outcome of this dress.  I wasn’t certain how the tulip shaped skirt would look on me as I’ve never tried one on, and was happy that it isn’t a terrible shape for me, especially with the inverted pleats pressed down.  I think it looks chic and a bit more sophisticated than the dress styles that I usually favor.

marbella 3

Note:  This pattern was provided free of charge in return for a review.  These are my honest thoughts and opinions.

Comments

  2. This is a great looking dress! I agree with the others, very Audrey! I wasn’t so keen on the tulip style either but I’m glad I gave it a try anyway. It’s not as exaggerated as other patterns I’ve seen.

  3. Any advice for working with brocade? I tried once, but it was such a beast I’m not sure I’d do it again. Love this dress, btw.

    • The only problem I have with sewing brocade is that it frays very easily. I serged all my seams, and that helps quite a bit. I also was careful about using pins so as not to leave many marks and had a fresh microtex needle in my machine.

  5. I love the dress. I actually like your version better than the pattern cover. I think it’s really flattering on you and I agree with Robin; it’s very Audrey Hepburn-ish.

  6. OMGoodness Tanya, this is such a good look for you. It has an air of retro sophistication, kinda Audrey Hepburn-ish (especially with your hair up). I love the fabric. Nice side view too-really shows off those pleats.

  10. That’s a fabulous Job! It really suits you and the fit is just wonderful. I agree with dropping the neckline. I can see a slight dip at your chest which might lead to gaping if you do lower the neckline. If you make sure you stay-stitch and maybe raise the front shoulder near the neck point you should be fine though. Congratulations!

  12. Ahhhh!!! Awesome!! I love this silouette on you!! I made a very symilar one for me on January for my friend’s wedding. I’ll be posting it on the flickr pool once she gets the pics from the photographer.
    I love your dress.
    Mon

  13. Looks really nice – isn’t it fun to step out of your comfort zone and try something new – we often an be pleasantly surprised! I need to remind myself that more often when sewing!

  17. I really like the shape of the dress. It’s very chic. I agree about lowering the neckline next time. I have a DD bust and the high necklines never feel quite right. I think a slightly lower neckline looks and feels better with a large bust. Everything else is beautiful. I would consider making this after seeing yours. Dressing up has become the bane of my wardrobe! I need to have a couple of nice things in my pocket for emergency fancy events. Thanks for sharing!

    • Thanks, Christine! Yes, it’s great to have things like this in the closet when you need them! I usually make things ahead of time for events, but sometimes they come up and I don’t have anything to wear! lol 🙂

  18. I really like this dress and how it looks on you. It’s very flattering. I have been in a sewing funk lately because I can’t really find a dress that looks good with my curves. They all seem to be a little…off, somehow. Don’t know if I am not good at grading up, or what the deal is. I think I am going to back off to do some easier projects before I tackle a dress again.

    • Thanks, Jan! Time to get out of your funk and sew up some separates, I think! 🙂 I hate when dresses don’t turn out the way I’ve envisioned. I never thought I’d like a tulip skirt until I finished sewing this! 🙂

  19. Nice! Maybe it’s your choice of photos, but I think the skirt shape really features your curves. Maybe it’s the big grin on your face. Whichever. Brocade does take a sharp crease, and for once, that works with the pattern and you and the print. I don’t know how you feel about your knees, but I would almost take it up an inch at the hem to work that tulip shape.

    Or at least I will. And I hate my knees.

    • Thanks! I do think the shape accentuates curves without being restrictive. I usually prefer my hems to be at about the knees or right below, but I will pin it up and see how it looks.

      • You make that fabric look much better than it deserves! (It reminds me of a fabric I felt up at Joan’s that had a texture only vaguely more pleasing than a Brillo pad.)
        You look amazing. Just curious– that neckline looks uncomfortable. Is it?

        • Thanks! I believe this fabric did originally come from Joann’s, so it’s probably the same one! The neckline is not my favorite, but no more uncomfortable that a heavy necklace.

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