I hope all of my sewing friends are well this lovely morning.
Here is a review of my Washington dress from Cashmerette Patterns. I wasn’t a pattern tester because my husband was in the hospital during the test period, but Jenny sent me the PDF in case I could test it. The review is my own idea and these are my genuine opinions – I have no obligation to give a positive review.
It is also the dress that I made for my son’s casual wedding on a boat next summer, so it is my mother of the groom dress. I wanted the dress to reflect the casual nature of the wedding but also be upscale enough to be special. I am very happy with the outcome.
I used the PDF download pattern (it also comes in a printed version). The pattern went together very well just like the Appleton Dress. I love the grid markings.
I was apprehensive regarding the negative ease on the pattern. I had no problem with the negative ease on the Appleton. I measured almost exactly an 18 C/D with my hips going into the size 20. I chose the size 20 based on my need for extra fabric especially across the chest. In the end I used a straight size 20 EF. I used the size 22 sleeve for my beefy arm! I always choose a smaller size for my shoulders but there is so little difference between sizes in the shoulder on this pattern that this was no real concern.
My second concern was how would this look on someone of more advanced age. LOL. I am really not in the demographic for these really cute patterns. But sometimes I am just stubborn and I believe there is no reason this couldn’t work for me.
I made a quick and dirty muslin first with remanent fabrics. Mistakenly I felt I needed to add to the torso length because I lengthened the Appleton. I did NOT need to be lengthened! I have a long torso so check that with a quick muslin. It may need to be shortened if you are at all petite or shorter waisted. The 1.5″ I added made a huge difference in the look of the pattern. It looked wrong. It needs to cut above the waist by several inches, in my opinion!
From my muslin I also learned that I did not care for the three color blocking on me.
My measurements for your comparison. 45-41-48. D cup bra.
Fabric. I used a knit rayon/Lycra for the base of the dress. I love the cappuccino color of this fabric so it was the main contender for this dress. I also had a goldenrod yellow poly knit and a wine coloured poly knit out to audition with the stretch slightly yellow/cream lace I found in a bargain bin. The yellow lost out because it was poly. The wine coloured lost out because it was poly and too much of a “winter” color for an outdoor summer wedding! I think that was a good decision.
I felt that the softness of the rayon in the skirt might be too limp so I fused the skirt pattern pieces to my really good quality tricot interfacing. It gives it a nicer hand for the skirt.
This is the 4th time I have made this pattern now. The first 3 were tunics and my muslin did not make it into my wardrobe. I made no changes to the pattern except for the size 22 for the sleeve.
Construction: This is a really straight forward pattern and easily achievable for beginners. It is really just a color blocked Tshirt dress. It’s well drafted with all notches fitting together easily.
I cut the top and yoke pieces in both the rayon knit and the lace. I cut the sleeve in lace only. Since the stretch on the lace was good in both directions I decided to cut the sleeves on the cross grain so I could use the the salvage edge as the hemline. I sewed the garment together with the lace and rayon put together as one piece of fabric.
I think it looks like a lace overlay without any fussing with shifting pieces of fabric or riding up.
My Rating for this pattern
Sizing: 5/5. The sizing is very inclusive as it is for plus sizes. It is great not to have to alter for bust size, or forward shoulders or for a sway back. Those alterations are already done well. This pattern is a snug fit across the bust so just be aware if you are not a teenager or not as perky as you once were. You might want to go up a size.
Construction: 5/5. A very easy pattern. It is great to have such an easy pattern that is so shapely and interesting.
Instructions: 5/5. Great instructions. A quick sew once you have your fit.
Fit: 5/5. I can’t believe how well the Cashmerette patterns fit me and my body. I have almost no need for any alterations, which if you have read any of my other reviews is something that rarely happens to me!
Overall rating: So this is a 5/5 pattern for me.
Great dress, Elaine! I love how the skirt drapes in a knit fabric.
If I may ask, what sort of foundation garments do you wear with these knit dresses? Anything special?
Actually I am wearing nothing but bra and panties.. No spanx or panty hose with control top at all.
Thank you for responding. The only knit dress I’ve made was very clingy. So enjoy your reviews.
I think it depends on the knit. Fragile knits cling like crazy. I also interfaced the skirt with stretch tricot to give it more body and less cling. And less negative ease? You need some for shape. But too much means cling
It was Vogue 1250. I really think it was the design . I cut it up later and made a top of it. I loved that top and still have it. Nice tip about interfacing the skirt. I may have to order this dress and give it a try after reading your review.
So much love for this Elaine! I’ve been keeping my eye out for some pretty stretch lace ever since I first saw your version.
I have added length to all my Washingtons and I think it has to do with the amount of ease you have in your version. Mine is tighter and thus the bodice ended up shorter from stretching more width wise. I see this issue in hand knitting all the time.
I really like your version. I wasn’t a fan of the color blocked middle section and so I didn’t respond well to this pattern when it came out. But your version really shows off how lovely the pattern is and might end up making me purchase it. Thank you for sharing and you’ll look great at the wedding.
I I feel the same about the 3 colours. I will attach a picture here so you can see it done up in a solid color in the tunic length. I did all three pieces as if it was color blocked.
Wow, that’s really pretty. Thanks for sharing. I’ll probably pick that pattern up eventually. Although, I know for sure that I want the Appleton, but I haven’t gotten it yet because I’m trying to not buy new patterns (unless they are on sale) until I’m actually ready to make them and my to-sew list is pretty long ATM.
Love this adaptation. Looks amazing.
Your dress is absolutely lovely. Perfect for your wedding. I, too, am not ‘in the demographic’ by a good many years, but I love this dress. It’s entirely appropriate for any age. No need to be relegated to baggy frump just for being in my 70’s! I made a very wearable version of this dress after only one muslin. My muslin was a straight 18 EF, according to pattern measurements just to see what I was starting with. The ease is extremely negative. Wound up with size 18 neck/shoulders, 20 (GH) bodice, sleeves and skirt. I eliminated some of the yoke flare and put the skirt on the bias. I’m quite short and find that the hang of a bias skirt is much more flattering than an A-line.
I had hesitated when I saw the color blocking on this dress as well and wondered what it would look like if the same material were used for the top and the color-blocked section… and now I can see! It looks great on you! I’m thinking I’ll give it a try! 🙂
Pretty dress, Elaine! However, I don’t get the “I am really not in the demographic for these really cute patterns”. Not in general, but certainly not in this particular case, as the owner of the pattern company asked you to be a tester. Mature women come in all shapes and sizes, with different lifestyles and tastes. I think these factors are much more important when it comes to pattern selection than age!
“I am really not in the demographic for these really cute patterns.”
If you like it and it suits you, then you are in the demographic. The problem is that most designers seem to think that past a certain age, women aren’t interested in cute clothes.
I like fun and funky and interesting. This dress is interesting as well as fun and funky. Funky just is different at different ages. You are right. This is my demographic!
The lace is a great idea, I like how you cut to avoid hemming I at the sleeves too.
A beautiful make. You have inspired me to give this a try.
It is a great dress Nadean. I have made it into a tunic twice by just shortening the skirt and I have made it into a Tshirt as well. The bodice fits so much better than most of my regular Tshirts. No scence in having something fit so well and not using it again?. And in Canada I don’t really need another dress for winter.
I miss Canadian winters.
I was dubious about the colour-blocking but seeing your version has let me look at the pattern in a completely different way. Now to just find the time to make it…after I finish the Cashmerette Appleton dress (a purchase also inspired by your review).
I like very much, and your final description is perfect – lace overlayed dress…..should be perfect for the wedding. Also your comment about not adding to the bodice lenght is a good one…..it’s more flattering. Thanks for such a good post…
This is a lovely dress on you! The fit looks to be dead on. Congrats on a flattering and easy make.