Good afternoon, lovelies! This is the second part of My Year With Knipmode, a series examining my year of subscribing to that beloved Dutch pattern magazine. In the last post, I talked about the functionality of Knipmode, from subscribing to sizing. Today, I’m going to look at the patterns themselves.
Were they worth the price?
Have I used them enough?
Did the larger size range bring nothing but caftans and harem pants?
Well, let’s find out! Grab a warm beverage, settle in, and I’ll take you through my year of Knipmode patterns. Be warned, though: here there be pie charts.
Note: In the last year, I’ve received thirteen issues of Knipmode. I bought the first few issues on a trial basis, then signed up for a full, year-long subscription, because I liked the designs so much! However, there was a lag time between my subscription and my first delivered issue, which meant I didn’t actually get the January 2016 issue. For the purposes of this post, I didn’t use that issue or the September 2015 issue that Marianne previously reviewed, cutting my total number down to twelve. An actual year’s worth of magazines…if not consecutively.
Patterns by the Numbers
First up, let’s talk about the number of patterns. If you’re subscribing to Knipmode, how many patterns are you actually getting in that year? Well, over twelve issues, I received a total of 331 actual patterns, an average of 27.58 per issue. This count doesn’t include bonus issues, which will be in the next section. The French and German versions of Knipmode, called Fashion Style, don’t include these bonuses, so I separated them out.
As you can see in my handy pie chart, most Knipmode patterns fall into expected categories. Almost half of their offerings are dress and blouse patterns, followed by an even split of skirts and jackets. Trousers are well represented, but thinner on the ground. That’s probably for the best, let’s be honest. How many new, interesting trouser designs does one woman actually want to wear? There’s a bit of reinventing the wheel in that category, as it is.
This year, Knipmode also had six jumpsuit patterns, some lingerie pieces, and two Carnival costumes. Six jumpsuits may not sound like many, but as someone who suffers from pathological jumpsuit hatred, it felt like a lot. Every other warm weather issue had a romper or catsuit included.
Personally, I think Knipmode shines brightest in dresses and jackets. Those two categories had the widest actual design variation, with new, interesting styles featured in every issue and design lines seldom seen elsewhere in the sewing world. They’ve done everything from tailored, vintage designs to modern austerity, in both categories, and done it well.
Knipmode’s skirts can be repetitive, with seaming and asymmetry used to put a shine on basic blocks, but they also had some exquisite, standout designs. February 2016 featured nine separate skirt patterns, each one an innovative, wearable design that made up for more pedestrian looks in other issues.
For me, the blouses and trousers are probably the weakest areas, ignoring jumpsuits. You can tell that design variation is hard to achieve from month to month. There are some gorgeous blouses, but there are also a lot of boxy tops and twists on the standard button-down. Great, basic trousers are definitely found, but there are added pleats and weird “design features” on a number of patterns.
Bonus Issues
This year, there were three bonus issues that came with my Knipmode subscription. These miniature Knipmodes offer capsule collections, framed around a certain theme. March 2016 featured loungewear patterns, May 2016 had summer patterns drafted for three heights, and October 2015 gave us cozy autumn basics. These bonus issues have a similar pattern breakdown to Knipmode’s main issues, without extra fluff. 
Personally, these mini issues tend to be hit or miss for me. I absolutely loved the May issue and would happily make every pattern it included, but the March issue didn’t have a single usable pattern for me. October was more of a mixed bag, but still mostly positive and added value to the issue itself.
With capsule collections, which are so strongly tied to a theme, this spottiness is expected. I don’t sew or wear “athleisure,” but it’s obviously a trend that Knipmode saw and acted on, with March’s issue. Of course, that was going to be a miss for me! The classic patterns of May’s issue, meanwhile, were called boring by some Facebook users and went right onto my to-sew pile.
Favorite Issues
Up above, I gave you an image of all the line drawings for this year’s Knipmode issues, but that’s a totally overwhelming graphic. Why don’t we focus on a few individual issues, instead? We’ll look at which ones were slam dunks for me first, then we’ll examine those that didn’t work in the next section.
My favorite issues were actually much harder to pick than my least favorites. So many issues had whole collections that I swooned over or multiple patterns that I’ve already made up and loved.
For my money, though, the April 2016 issue topped them all. Entirely themed around vintage-inspired patterns, it brimmed with full skirts, nipped-in waistlines, and classic tailoring details. That this was my favorite issue cannot be shocking, y’all. It’s page after page of my pattern catnip! There was even a jersey shirtdress (#19) thrown in, just to win my loyalty further. While I haven’t actually made anything from this issue yet, there are eighteen patterns that tempt me to start tracing. Even the presence of a romper and a jumpsuit can’t bring this issue down.
The June 2016 issue came in a close second, with its theme of wearable summer dresses. In its pages are twenty dresses, each with interesting designs details and thoughtful nods to warmer weather. I’ve already made two patterns from this issue–the pieced princess-seam cover dress (#14) and the elastic waist kimono style dress (#23)–both of which are in constant rotation in my wardrobe. If the measure of a sewing magazine is how many patterns the subscriber actually makes, this issue would win. I’m already plotting some of the knit wrap dresses (#1-5), the strappy back cocktail dress (#8), and the cute A-line dress with center darts (#17). Heck, even those high-waisted sailor pants (#21) catch my eye!
Least Favorite Issues
My least favorite Knipmode issues were not hard to pick out. When I go through my giant stack of magazines–whenever I need a jolt of sewing inspiration–these two issues always end up cast aside. Neither one is universally bad, but they don’t send me racing for tracing paper either.
If December 2015 were a vegetable, it would be the cauliflower. It’s totally fine, reasonably nutritious, but not remotely exciting. It really needs some cheese or ranch dressing to make people crave it. Okay, this metaphor may have gone too far. Suffice it to say, this issue was full of “meh” patterns. There’s a nice blazer I might make and a cozy looking sweater coat, but otherwise it’s pattern after pattern of boring details and uninspiring styling. For a holiday issue, particularly, this doesn’t work. I wanted sparkle and cheer, but instead got midwinter drudgery.
The July 2016 issue of Knipmode is a weird one. I actually love flipping through this issue, thanks to its riotous use of color and modern floral fabrics. When I back away from the pretty pictures, however, there aren’t many patterns I like. Most patterns are almost right, but not there. Ruffles are too big; cold-shoulder cut-outs are too small. The one exception is the designer dress by Mart Visser (#21), with it’s cleverly cinched waist and interesting use of color-blocking. Loving one pattern and an issue’s styling can’t make this one a winner, though.
Final Pattern Verdict
Taking into account its hits and misses, good issues and bad, this was still a successful investment for me. Of the total number of patterns, 170 were pieces I either liked or loved. That may not sound like many, but it’s a much better hit rate than the Big 4 pattern collections, and infinitely better than my return-on-investment for Burdastyle. Having every pattern in every size means that if one collection doesn’t work, another in the issue still might. I’m not limited to whatever schlock editors deigned to give plus sizes, that month. Knipmode has more room for error, because of its inclusivity.
Knipmode has a much lower of incidence of WTF patterns, compared with competitors. The ones I don’t like are rarely hideous, but just a bit boring or uninspired. The patterns that work for me, on the other hand, work beautifully. They have thoughtful design details that I haven’t already seen a hundred times. In my next post, I’ll share my Knipmode projects from the last year. Not one looks like another pattern I already own!
When you look at Knipmode on a purely monetary level, it also succeeds. My international subscription was $90, which means each pattern cost me 25 cents. If we separate the dreck and jumpsuits, which I’m never making, that means that each usable pattern cost 51 cents. That is still such a deal! Even with the best JoAnn Fabrics pattern sales, I am not buying patterns for such low prices.
What’s more, I find that subscribing to Knipmode changes my overall pattern buying behavior. When a new indie pattern or Big 4 collection comes out, I always reference back to Knipmode before making a purchase. So many patterns are garments I already own some variant of, thanks to my subscription! Knipmode obviously tries to stay on the cutting edge of fashion, which is ideal in a subscription like this. When I wanted to try the exposed shoulder trend, earlier this summer, I already had a Bardot top and a few cold shoulder designs in my collection. The culottes that I gave side eye to, in last September’s issue, were aggressively on trend for 2016. My own style isn’t usually trend-oriented, but I do like having the ready-made option to try, without shelling out too much cash.
Honestly, my only complaint is that I haven’t used Knipmode as much as I should. Then again, I haven’t sewn as much as I generally do either. It’s been a year of style quandaries and ever-changing measurements. Frustration has kept me away from my nightly sewing habits. However, through all that, this subscription kept me inspired. Even in months without a single Knipmode project on my table, I’ve loved leafing through its pages and fantasizing about what patterns to make. Every delivery brings new excitement. I settle in with a cup of tea, highlighters, and my new issue, for an hour of creative bliss. One of my goals for the next few months is to up my own use of the magazine, because I do plan on resubscribing.
When I look at the numbers and all those glorious pie charts, it’s easy to see why. Knipmode isn’t perfect, but it certainly tries to please its audience. Boundaries are pushed, differing styles are catered to. There are flops along the way, yes. There are also issues filled with such gorgeous, inspiring patterns that even my lazy bones can’t help but grab a pen and start tracing.
That, my dears, is a win.
If you’d like to read about Knipmode’s sizing or how I use the patterns (including tracing and translation), check out my last post!
You must be reading my mind! I’m just planning a shirt right now. I would appreciate an article on matching up horizontal patterns. I tried the Craftsy Shirt class and the Libety shirt as well but my memory is poor so I’m happy to follow a long with you. Thank you.
t this magazine is really informative..I think I will subscribe also. Thanks again.
Thank you for the wonderful review! My life is just now changing (less work, and moving from a motor home to my dream cabin) and I am feeling like there is room, both mentally and physically, in this new life for me to get back to sewing. The curvy sewing collective has started me thinking and after reading your in-depth review, I think a Knipmode subscription is just what I need for inspiration. Thank you again for the time and thought you put into this.
Thanks for your detailed coverage. That’s a lot of work. I just signed up for a year. I am really looking forward to it. Thanks again!
I loooove the june 2016 issue as well, Mary! I’ve only recently started sewing for myself again and the two dresses I have made are both from this one issue. I have since adapted the pattern for a better fit, and hope to sew up a new wearable muslin for that very soon!
Great post! I was grinning at the thought how, more often than I’m willing to admit, a WTF pattern eventually ended on my sewing table. Sometimes years later, but nevertheless. It’s always fun to compare my notes on a new issue with the views of my daughters, who are your age, and my mom (84). What’s a ‘Meh’ pattern for me may get a lot of love from another generation. It must be quite challenging to come up with 25 patterns each month and keep us all happy! I was just browsing the new November issue to write a review and unlike last year no party dresses yet. Fingers crossed December won’t be cauliflower 😉
Hi thank you for your excellent review. I am tired of finding great styles in burda that are out of my size range! This week I will purchase 4 of the recent Dutch issues. My question is about peite sizing. I shorten my burda and Ottobre patterns since I am only5′ 1″. Using guidelines from Burda. Do you think Knipmode patterns are based on the same model height standard as Burda? Thank you
Knipmode is actually based on 5ft8″, which is average height for Dutch women…. I am 5ft4″ and I shorten everything. Knip used to be better at cutlines for lengthening and shortening, but I usually manage fine by myself too.
Thank you
I have now placed my order.
So looking forward to a new source of plus size patterns
Pat
In December of last year, they were offering a free download. I asked the same question because I am 5ft tall and was sent an extended size chart. If you want, I can email it to you. Just write to me my name @gmail.com. Be warned, though, that you have to translate from Dutch the terms in the table.
Burda sizes are for 168 cm high, Knip mode uses 172 cm, so shorten will be necessary.
I will need to take a look at this publication, if you also factored in ALL the wasted time thumbing through the Big 4 patterns you’d probably have another listing of ways to save. Thanks for this thoughtful review.
You make me want a subscription, so badly! LOL, thank you for two interesting, well-documented and relatively objective articles (you do sound like a HUGE fan of the magazine but I won’t hold it against you, promise). I have a freebie knit dress to try from their giveaway last december. And I think I’m going to ask my former students currently studying in France to track down Fashion Style for me.
I also have been subscribing to Knipmode since March 2016 and I LOVE it!!! Thanks for the review it is great!!
High five for Knipmode subscribers! Isn’t it a great magazine, Deb? I swear, even on off months, it’s the most exciting piece of mail I get all month.
Kipmode? Enticing. Definitely better deal then Burda Style. However, I loved one BS (love the initials) pattern. But how would it look on a curvy woman? Found your review (2014?). Thank Providence, the dress looks better on a curvy woman then BS’s standard Size 10-12 ‘Plus Size’ model. A month or so later, I snagged the BS Plus issue containing the pattern. and a few more I wanted.
Then I found 2 Burda Plus patterns in their folkwear collection. (What a curvy woman will do for a side-zipped bodice and a great jacket.) Dress and bodice top my Make,It.! list. LBD? Meet black denim bodice…encrusted with black pearls-sparkly crystals!
I am so glad that the Burda review helped, ZB! Your creations sound absolutely gorgeous. Now, I’m having fantasies of a crystal-encrusted LBD. *swoon*
I’d love to receive Knipmode in the mail. However, I’ve found that I have such a back load of projects I want to do and more than enough material than I need,I just cannot justify spending the money now. I hate putting together PDF’s as it is and here in Canada where I live tracing paper is fairly expensive. I could see myself enjoying the magazine though. I like when Burda Style comes out with new patterns for plus sizes and I can just choose which one I want for 5.99. I only wish they would make all patterns in plus sizes. I’m going to write them a letter and tell them that. I’d like to hear more about My Image and what that is about. Thank you for putting out such a great article and all the work you’ve put into it. I appreciate it a lot.
I totally understand that feeling, Bonnie! I recently decluttered my sewing room and it was astounding how many back loaded projects and patterns I had,, when actually looking at them all. Also, you should definitely write to Burda about their sizing! In fact, I might do the same thing! They would automatically get my subscription $$ back, if they moved to such an inclusive model. Also, I’ll check out My Image and see if I can get my hands on a few issues. I’ve been meaning to look into them, as well. Thanks for the excellent suggestion!
I’ve been following your posts on Knipmode with some interest over the past year and I’ve been REALLY tempted but I have say after this post I’m getting positively serious. It sounds like an incredible bargain truly. As someone else remarked you can get the translation done on google translation so really there is no reason to hesitate!
I am so excited that you’re tempted to try it, Kathleen! It’s really changed my sewing, in a lot of ways, and provided boundless inspiration. At the end of this year, I’m actually getting rid of my Burda subscription, but keeping Knipmode, which feels like a huge step! I’ve been getting Burda (and becoming unhappy with it) for years. Google Translate isn’t perfect, but it definitely makes the process so much easier!
Trousers – can you tell me if the pants patterns are a European cut as opposed to the big 4 in the US? I have achieved the best fit of all from Burda but that was a few years ago and about 12 kgs lighter (sigh… grin).
Hi Bryden! Unfortunately, trousers are the one type of garment I haven’t used Knipmode for. I don’t usually sew (or, really, wear) trousers, so I can’t speak to their sizing with Knipmode. I suspect they are European cut, but that’s just an assumption. I’m so sorry that I can’t be of more help! If you’re interested in trying their trouser patterns, though, perhaps give one of their PDF patterns a spin? They’re relatively inexpensive and a good way to try out the magazine’s sizing.
Thanks for your reply….. good idea to try one of their pdf patterns….
I, too, subscribed to Knipmode this last year. I already subscribe to the English version of Burda Style, MyImage, and Ottobre. (Yeah, I know. I’m out of control.) I have loved a lot of the Knipmode styles and love that they are sized for us curvy ladies. 🙂 My other favorite is probably Ottobre. I will say, that I find patterns that I love in all four of the magazines (and some are really awful) and seldom buy patterns from the big 4 anymore. I do need Google translate for the Knipmode patterns if I get stuck on some of the trickier construction. (Google translate can actually be pretty amusing when it comes to dress making translations– sometimes you have to translate the translation.)
Mary, I’ve had similarly amusing Google translate directions! There was one particularly memorable one that instructed me to “strangle the collar,” which left me in fits of laughter. Also, I definitely need to give Ottobre another look. I’ve almost ordered their adult issues so many times, but still haven’t tried them out. How do you find their fit and sizing?
I love Ottobre. Their fit is excellent. (I should say, though, that I am tall and pear shaped.) I do have to make wide hip adjustments but other than that, I’ve been really impressed. The sizing is pretty extensive as well which really helps. I subscribe but I’ve also purchased a bunch of back issues. Just don’t tell my husband….
I’ve had similar directions for “strangling collars’. So funny. It makes up for having to stop and use Google translate.
Gosh, this is super tempting. Are you making that fabulous blue blouse that was on one of the covers? Something about having such inspiration come right to your door is very appealing.
Hey Jessica! I am definitely making that blouse. It’s actually on my cutting table right now! There’s really something to be said for having inspiration arrive at my door monthly. I’ve truly found that nothing gets me out of a sewing funk, like an issue of Knipmode. Thanks to the high production values, it’s truly like a half-and-half fashion/sewing magazine. Even when I’m not jazzed on all the patterns, I find inspiration in its pages.
I’m officially adding it to my holiday wish list!
I may dip my toes in by buying a few of their PDFs. Can anyone tell me if they are available in a AO or 36″ format or are they only for letter paper?
Hey Kyra! I started off with their PDFs, but it has been over a year, since I first bought one. At the time they didn’t offer A0 format, but I can’t say for sure that’s the case now. I’ve just trawled their site, but haven’t come up with the answer yet.
Thanks for looking. I checked there first and they don’t seem to say. I know it is pretty rare to have easy access to a great big printer.
Hi Kyra, the pdf’s are not available in A0. Printing large formats is extremely expensive in The Netherlands!
Thank you, Marianne! It is pretty outrageous here unless you have a friend in an architect’s or engineering office. In an exuberant fit of pique, I just bought a 36″ printer. By the way, I love your Knipmode reviews.
Oh! I found it – Two blocks!
“Knipmode’s patternmakers work with two different blocks for each pattern: One for sizes 34-44 (B-cup), and one for sizes 46-54 (C-cup). Grading steps are different for both blocks (see the size chart below). Garments are then sewn and tested on fitting models for standard sizes 36 and 46.”
I tried really hard to like Burda, and the stuff from 10 years ago was good, had cool details, and was innovative. The recent stuff has been incredibly boring, no details, and way too junior. Maybe that is their market now. Kids that want to cut three holes in a pillowcase and call it a shirt. Done in an hour! Ugh.
So glad you found it, Leigh! I have been so annoyed with Burda, as well. They do the same patterns over and over again and, often, they’re just deadly dull. I love that Knipmode has a wide variety of design aesthetics. It totally suits my need to change up my style!
Do you trace off the patterns, like one would for Burda? (Big sheet, multi-colored lines, etc.) How are their instructions? Burda-like? better? worse?
For the ones that you’ve made, how has the sizing been? I was a bit skeptical that they might have sized up from a US size 10 up to a US size 26 (but in Euro sizing). And that wouldn’t work.
I do love that they make all the patterns in all the sizes. There is nothing more annoying than finding something cute two sizes too small.
Hey Leigh! I saw that you found the sizing answer already, but as for tracing… They are trace off patterns, like Burda, but they seem to have less patterns per sheet. I don’t find the task nearly so arduous with Knipmode, because there’s more white space on the pattern sheets. It’s so much easier to find the correct lines!
Also, the sizing is on two blocks, like you found. They definitely run true-to-size, in my experience, with a modern amount of ease. I do make an FBA with all of the bodices, though, because they do draft on that smaller cup size.
Hi Leigh, there’s no need to be skeptical about the plus size drafting. Knipmode has over 45 years of experience with plus size patterns in regular magazines and special issues. In fact, the plus size specials have always been very popular, which may have influenced last year’s change to all patterns in all sizes.
Thanks for the info I knew nothing about this magazine and have been disappointed with burda . .Sounds like a good fit for you. I think I will subscribe also. Thanks again.
I’m glad this post was helpful, Jean! I too was disappointed with Burda and this has been a worthy replacement. I hope you have a similarly good experience with it!
I think Burda overheard somewhere that recycling was a good thing and rather misunderstood.