Hello, dear readers!
It’s “Skirt” month and I thought I’d share one of my favorite skirt patterns. This pattern is Butterick 5285, a fast and easy skirt that lives up to it’s name. There are four different skirt options from gathers to pleats and all have waistbands with the option of side seam pockets. This skirt is super fast to make and doesn’t take much fabric, which are both wins for me. Sadly, this pattern is out of print.
My first version with the TARDIS print (above) is View A. It’s a simple gathered skirt in polyester “faille” from Spoonflower which is a fabric I really don’t recommend to sew with. However, I like how it drapes and love wearing this skirt, especially with my Doctor Who tees. Of course, you can self-draft a skirt like this, but I prefer patterns to drafting things myself as it makes life much easier.
My second version was View B, featuring front and back pleats and made from a polyester chiffon. As my fashion fabric is sheer, this skirt is lined with a poly lining. I love the floaty appearance of chiffon, and to me, it seems like when it’s in a skirt, it’s more everyday wearable rather than relegated to a party frock.
Pattern Name: Butterick 5285 (OOP)
Size Range: 14-22
What size did you make? Graded up to about a size 26
What are your….
- Measurements: 48-41-52
- Body Shape: Pear-ish/Spoon
- Height: 5’8
What adjustments did you make and how long did they take? Other than re-sizing the pattern, I made no adjustments.
What was the construction process like? Did the instructions make sense to you? The two versions of this skirt that I made were super fast and easy to make. The instructions are easy to follow.
How did you like the pattern’s fit? Do you think the design works well for your body shape? I love how this skirt fits. I prefer my skirts to be less fitted around my belly/hips as I feel more comfortable in designs like these. The waistband is snug and doesn’t move around as elastic waist skirts tend to do on my figure, which makes both of these skirts easy to wear. I think this pattern flatters my curves and with the lightweight fabrics I chose, they don’t add bulk.
Will you make this pattern again? If so, what fit or design changes will you make? I’m definitely going to sew this pattern again! In fact, as I revisit it for this review, this pattern has me dreaming up some fabrics and colors that may work well for the pleated version with the contrast hem band. This pattern didn’t require any alterations for my figure and I’m too pleased with my previous skirts to change anything.
Do you have any advice on this pattern for other curvy sewers? Are there any resources or materials that helped you sew this piece up? This pattern is a great wardrobe builder and a big confidence lifter as it can be sewn quickly. I had this pattern for a while and didn’t think of sewing it until I saw Nessa’s wonderful versions: her measuring tape skirt and her waltzing Matilde skirt. I actually have that measuring tape fabric and may do a copy-cat skirt if I have enough of it. I’d love to make this in a quilting cotton. Of course, now the gears are moving in my head and I’m thinking I need several more of these skirts!
Pattern Rating (1-5):
- Size Range: 3
- Instructions: 5
- Construction Process: 5
- Final Fit: 5
- Overall Rating: 4
Overall, this skirt is becoming a tried-and-true pattern for me. I love having a pattern that comes together quickly with variations. And especially one that goes great with my collection of fangirl tees!
Melanie Shelton says
I really like the chiffon version. I was scared of poly chiffon, now I might give it a try for something similar
LadyDuckworth says
I love this! I’m newish to sewing clothes instead of random costumes (when the mood strikes to be a squirrel you just need fleece. So. Much. Fleece..)
But. I saw a fabric that I think would be super cute as a skirt like this. It’s 100% cotton though. Like… Bed sheet cotton. Will it work for a pattern similar to this?
http://www.joann.com/licensed-cotton-fabric-star-wars-ships/11220423.html
Sheila Perl says
I love both your skirts and they look fabulous on you! I would also like to know how you up graded in more detail and why do you not recommend sewing with “faille”?! Tell all!!!!
tanyamaile says
Thanks, Sheila! I used this method for grading up both of these skirts: http://wp1094.hostgator.com/~waezmq0ac6rs/how-to-grade-a-pattern-up-the-easy-way/
I do like real faille, just not the Spoonflower version of “faille.” Real faille (silk, viscose, poly, acetate, etc) is kind of stiff and ribbed. The Spoonflower “faille” looks nothing like that. There’s is drapy and every time you pin or prick it, it leaves marks through the print. A terrible fabric!
Mariah says
Spring is in the air and I’m in the mood to upgrade my wardrobe with lots and lots of fun skirts. I think I need to investigate whether or not I can find this pattern. It would fit in well with what I have planned (including a half-circle skirt, a couple zinnias and a picnic skirt.
tanyamaile says
It looks like you have a lot of pretty skirts in the pipeline, Mariah! If you can’t find this on ebay or etsy, Butterick and Simplicity have some similar patterns.
Patti Parnell Hall says
I am getting ready to sew a pleated skirt and also wonder about grading it up. I added a half inch in between the pleats but am not sure if that is the way to do it (I need 4 inches added). Let us know how you did it!
tanyamaile says
Hi, Patti! I copy/pasted this from my reply to Geri. I used this method: http://curvysewingcollective.c… for these skirts. With a pleated skirt, you can move the pleats or add new ones if you have a lot of extra fabric. I usually start with marking the center point and then pinning the pleats and making them even, making sure they’re they match on each side with a ruler. Then baste to make sure it’s the way you want it and sew.
Patti Parnell Hall says
Thank you!
I will try this and let you know how it turns out.
Sandra v says
I love it!!
tanyamaile says
Thanks, Sandra!
Geri O'Donnell says
Love it! Can you go into more detail about how you grade up a pleated skirt while preserving the design?
tanyamaile says
Thanks, Geri! I used this method: http://wp1094.hostgator.com/~waezmq0ac6rs/how-to-grade-a-pattern-up-the-easy-way/ for these skirts. With a pleated skirt, you can move the pleats or add new ones if you have a lot of extra fabric. I usually start with marking the center point and then pinning the pleats and making them even, making sure they’re they match on each side with a ruler. Then baste to make sure it’s the way you want it and sew.
L'Anne says
The Who skirt is the bee’s knees! LOVE that!
tanyamaile says
Thank you! I love my Tardis skirt! 🙂
L'Anne says
I’m doing a TARDIS embroidery on a bag for a friend!
tanyamaile says
That is super cool!!!!
L'Anne says
I should stitch out one for you as thanks for the spoonflower heads-up. You could use it as an applique or something.
L'Anne says
Question: how have you found the quality of Spoonflower? I’ve heard mixed things about consistency, and there are a few pieces I’d like to get.
tanyamaile says
Well…. I cannot recommend Spoonflower, especially their “faille”, which isn’t really a faille…. You have to be vary wary of the prints as some will come off when they’re washed and fade. The faille has not faded though, but every time you pin it or sew it, some of the print disappears and leaves marks. But if there is a print that you cannot find elsewhere, it’s a good way to go, although I’d probably stick with the cottons and get a swatch first to test it out. I’ve heard bad things about the knits as well.
L'Anne says
Thanks! That is really helpful. I am still considering getting the yard I was thinking about, in part because it does seem the quilting cotton is good. Or at least less likely to have issues than some of the other products.