It’s our first pattern roundup post of 2018, and many pattern designers have been rolling out new patterns to kick off the new year. We’ve got a pretty nice variety of new patterns this month–let’s take a look!
Cashmerette – Activewear Collection
Activewear patterns for the curvy and full-busted aren’t particularly easy to find. To answer this need, Cashmerette recently launched her first set of activewear patterns–a collection of two workout tops and two different styles of workout pants.
Cashmerette – Cedar Workout Tank and Dolman Top
If you’re large busted, have you EVER had luck finding a workout tank that both fits at the bust and doesn’t gape at the armhole? Yeah, me neither. However, as a pattern tester, I can verify that the Cedar workout tank provides both a good fit at the bust AND a non-gaping armhole. Hurray!
Cashmerette – Cedar workout tank and dolman top
Cashmerette – Belmont Leggings and Yoga Pants
Complete your workout outfit with the Belmont leggings or yoga pants. I tested the yoga pant pattern and found the rare combination of legs that didn’t bag on my apple-ish body and a rise that was appropriately high for my tummy and booty. The leggings have gotten similar raves from other testers.
Cashmerette – Belmont Leggings and Yoga Pants
Grainline Studio doesn’t have a particularly inclusive size range, topping out at a 44″ /112 cm bust, but I know that historically, their patterns have been relatively popular with CSC readers, and given that this is a loose-fitting coat, I figured there might be some room for fudging on the sizing.
I don’t think that the sample looks great, but it’s an interesting coat design and off the top of my head, I can’t think of any similar patterns. It’s in a boxy “boyfriend” style, has deep inseam pockets and sharp lapels, and a large snap closure. I’ll be curious to see how this looks on a curvy figure.
Grainline Studio – Yates Coat
HotPatterns – Plain and Simple Slouchy T-shirt Blouse
Looking for a relaxed fit (but not overly boxy) pull-over top that can be made from either a knit or a drapey woven? The new princess seamed Slouchy T-shirt Blouse from HotPatterns might fit the bill. This pattern comes with three different sleeve options and optional pockets. I have a similar RTW top made out of rayon challis, and I really like how versatile it is for layering and whatnot.
HotPatterns – Slouch t-shirt blouse
HotPatterns – Fast & Fabulous Miracle Pants
On the CSC Facebook group, we see near-constant requests for a curve-friendly “easy” pant pattern. Typical responses include the StyleArc Barb pant and the Sabrina Slims by Love Notions. I think we can now add the HotPatterns Miracle Pants to that group; they’re designed for ponte knits or stretch bottom-weight fabric and are meant to be an easy, flattering sew. Adding to the appeal is that they only have two pattern pieces, including a hidden elastic waistband to make for a smoother tummy. (Note that the creases in the line drawings are indications of pressed creases, not actual seams.)
HotPatterns Fast & Fabulous Miracle Pant
Itch to Stitch – Bellavista Top
Itch to Stitch has a new knit top out–this time with a big, drapey cowl. I’m a fan of big cowls myself (they feel so snuggly). It also has a paneled front with a flared hem to increase comfort and design options. I do really like the idea of this design; however in looking at the tester photos, I thought those narrow paneled seams draped a bit oddly on the larger sizes–particularly if the wearer had a large bust. I’m not sure if this is a proportion or a fabric issue (perhaps the design needed fabric with a little less drape)? I think I’d want to see this one on a few more curvy sewists first.
Itch to Stitch – Bellavista top
Itch to Stitch – Sequoia Cargo Pants
I squealed when I saw the new Itch to Stitch cargo pant pattern–I love that it’s a slim-fitting cargo pant (as RTW cargo pants have moved towards this shape, rather than the baggy cargoes of the 90s), that there’s a soft ribbed elastic waistband to comfortably keep your pants in place, and that there’s the option to make these with roll-up legs for hiking or simply as shorts.
Itch to Stitch – Sequoia Cargo Pants and Shorts
McCall’s – Early Spring 2018 Collection
McCall’s early spring collection for 2018 is all about the statement sleeve. We’ve been seeing a lot of statement sleeves in both sewing patterns and RTW for the past year or so. Granted, I’m far too much of a slob with food to wear a statement sleeve, but if they’re your thing. McCall’s has lots of options for you in this collection. That said, as a definitive non-statement-sleever, the patterns that called to me from this collection tended to not have this feature.
M7727 – Khaliah Ali dress and tunic
We get our first offering in a LONG time from Khaliah Ali with this new collection, and it’s an interesting-looking shirtdress/tunic. The styling in the samples doesn’t do this pattern any favors (nor does the oversized sash), but from the line drawing, I think it looks promising. Given that Khaliah Ali’s previous patterns focused more on inclusive sizing, it is a bit of a shame that this one tops out at a size 24W, though.
M7727 – Khaliah Ali tunic and dress
M7735 – Misses’ Outlander Costume
I have not yet given in to binge-watching Outlander, but many of my friends have, and my understanding is that it’s pretty great. Therefore, as someone who admires cosplay but isn’t really a cosplayer, this licensed Outlander costume pattern caught my eye.
M7735 – Misses’ Outlander Costume
For fans of Lagenlook, Pearl Red Moon has a new coat pattern out–the Marama Coat. The Marama Coat lets you get creative with lots of piecing possibilities and some very unique-looking patch pockets. The coat has a loose-fitting, asymmetric style with either a button or tie-belt closure.
Pearl Red Moon – Marama Coat
As has been the case for the past few January releases for StyleArc, the new patterns for this month are mostly blouses, and they’ve again offered a Buy-2-of-the-new-styles-get-1-free (in addition to the monthly freebie, if you order directly from them). I wasn’t really in love with most of the new styles this month, but I’m picking my two favorites for this roundup post.
While not terribly exciting, I thought that the Mimi woven top makes for a nice basic for lightweight, drapey wovens, like rayon challis or cotton voile. The sleeve is fun, too, without being as impractical as most “statement sleeves”.
StyleArc – Mimi Woven Top
These ballet-inspired wrap skirts have been popping up everywhere over the past year. Like the other versions I’ve seen, StyleArc’s take on the style is cute, and the elastic waist should help prevent having to constantly re-tie the skirt to tighten the waist, as can sometimes be an issue with wrap skirts. This is also one of the freebie options for January, if you buy direct from StyleArc.
StyleArc – Ariel Wrap Skirt
Tilly and the Buttons – Mila Dungarees
I did the overall thing back in the 90’s (along with my Rachel hair); I won’t be doing them this time around. However, every generation of women should have the joy of going to a public restroom in overalls and accidentally have one of the straps fall into the toilet, right? If you’re going to do overalls, Tilly’s new offering seems like a fairly easy version to sew, although they look a little odd with the lack of hip pockets in front. I guess you could easily draft a pair and add them if you want?
Tilly and the Buttons – Mila Dungarees
Vogue Patterns – Spring 2018 Collection
Vogue’s Spring Collection came out; however it’s a small one, and nothing much really grabbed me except for maybe this V1579 Badgley Mischka caped dress. I won’t do a full write-up for this collection as this post is already quite long at this point, but click the link to check it out, if you haven’t already.
Final Thoughts
Are you all disappointed if I don’t do a full write-up of new Vogue collections? More than the other Big 4 brands, I often struggle finding patterns of theirs to highlight. Thoughts/feelings?
What were your favorite new offerings this month? Are there any that you’ve already added to your pattern stash?
Michelle, I live for your comedy. And thanks to you my sister and I just had a great exchange via text messaging about all the ways we tried to keep out overall straps out of the school toilets!
Thanks for the the thorough and humorous review, I really need to snag the cashmerette active wear collection.
I think the Vogue 9293 dress has potential, but I want to see it in the real world first. It could be super cute, but it could also be super frumpy; it’s hard to tell based on marketing photos!
Except for the pattern you highlighted I thought the most recent Vogue release was one of the worst in recent memory. A lot of very unflattering, busy designs so I don’t blame you for skipping them. I hope they do better next time.
I’ve already made the Cashmerette Cedar workout tank. LOVE IT! I was actually even motivated to attend a yoga class. LOL. I’m going to make another one very soon. The fit was great on my 46F bust. The color blocking gives a very slimming look. I recommend using washable double fabric tape to apply the fold over elastic.
I love the Ariel wrap skirt. I was looking for something like this a few months ago and ended up buying Papercut Patterns Adrift dress to get a similar look.
Also the Outlander pattern looks good. Simplicity released a similar one a few years ago designed by American Duchess which i made and it was everything I wanted it to be. But I like the look of the McCall’s one too.
I’m with you re Vogue- I thought they were pretty dreadful. Red dress is ok.
The Vogue Bagley Mischka dress is absolutely beautiful. In my younger says I would have had to have this pattern. Now all I can do is drool.
I want to thank you for writing this column. I always enjoy reading it.
While I rather like Mc Calls and Simplicity patterns I only own one go to pattern for a top and one for shorts or long pants. Their are a lot of patterns I can not wear as their are fabrics I can not wear and all the patterns shown I would not even consider buying as I can not wear them. Or the sizing it out of my range. I love beautifully designed patterns and clothes while being simplistic as I let the fabric speak for the pattern. I am gradually finding this more and more difficult to do. I check the patterns every so often but still go to my favourite patterns.
I think the Yates Coat is cute but definitely not cute enough to up-size the pattern. There are so many beautiful patterns out there for curvy folks that my goal is to never have to redraft a pattern again. Shout out to the patterners that celebrate an inclusive spectrum of sizes!
I love Vogue’s designs….but I don’t blame you for not including them in detail. While beautiful and stylish, in and of themselves, I have a hard time finding any that are very flattering for the curvy set or any that I don’t need to alter the heck out of in order to fit well. I mostly love them from afar…
Thanks Michelle. A very comprehensive, honest review. I very rarely use Indie Patterns so no, I’m not worried about the brief Vogue information.
Hi,
I enjoy the pattern round up – it’s a lot of work, so thank you. 🙂
My Big 4 go-tos are McCalls and Vogue. Being in Canada, I don’t have access to Simplicity unless I buy internationally, which equals $$$ in shipping. So not including Vogue cuts out a good percentage of what’s available to Canadian readers. I say this not by way of complaint by any means…just giving information, since you asked. 🙂
Thanks for your input! I will continue to include Vogue links, as I always have, but as the patterns tend to not fit my lifestyle at all (working mom at a casual tech company), I really struggle with picking out individual Vogue patterns to highlight.
As always, Michelle, I really appreciate and look forward to your pattern round-ups.
Since you asked and expressed a struggle … here are my thoughts:
1. Concentrate on the Sandra Betzina patterns, since they are the most size-/curvy-inclusive in the Vogue bunch.
2. Ask for help. If Vogue isn’t your jam, perhaps another curvy sewist for whom it is would be willing to help out with a paragraph or two on Vogue.
Are you volunteering? 😉
I don’t really “get” Vogue either and am always curious who exactly the target is – I feel like they must be ideal for someone who has a certain kind of workplace, or attends a lot of events that require a certain look. People who work in law offices and have to go to after-work receptions? Does anyone here do that? Can you tell us about your pattern needs?
As for me I also don’t “get” Butterick. Simplicity and the indie companies have many more patterns that work for me – but also my style is deliberately pretty, well, gay/androgynous (Shannon of Rare Device is my fashion icon and makes up 95% of my sewing pinterest) and there are a lot more people on Instagram etc. who dress in that way who wear a lot of mall brands, and Simplicity and the indie patterns tend to be very on-beat with those styles. So it’s easier for me to imagine how those patterns fit into my wardrobe.
I grew up sewing with Vogue patterns starting in the 70s so I think my continued use of them is more a familiarity and tradition with the patterns themselves. But each seasonal roll-out of patterns is hit-and-miss. Vogue represents the more “runway” fashions and styles. They feature some of the top designers like Lauren and Mizrahi and they commissioned world class designers back in the day like Cardin, Givenchy, Pucci, Valentino. So they have a history of catering to a more bourgeois conservative crowd.
My sisters and I were wearing Valentino mini-dresses in middle school and high school that my mom made for us in these wild brightly colored print fabrics. And she’d make the same dress for herself using a wool jersey or crepe in black or a muted color.
The Tiltons (I think there are two of them?) and Betzina and some others commissioned by Vogue have rolled out some designs that work for curvy women or people who want a less conservative look. Vogue sizing has also changed over the years to reflect more inclusive sizing (not great, but better), but you’re right that the styles themselves lean conservatively. I’m a huge fan of Anne Klein designs, I’ve been using Klein Vogue patterns for decades, but I tend to lean on the conservative side like sheath dresses, silk blouses and pencil skirts, that sort of thing. I use mostly Simplicity and Vogue, I’ve found McCall’s patterns run huge on me, so I have to down size by sometimes three sizes to get a good fit without much adjustment.
Nice to see a cosplay pattern included but would have liked to know the sizes, while I don’t follow outlander nor am I interested in cosplay I do like the historical patterns, being a re-enactor. I have found that the best designs are often ones that I have designed for myself but I really enjoy reading the articles you write. Great to see something just for curvy people, but do you know of any underwear patterns out there, especially for bras with large cup sizes as this is something that I would be interested in making.
You can click the pattern link (or simply go to the McCall’s website) to see the size chart for the pattern.
As far as curvy lingerie patterns go, we did a whole Lingerie Theme Month a while back; you’ll find lots of pattern suggestions in those posts: http://curvysewingcollective.com/category/theme-months/lingerie-month/
I’ve fallen a bit in love with Ann Kerdiles patterns 🙂 I ordered 2 – her Nantes Blouse and the Bergen Cardigan. I haven’t worked with them yet but I lover her simple yet original designs. She offers both printed and PDF.
Her stuff is really cute. But yikes!–it tops out at a 42″/108 cm bust.