Pants.
I know, they can seem a bit – how do I put this mildly – daunting? Overwhelming? Worthy of ignoring or skipping? As a curvy sewer who is also tall, pants scare me. But, I’ve made them before. Sure, I had a little less hip and a lot less momma tummy when I did it, but I loved the result. They fit perfectly. They were wide-legged, and I wish I had a photo of them. Sure, I messed up on the zipper, but I was 23 and still learning how to sew. I wore them proudly to work (with a shirt that covered the zipper) and no one knew I’d made them.
When I saw that there was an opportunity to pattern test a pants pattern that went up to size XXL, I jumped on it. Palazzo pants, for those who are not initiated, hang from the hips and flare out, with wide legs. I was selected for E-Beth Designs pool of pattern testers, and in exchange for giving notes on what worked and didn’t work with the pattern as it was created, I was given the Parisian Palazzo Pants pattern to test.
I was a little nervous, as the hips were 51″ on the pattern, and my hips fluctuate between 50″ and 53″ depending upon the day. Yup, it’s frustrating, but I’ve learned to work with it! I had a great green silk-linen blend that I’d picked up at a thrift store that I wanted to use on the finished version of the pants, but before I cut into it, I wanted to be sure that the pants pattern would fit me. So, I found this less than savory plaid fabric that I had gotten in a mixed fabric lot from ShopGoodwill.com. I kept thinking, “Gee, this plaid is so ugly… I don’t mind cutting up as much of it as necessary to get the fit right.”
So I cut up the plaid. I didn’t bother to try to match seams, because you know… I was just doing it for fit. I didn’t even check to see what thread was on my machine! Like a mad woman, I sewed through the middle of the night.
Oh, I didn’t mention that I’m a middle of the night sewer? Yes, well sometimes, you see, I get terrible insomnia and I stay up all night sewing. This was one such night. My husband was asleep. My teenage boy was asleep. Even the baby was asleep. There was no one to behold that which had become the giant awesome plaid pants.
Somehow, I managed to match the plaid (I don’t know how that happened). I wasn’t trying. I was stunned. I put the pants on. I checked the fit. They were a bit tight on the sides, and the rise seemed a bit low – but I figured I’d be wearing them (because at this point I decided the plaid pants must certainly be worn, curvy woman or not, to make manifest the true glory that was the plaid pants) with a fitted shirt since they were loose. I went back to my machine, and hemmed the legs. Bam! I was done.
And everyone was still asleep. I tried doing the selfie in the mirror thing. I captured the picture of them on the couch. But these were begging to be photographed. FINALLY, my son woke up for school. I shoved the camera in his hands and led him outside, half awake.
I had my Valentino birthday shoes on, and I was ready to go. Click, click, click, and the fit pictures were done, and I sent them to Elizabeth. I was really happy with the fit, but made a note that when I’d make them again in the green fabric, just for my own comfort’s sake, I’d make them slightly longer in the rise and add a little bit to the hips.
Once the pattern was released, still so excited about my pants, I posted some of my pictures on Facebook. A lot of people liked them, but it only took one person, one comment, to burst my pants bubble. I’d been calling them my happy pants, and then bam:
“No woman should wear that much plaid.”
I felt crushed. This came from a very dear friend, and it was couched in “You’re very talented…” My happy pants had suddenly caused me to feel a very real sting. They’ve been sitting in the closet ever since. I still really love them… I just worry about being judged for wearing them.
I had this experience with my plaid pants in mind when I went to begin the green version, the “real” version. I had noted that the fabric was really lightweight, so I decided that I would line them. I added 2 inches to the pants in the hips and an inch to the rise to make them come a little higher up on me. Then, I cut the same adjustments out of the lining. The very first thing I managed to do was sew the lining shorts (I didn’t want the lining to go all the way to the ground because I liked the idea of them looking wispy) in the wrong spots… so that somehow I’d managed to make both legs into one big tube. Don’t ask me how I did it. These became the pants… the Green Pants of Seam Ripping.
Once I got the lining squared away, I was ready to work on the pockets. I had this bright idea that I would use some leftover white lace fabric I had on the pockets. I love the way it looks now, but I don’t even know what I did there either. I managed to somehow get it all uneven… and yup… had to rip out the seam. Gah! Arg! So then… finally, I got the pants made… except… the waistband topstitching was all wonky AND I trimmed the seam allowance on one of the legs too close to the stitching and it tore out.
As you can see, this was all human error! It’s because I kept thinking, “This is an easy pattern. I made it once before. I can breeze through this!” In the end I put the pants on time out. They sat, next to my sewing machine, while I made three shirts, a purple sweater dress, and several things for my daughter and son.
Finally, I pulled them out and looked at them. I had to fix the spot I clipped into the waistband somehow (there’s a little hole in the fabric there). I mended it with some fusible interfacing and another piece of fabric behind it. You can barely notice the problem. At least, that’s what I tell myself. I decided not to rip out the waistband as I’ll have it covered with the waistband of my shirt anyway. I love the lace pockets though, they’re a really nice detail. I fixed the seam, and hemmed the pants. And bam, they were done.
Sometimes, you just really need to take a break from a certain garment before frustration causes you to try to “power through” it and you damage it. I learned a lot of things from making the pants. When making them, I strongly recommend making at least a quick muslin to check for the fit. The plaid pants surprised me because they had a lot of ease built in. I probably should have only added one inch to my green version, but I wanted to be sure that when I sit they would still be comfortable and wouldn’t tear, since they’re made of a much thinner woven fabric. They are loose and I should probably fix that. They also do a weird thing around my crotch that the other pair didn’t do. I am honestly not sure how to fix that. I think it might be the fabric since the thread did weird things while I was sewing it.
I really liked the plaid pair and I don’t know how I managed to work them so well. I really do not like this pair. I think that if I were to make them again, I wouldn’t adjust the width at all from the original pattern. I also wouldn’t use this fabric again. I think this fabric is going to be relegated to the land of purse interiors or something else. I may even harvest these for fabric for another project. Anyway, these were the Green Pants of Seam Ripping, and frankly, while the pattern was really easy to use, and I really liked my quick and dirty fitting pair, this pair gave me nothing but headaches!
And seriously, if anyone knows how to fix that awful thing going on with the crotch, I’m open to suggestions! I like the idea of dressing these up or down…
The plaid comment . . . ignore that. Have you seen my closet? Mostly plaid.
When I first started making pants I had the smiles in the front too. What I did was buy a few versions of mid range twill to start making pants . . . I wanted to figure out the crotch issue on something I’d wear and not just a muslin. I worked with a McCalls Cargo pants pattern until, well, I got it. Point: just keep rolling with it.
My recent pants foray was a disaster (it’ll be up on here soon).
I adore the plaid pants. You look stunning in the plaid pants. Wear the plaid pants!
The plaid pants are useful because the lines of the plaid provide clues to where the fit could be improved. Anywhere the lines are not horizontal or vertical means the fabric isn’t hanging straight and the pattern can be altered to work better next time. I think you could get a lot out of the video pants fitting class on http://www.patternreview.com, taught by Sarah Veblen. The crotch length advice in other comments is a very good starting point. Good luck!! I can see Palazzo pants as a very nice silhouette for you.
Excellent, thanks Robin! I will check that out.
Okay, so the crotch is a bit short. But those plaid pants are giving me life!!! I love them.
Thanks! Y’all have convinced me that I need to bust those guys out and wear them the next time I go out in the world!
I love Palazzo pants! And really, I love the plaid, too. It looks like we have similarly shaped bodies, and I have always found pants to be a tough fit. But when I discovered the FTA or “Full Tummy Adjustment” – My pants fitting woes were over! As well as my “smiling” pant! I also still need to add some crotch depth to my pants as well, but the FTA is my bestest friend. Its a slash and spread across the belly, so you are adding fabric over the full tummy, but not to the rear, and you are not adding too much to the rise. Its like an FBA for the tummy. So that you are not making pants that are too big, just a little fuller where it counts. I think I will look forward to trying out those pants!
Excellent. I like the FTA – and YES! I need to have just a little bit more for my momma tummy and I think all will be good with the world LOL
You are testing a pattern. For your return to pants, I suggest a proven pattern. Burda has a fantastic pant draft and drafts for plus sizes. I would try a pair of them first. I made a plaid pair of Burda 8087 http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/janina
They have an L shape crotch curve and I did have to add a little on the front.
pants! ahh! daunting! you give me hope!
Thanks for sharing this post, especially since your green pair still has “issues”. Now so many have given you great advice that will help the rest of us with our projects!
Get your happy pants out of the closet and wear them. They look darling on you!
I like your happy pants. Do you think the funny front could be caused by a bias issue? The fabric not cut on the grain or something?
Thanks!
I don’t know. I laid it out on the grain…the lining may be a different story though…but that shouldn’t affect the outside?
I agree with others on the crotch length. I think you may also have caused yourself grief by adding inches at the sides. I was just reading this article last week about how to fix camel toe, and I think it directly addresses a bit of what’s going on here:
http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how_to_fix_a_camel_toe/
Thanks for sharing the link. That looks really helpful.
The green fabric is much more sophisticated but the plaid ones are much more fun. I hope you get your confidence back to get some wear out of them, even if it’s only around the house.
I’m just finishing my first pair of pants. I turned to the stashbusting facebook group for help as the trouser making class I signed up to got cancelled. There I discovered that my muslin also showed up too small crotch length, which sounded scary. I unpicked the U that is the top of the inseam and resewed it with much smaller seam allowance (the pattern I was using had 5/8″ sa so there was room to play). It didn’t fix the problem completely but it definitely made it better and gave me the confidence to do more alterations to the pattern. (In the end I extended the front pieces at the crotch by an inch horizontally and then tapered that down into the inseam. On my muslin I unpicked that area and zig zagged on long thin wedge shaped extension pieces to try it out. Worked a treat. Fingers crossed the proper pair I’m half way through work as well).
Well done for facing your trouser fear!
Easiest fix? Crotch gusset. Eldest sister (7-inches shorter then 6.0 Moi) refused to be measured. Our mother did her best–pants were excellent–but alterating prior to stitching? Nope. Spent a Saturday afternoon with Mom who, in a fit pique, shoved the pants in my hand with, “Fix. Them!” (Yes Ma’am!) I’m gusset savvy (survived RTW ‘alteration’ snafu–gussets Have a Purpose). With measurement ‘restriction’ in mind, I estimated gusset size, sketched a pattern (newspaper), pinned it to open seam and pondered. Increased gusset width-length, enlarged seam opening, cut fabric (scaps galore), inserted gusset, pinned it in place and machine basted it in place. Checked for smooth insertion (no tucks), adjusted stretch stitch length (12 per inch) and stitched. Trimmed edges (Mom swore by 5/8-inch seams) 1/4-inch, and gave raw edges an old-fashioned Stretch & Sew ‘over-cast’ finish. Pants fit perfectly. Worth the effort for fun summer slacks. Pattern designer? Pattern–And Illustration–need further work before full release. (Had a pair too; black poly, wore like iron, had 33-35-inch inseam–great with heels–and they were wonderful. Pull-on with shaped waistband that covered the elastic.) Plaid? looks great as-is. People who provide ‘helpful advice’? Got in the habit of replying, “Yes, you definitely cannot wear [garment style, color, fabric]. I, however, look fabulous!” You will hear the applause when your answer hits ever-increasing In-Boxes. Being Curvy is a Blessing, and not a Curse. Jogging? Try jogging a mile in a pool. One land mile equals 12 miles in water. Sane sense of accomplishment with far less lower body stress.
Scoop, baby, scoop! If you don’t think you’ll wear the green ones as is, then it can’t hurt to play around a bit. I’d be tempted to go back and scoop out the rear and front crotch curve. Just scoop a little at a time, and try them on in between. They might gets a little tight at the hips because you are loosing width to get more crotch space… but it might help you play around with what kind of adjustments you’d make next time? (By “scoop”, I mean resew and trim/clip the crotch curve, making it a bit more curved or L-shaped. Try on, then resew if it helped but wasn’t quite enough!)
I’m so glad you gave pants making a try – and just think of happy you’ll be whipping up pair after pair once you nail down your fit! (Seriously, I’ve made 15 versions of my fav pants pattern. You can never have too many happy pants!)
Now I want to know what that fave pant pattern is that you’ve made 15 pair of, lol!
Style Arc Elle pants – they are pull-on with an elastic waist. Swoon. You can see a bunch of pairs on me in this Me-Made May wrapup from last year… https://craftingarainbow.wordpress.com/2014/06/01/mmm14-wrapup-and-whats-your-blogging-niche/ 🙂
Hmmm…your friend might have meant well, but my first thought was what a b….c she is for ruining your happy pants! Its probably just me because I place great value on my happy items( I have happy socks, happy gloves, a happy scarf and a happy beannie) and none of my friends would dare spoil them for me. If I want to be a walking rainbow then its my problem! I love your plaid pants, actually think I need a pair of plaid pants or tights in my wardrobe too!
Girl, work those plaid pants. They looked awesome!!
Ronda, I agree with Cahmerette and Cathy. Your crotch seam length is too short. Cathy gives a great way to find out how much length is needed. Cashmerette suggestion of Pants for Real People will show you how to do the alteration. This is a common issue and I have to make this alteration or I will get those smiley lines. Usually I need to add to the crotch point. Once you figure out what you need to add and where you should be good to go for further pant sewing. I do think the color is wonderful and goes great with the striped top.
Nice job on plaid matching :-).
I like your plaid pants. The criticism was one person’s opinion and you can’t please all the people all the time.
The fitting issue is definitely with the length and possibly the width of the crotch curve. If you have scraps of material left over you can fix your pants. Unpick the top of the thigh seams across the crotch for about four inches each leg. Try on the pants again and see if they hang smooth, Try to use a mirror to see what width the gape is from back to front and cut a long diamond of fabric to match the hole and pin it in. If it works sew it in and no one’s the wiser. You are in effect adding length to the crotch.
I hope you wear the plaids again. They are happy!
The remark about “too much plaid” sounds like someone that doesn’t like plaid. Don’t let someone else’s opinion make that much difference to you! If you like them and like them, wear them! Maybe not if you are planning a visit with her that day, but enjoy them. Life is too short to give others that much control.
“Too much plaid” struck me too as this person doesn’t really like plaid. I like the plaid pants! If they’re comfortable, I’d go for it. If I was nervous that the short crotch would ride up, I’d wear it with a tunic to keep my bits covered.
Ronda, if you like full legged patterns, HotPatterns.com has some cool styles. The Tuxedo pant looks promising, and if you can find it, they had a Montserrat pant and tunic that looks really cool. I’m planning to make the tunic from it sometime, maybe during the tops month.
Thanks for all the inspiration with this post! You have inspired me to not be so scared about pants. Also, rock the plaid pants. Rock them! They look great on you!
Of course!!! I’m glad to have inspired you!
Thank you! I’m going to pull those pants out of the closet. I have a shirt pattern I want to work up to go with them.
Start at center front and measure to center back. Record that number. Now hold the measuring tape there again and sit down as the back will creep down. Record that number.This number is what you need to cover front and back successfully. Now measure center front to va-jay-jay junction and record that. That last number is the minimum you need for your front and when you take that number away from the sitting down back number, you have the back crotch length as well. These 2 numbers have to be plotted on your pattern pieces. You can start at the va-jay-jay junction and work up adding at the top waistband when you get there or start at the top and work down but you will have to re-draw the curve which is not as easy and you will drop the curve and end up losing the width at the top of the leg which we all need. Do the same with the back, start at the junction and work your way up to center back waistband adding when you get there. Remember to add seam allowances to the top and crotch. You can also add an extra inch to the tops for more options (called wearing ease) which can be cut off later. Adding to the entire front and back sections all the way across to the side seams will relax that fit enough to see where you are going. The waistband and pockets are not affected. You may find the total number is 31 with 13 inches in front and 18 inches in back…we all have a magic number, once you record yours, it won’t change much unless there is weight loss or gain. Our pelvis and waist depth control these numbers. Good luck!
Thank you Mrs. Mole. I have the same problem. It’s great to get specific instructional advice.
It’s a good place to start and your measurements are as individual as your finger prints…well almost…ha ha.
Goodness, thanks so much for all of this. I will do this! I want to conquer pants and get them to fit well. Thank you so much for writing this out for me.
No problem, Ronda. I use my measurements to make leggings too so they work for wovens and knits if the knits are stable.
I’m not an expert (with one PJ bottoms and one pair of jeans under my belt!), but I think it’s a crotch length problem. I really recommend the “Pants for Real People” fitting book – it has lots of illustrations of common problems, together with the solutiosn!
Thanks – I’ll have to snatch up that book.
The crotch is too short on both pairs of pants, it just seems less obvious on the plaid pair (which I like, BTW.) Measure from the waistband of your pants at the small of your back through your legs to you waist at center front. Compare this measurement to the combined crotch seams of the pattern, remembering your seam allowances. Since it looks to me as though the front is where you need length, you can try ‘splitting and spreading’ at the center front until your pattern gives you enough length.Those wrinkles in the legs are known as ‘smiles’ — they indicate there’s not enough fabric. ‘Frowns,’ on the other hand, tell you that the pants are too big. HTH.
Thanks! Yeah, the front…is where the length is needed. I *think* they look fine from the back, but the front looks well it’s got smiles ;). I seriously appreciate all the advice.
I love your plaid pants and would say ignore the person who was derogatory about them I am a 5ft 1in plus size and once made myself a pair of pants in a blue wool plaid, I loved those pants and they were much admired when I wore them to work. I suspect the weird crotch thing may be that the fabric is too fine or may have been cut not quite straight, this happened to me once when I made a pair of pants in a suedey fabric, a weird crotch thing went on and I discovered the cut was not quite straight. (Sometimes some fabric decides it is not quite right for pants and had probably seen itself in a much different garment.). I love your lace pocket idea.
The fabric is really lightweight, and the thread was sliding through on my first-go through (causing the pants to gather) so I had to fix the tension… so that may be at work here as well as the fit issue.