Are you gearing up for fall sewing yet (if you’re in the Northern Hemisphere)? Even if you’re not, the pattern companies certainly are. As we wrap up the month of August, we’ve got one of the more robust and interesting collections of new releases in a while.
Usually, I give Burda a lot of grief for their plus collections–which tend to be low on details and high on the shapeless sack factor. Honestly, usually I find them so boring that I don’t even bother including them in this roundup. However, I also like to give credit where credit is due, and IMO, it’s definitely due for their August collection, which I love.
BurdaStyle 08/2017 #127 – Biker Jacket
Biker or moto jackets have been pretty ubiquitous for a while now. Burda has featured a ton of them in their misses’ patterns in the past few years, but the “plus” version of this staple has been a lot more rare. The August issue has one, though, and I think it’s just glorious with all of its beautiful seaming and topstitching.
BurdaStyle 08/2017 #126 – Midi Skirt
Skirts don’t often grab my attention, but with its asymmetrical zipper and godet-behind-the-zipper that make this one a little more modest, my attention has been grabbed.
BurdaStyle 08/2017 #123 – 60s-Style Dress
Yes, it’s sort of a simple shift dress, but it’s got a waist seam and two sets of darts for shaping. And I think that decorative zipper just takes things up a notch. The zipper is also functional and can help open up the neckline of this dress.
Chalk and Notch – Fringe Blouse and Dress
I’m going to be honest–I almost didn’t include this pattern because its size range isn’t particularly inclusive (only going up to a 44″/112cm bust) and I usually try to focus on patterns with a bit more curve-friendly sizing. However, my Instagram has been full of tester versions of this blouse and dress for the past few days, and it’s looked really cute on everyone. Overall, I think that the style works on a lot of different figures, and it would be a simple enough pattern to FBA or grade up.
For fans of a minimalist aesthetic, Grainline Studio has a new release–the Hadley Top. The Hadley is designed for drapey wovens (e.g. cotton lawn, rayon challis), has two neckline options, and an option for a long-sleeved or sleeveless top, and an optional back neckline pleat.
HotPatterns – Plain & Simple Tailored Tees
For some of us, finding a tee pattern with our own perfect fit can be difficult. On one hand, many of us don’t like tees that cling to our midsections; on the other hand, we don’t want a tee that’s baggy all over just to skim over lumps and bumps or a larger tummy. HotPatterns’ new Tailored Tee takes these issues into account. It’s drafted with panel seams and a relaxed but structured fit so as to comfortably skim curves without being too baggy. This tee also includes three different neckline and three different sleeve options.
Itch to Stitch – Chai Shirt and Dress
I love shirtdresses. You all know that. So duh, it’s kind of a no-brainer that I like the new Chai dress from Itch to Stitch. Like most of their woven patterns, it’s got cup sizes up to a DD-cup, and it also includes an option for a cute top. I am a fan of dress/shirt patterns that have a narrow waistband like this–I feel like they give me an illusion of a waist when I’m really an apple when viewed from the side.
Love Notions – Cadence Top and Dress
It seems like nearly every pattern company has a shift top/dress in their catalogue. With Love Notions version, you get both top and dress views, multiple sleeve options, and the option of adding an elastic waist/casing.
Simplicity – Fall 2017 collection
Simplicity has some fun offerings, particularly in the costume and retro area for their Fall collection. We also get the first new Ashley Nell Tipton patterns since her line debuted last spring.
Simplicity 8456 – Misses’ Vintage Petticoat and Slip
A little utilitarian, perhaps, but I see lots of requests for slip and petticoat patterns. This vintage reissue should make it a lot easier to sew your own version of these garments for wear under vintage-style or just full-skirted skirts and dresses.
Simplicity 8470 – Misses’ Lined Coat
The approach of fall means new coat patterns are on their way. Toggle coats have been popular in recent yeas, but their boxy shape isn’t always the most flattering on a curvy figure. This new offering from Simplicity remedies that issue by having shoulder princess seams in front. And it even has a hood! (I always want my coats to have hoods.)
Simplicity 8472 – Ashley Nell Tipton Trench Coat
Ashley Nell Tipton got a bit away from the bodycon style of her first Simplicity collection by including a plus size trench coat pattern in this fall’s offerings. Personally, I’m not crazy about the idea of big flaps or a large collar on my giant boobs, but it can be difficult to find a trench pattern that extends well into plus sizes. The pink one, in particular, looks cute on the model, IMO.
Simplicity 8480 – Misses’ Jyn Erso and Zoe Washburne costumes
Looking to dress up as a badass for Halloween or for cosplay? You now have the option of a Jyn Erso (from Rogue One) or Zoe Washburne (Firefly, Serenity) costume. Of course, these aren’t officially licensed or labeled as such, but that’s what they clearly are supposed to be.
StyleArc – August 2017 collection
So, um, StyleArc released a bunch of new patterns this month, but I felt like we’d seen most of them (or something very similar) before. That happens sometimes with StyleArc, and I guess it’s to be expected when you’re as prolific at releasing new patterns as they are.
StyleArc offered two new “paperbag waist” pant patterns this month, one of which is the Thea pant (the other being the Thea Pant, which is similar to the Tully, but with a wider leg). Being short, I personally tend to prefer a slimmer legged pant, so that’s why I’m showing the Thea over the Tully. Both pants have similar details, although I like the way the played with the stripes on the cuff in the design drawing for the Thea. This is a cute pant, although not something I would buy/make since I always wear my shirts tucked out.
One of the “freebie” pattern options for this month is also one of the more interesting new releases from StyleArc, IMO. The Abigail knit top looks like a basic v-neck knit top, but the choker detail around the neck is pretty unique–I don’t recall having seen it elsewhere before. Given how on-trend StyleArc tends to be, I wouldn’t be surprised to see this detail starting to pop up elsewhere soon, too.
Tilly and the Buttons – Maternity Agnes and Maternity Bettine
If you sew for yourself and have been pregnant, you know that maternity patterns are difficult to find. Sure, the Big 4 offer them once in a while, but from my (and others’) experience, they tend to run very large–even for maternity wear. StyleArc has a few nice maternity basics, but beyond that, if you’re curvy, you’re pretty much stuck with adapting patterns that you already own. This unfilled niche is why I thought it was kind of great that Tilly (of Tilly and the Buttons) has reissued two of her popular patterns but modified for maternity wear–the Agnes top and Bettine dress:
I usually have a really difficult time with Vogue in these pattern roundups. Outside of some of the niche indies, Vogue is probably about the furthest company from my personal (casual) style out of the major pattern companies. This fall collection, though, did have some designs that I found a bit more appealing than the typical Vogue collection, though.
V1559 – Guy LaRoche Off-the-Shoulder dress
As a GG cup, I can’t wear strapless off-the-shoulder styles because no one makes a strapless bra in my size. However, I love this dress for those who can wear it. I’m not sure how I feel about it being made up in denim (Britney Spears flashbacks, anyone?) or the applique, but I really dig the line drawing.
V1564 – Sandra Betzina Hooded Raincoat with Belt
For such a utilitarian garment, raincoat patterns are few and far between. A few indies have put out anorak patterns that could be adapted to raincoat use, but only Closet Case Files Kelly Anorak has a decently inclusive size range out of those. With that in mind, Sandra Betzina’s new raincoat pattern nicely fills this niche–going up to a 52″ bust and 54″ hip.
V1556 – Rachel Comey Pleated Dress
I feel like I shouldn’t like this dress/pinafore/jumper thing, but I do. The details are unique, and in theory, with the belt and the stitched-down-over-the-hips skirt pleats, this design should have potential to create/enhance an hourglass figure. It’s sort of like a weird mashup of a schoolgirl outfit with a business suit, but I feel like it works.
Final Thoughts
So what are your thoughts on your favorites for this month? I loved that Burda Plus collection so much that I’ve actually ordered a single copy of the August issue (much more economical that purchasing that collection digitally). A few of those Simplicity patterns are must-have for me, too, and I might take a chance on FBA’ing/grading up that Chalk and Notch Fringe Dress/Top, as well.
cobaltcanarycherry says
The Hadley top pattern View B is sized only to an 18. Check your fit chart before purchasing if you are concerned about maintaining the amount of positive ease visible in the photographs for your “girls”. Disappointing.
Mary says
Has anyone here tried “new vintage lady” patterns? She says she’s is offering them in larger sizes.
Michell says
I always love these roundups! The Style Arc knit top with the choker detail might be my favorite. I’ve seen that style in RTW clothes for a while now and I would love to have one in my closet.
I kinda like the ruffly flappy things on the pink trench coat. I’m not into the other version, but I think it’s the model’s hair that makes me instantly dislike anything she’s wearing lol. I know we’re supposed to have good imaginations and use the line drawing to see what we could make with a pattern, but I have the hardest time with Ashley Nell Tipton pattern covers. I just can’t un-see the yellow hair! lol
Stephanie says
I just bought the Burda Zippered Midi Skirt pattern. I love that Comey jumper dress. I never thought I could pull off wearing a jumper since I was about age 10, so I think I’d pair it with a tissue tee in the same color as the dress. The effect of a dress but with all those great details on the jumper.
The only Vogue pattern I’ve picked up for fall is 9266, the sheath dress and shrug clearly modeled on Melania Trump’s Ralph Lauren inauguration dress. But I’m leaning towards picking up the Alarcon Lialia coat. It’s stunning.
Really lovely write-up. You’re right that the August issue of Burda hit it out of the park. I may pick up a copy since there are several patterns in there I would definitely make.
KS Sews says
The Chai dress is really pretty. I thought Simplicity’s release was pretty solid this time around. I have a handful on my wish list.
The fall Burda issues are almost always my fave and August didn’t disappoint. I’ve been meh on Style Arc lately but I like the pants — but there’s a very similar pair in the July Burda and I’ll try those.
Also the choker top was done by Burda last December. And now McCalls has one out.
Hannah says
There are some really cool items on this list. I’m particularly in love with that Simplicity 8470 coat. I already have the Chai dress on the to-do list – I love the size range of Itch to Stitch.
Just for info – the word picture around the Tully Pants is a bit confused. I think the Tully and Thea got confused a few times.
Carol says
Once you get past the costumey colors, the Simplicity 8480 actually has some nice style lines in the pants and long-sleeved top. May have to take another look at that one. Love your round-ups. I always see something new!
Karen says
Thanks for the overview, Michelle! I really love your monthly pattern roundup which always gives me lots and lots ideas for new projects.
May I also suggest Ottobre’s August issue (for women): http://www.ottobredesign.com/lehdet_js/2017_5/index.html?de
It features a gorgeous biker jacket (a must-sew for me). However, their sizes only go up to European size 52 but probably can be graded up one or two sizes.
Michelle says
Oh yes, the current issue of Ottobre Woman is a big winner. I actually have a copy sitting next to me right now. In addition to that great biker jacket, they have skinny jeans in both the misses and plus size range, and some very pretty rayon/viscose blouse patterns.
Andrea says
This is much better from my laptop. I’ll try it again:
Thank you, Michelle! I always enjoy your roundup, and so many times you have brought my attention to a pattern I might have missed (like the Hadley top).
Kristine says
Love the Grainline stuff, but I won’t buy a pattern I need to grade up. I prefer to support pattern companies that design for my size.
Melissa says
I have the Chalk and Notch Fringe dress/top cut out on my sewing table, I’m right at the top of the sizing but I’m hoping it won’t be too hard to adjust.
Katrina says
Awesome pattern roundup! I love some of the coat patterns, but I’m trying to convince myself I don’t need any more coats as I live in Arizona!
The Guy LaRoche dress is freaking me out, and I can’t figure out why no one has mentioned the armpit issue. Is this the new thing? Long sleeves with open arm pits?
Debbie Cook says
Thanks for the round-up Michelle. Always love it. I think the Ashley Nell collared (pink) coat would actually be quite flattering on you. If I had need for a coat, I’d definitely be making that one. I like everything Meg makes/models so I’m on board with the Fringe.
Andie W. says
I immediately bought the Burda moto jacket the second I saw it. I can’t wait to make it.
Michelle says
Yeah, I did my once-a-year-purchase-a-single-issue-from-GLP thing with the August issue. I loved most of the Plus collection, and there are some cute girls’ patterns in this issue, too.
Alice says
“Personally, I’m not crazy about the idea of big flaps or a large collar on my giant boobs…” Thank you for saying exactly what I was thinking!
I haven’t worn pants since Reagan was in office but those Tully pants are really cute.
I’m a sucker for nearly anything Comey releases, I like this dress too.
Thanks so much for doing my favorite feature of this blog!