Today, I’m writing to not only share my love and admiration for Bootstrap Fashion patterns, but to also give you some tips and tricks that I have learned through trial and error so you can succeed from the beginning and learn from my mistakes. I’ve always been excited when someone else helps me and I’m thrilled at the chance to help other sewists find the happiness sewing and the wonderful fit that we all know is possible. Really, it’s not a unicorn. I promise.
(Please note: I tend to be very direct and somewhat humorous with my wording. This helps you get what you need quickly. So please, know I mean no disrespect, nor harm. Most of the time, I’m making fun of my own body or flaws in an effort to not be so serious.)
What is Bootstrap Fashion and What’s All The Fuss About?
Bootstrap Fashion is an outstanding tool for any seamstress. In short, you enter your measurements and out prints a pattern custom drafted to your exact size. Did you read that right? Exactly your size? Yeah baby. It’s all about you. Like, are you super excited right about now? No? You want some proof that it won’t be yet another pattern that you’ll have to make umpteen bajillion changes to get it to fit you? Yeah, ok. I did too. Let’s get started, then!
Getting to the patterns on the site can be a little confusing. They have many great options and their offerings continue to grow. What we are going to talk about today are the Custom Fit Sewing Patterns. Ed Note: Bootstrap Fashion also has some helpful videos walking you though their process. Combine that with Gwen’s incredibly helpful tips and tricks and you should be golden!
To get to this section, navigate as follows: Go to BootstrapFashion.com –> Sewing Patterns (pink button) –> Custom Fit Sewing Patterns (upper left corner) –> Now, browse the patterns until you find a garment you’d like to make.
My Experience with Bootstrap Fashion
Since being introduced to Bootstrap Fashion by Kelly Hogaboom in Spring of 2016 with her Tea & Crumpet Sew Along, my sewing world has opened up and I’ve rapidly been able to create excellent fitting garments for my highly curved body.
I am curvy and athletic. To illustrate how much Bootstrap has helped and why I’m such a huge convert, here are the most common alterations I have to make for any pattern are:
• full bust
• full bicep
• sometimes broader shoulders
• small waist (I’ve had as many as 15” difference between waist and hip)
• sway back (oh dread! This has been my nemesis and I avoided many patterns for years because of this!)
• protruding rear (which is also a bit low too)
• unusually short front crotch length
• full thighs (my thighs measure the same as my full hip)
• knock knees
• protruding calves
Whew! I’m tired just writing all those. That also made me tired to sew because it meant HOURS and WEEKS of prep and alterations, and muslins to hope that maybe, someday, if I was really good, something might fit. At times, things felt dismal. This was even after having taken a moulage class, drafting patterns for years, etc. I had plenty of experience. But still, it wasn’t coming together for me. I kept feeling like if I could get an accurate and precise fit, then I could adapt it to any pattern in my stash.
Thanks to the Bootstrap Raglan I just posted, which was a half success, I just did that on the Toaster Sweater Version 1 I just sewed up all over Instagram. And I didn’t even fuss over alterations! How great is that?!
Selecting a Pattern
Selecting the proper pattern to fit your curves is key to success. Choose similar garment styling that you know flatters your figure or better yet, that you *feel* good in. There is no better piece of clothing to wear than one you “feel like a million bucks in” as my Grandma used to term the phrase.
If you want to explore your own style, there are many people out there who can help you hone down what suits you best. I really enjoyed Colette Pattern’s Wardrobe Architect. It helped me figure out that I truly am an athlete at heart and I dream of living in clothes that emanate the surfer girl lifestyle. I spent years telling myself I couldn’t have such a wardrobe because brands like Roxy and REI didn’t carry cute surfer chick clothes in plus sizes. Fart on that! I deserve to dress any dang way I want. And the more I only have clothes I love, the more I feel good. The more I feel good, the better my life is and everyone around benefits too!
If you don’t know what is flattering to your body type, please check out the amazing and brave women I admire who have posted in the CSC’s “Sewing for Your Curves” series. In short, if you are an hourglass/pear shape like me, choosing a dress that has no shaping and no darts is probably still going to look like a big bag on you. They always do on me. I don’t like straight clothes because I am so short waisted that I just look wider. Check out this Bootstrap woven tank. It’s a total “ugh!” for me, but might be a “woo hoo!” for the gal who loves straight, loose lines in her garments!
I think that choosing the following in my Bootstrap garments has helped me succeed quickly: princess seams (I cannot stress how useful these are. Look back at corsets through history: There’s a reason they have so many seams! Seams adapt flat fabric to curve the best way possible!), bust and waist darts (these fall second to princess seams, but they too have worked out brilliantly for me), A-line or trumpet skirts, waist bands or waist seams (any style that accentuates my waist).
What hasn’t worked for me in Bootstrap are the same styles that don’t work for my body in Ready to Wear or other patternmakers. Things like… straight hanging, shapeless, boxy garments, lack of waist shaping, pleats in front of my belly (some bodies this looks amazing on, however, I kind of go in around that area due to my thighs protruding from years of swimming, so it adds bulk there on my body where I don’t need it) and low, low plunging necklines (see this v-neck dress for evidence of that). Even when they are drafted to my measurements, they still end up hitting below the bridge of my bra. I’m just not comfortable showing that much cleavage off unless I’m in a dance costume.
Taking and Inputting Measurements
Taking your measurements properly is super important! If you take them at the wrong height, wearing a different set of undergarments than you will wear with the finished garment, you may discover that your project isn’t working out for you. Use the Bootstrap diagrams and videos linked at the “?” on every measurement field to learn how Bootstrap is expecting you to measure yourself.
There’s no sense in changing how they want it measured. Because you’re ultimately putting data into a computer. So, garbage in, garbage out. We can debate with each other, but arguing with a computer is futile.
If you take your arm length from your shoulder and they say to take it from your neck, then your pattern will be all out of whack. I was using the “Pro-fit measurements” tab. Then, like I did, you’ll have to retake the measurement, go back the pattern, re-enter your measurements and reprint the pattern. Again. So, it’s worth taking extra time to measure properly and follow their diagrams. It helps to pay attention to those little details and not try to skim past them.
They have nifty adaptations for many of our typical alterations – belly, bust, etc. I highly recommend using them if your body shape is similar to their diagrams.
Use the fit adjustments (second tab). I have thought of myself as so far off the curve and so difficult to fit, that it took a long time to convince myself that these would even work for me. But guess what? 9 patterns out of 10, have been perfect for me. Why are these awesome? Because instead of having to be exacting about every single measurement, you can just say, “full bust,” “larger arm,” etc. How RAD and time saving is that?!
I will caution, using these generic adjustments doesn’t always work. On my rashguard, I tested a theory… First print I chose “standard” upper arm fullness and “balanced” shoulder width. Then I made the rashguard. The neckline pulls toward the shoulders. The sleeves are much tighter than I prefer. The second time I printed, I chose “full” upper arm fullness and “wide” shoulder width. I lay one pattern atop the other. This pattern is designed for knits. There was barely a scant 1/4″ difference between them in the aforementioned key areas.
The comparison tells me this is designed for significant negative ease and that the designer created the sleeves to be quite narrow. I can either increase my bicep measurement and my shoulder width by some rough estimation (20% increase) while leaving all other areas alone since they are working, then print a new copy and re-compare. Or, I could make pattern alterations with the already printed pattern.
I have attempted to print woven patterns using my measurements less 20% to account for a negative ease. However, my first attempt at that wasn’t quite what I wanted. I’ll blog about progress as I discover more.
Save your measurements with a date stamp. That way, should your body change, you’ll have an idea of where you were and if you need to update your measurements. I’ve been dancing for the last year and have actually seen some of my high bust measurement shrink a little. That can make or break a tight fitting garment!
Bootstrap makes this super easy! Once you enter your measurements and before you click purchase, choose “Save my Measurement.” Note, though, that this will take your browser away from the page and you may have to re-enter any non-savable things like “fit adjustments” and “seam allowances.” I found this out the hard way.
Be honest with yourself. If your bust is low, your bust is low. Don’t fight it. Don’t let society tell you it’s no good and don’t beat yourself up and choose some magical measurement that isn’t your body.
The beauty of Bootstrap is it’s printed to fit your body, your measurements. That means, when you find the right style and get the right measurements, you are gonna look outstanding. Girl, you are gonna shine like the diamond that you are! Every single one of us is a beauty. Every single one of us deserves to look glorious in her clothing. Every single one of us deserves to have a pattern that fits her body exactly as it is. Plus, think of the time you’re not going to spend in a dressing room or in a muslin beating yourself up! Choose to use your exact measurements and just suspend judgement for a little while. Take that leap of faith!
That’s super easy for me to say. It’s incredibly hard to put into practice if you’re still working through body issues. Know that I have spent years learning to love myself. It wasn’t until I made a paper tape double in Jan Bones class that I finally looked and saw my backside as beautiful. My first thought was, “Whoa, that’s what guys see in me. Huh. COOL! I guess I am beautiful.” And suddenly, I was able to look around a sea of other paper tape bodies and see just how beautiful they were too – old, young, curved, straight, hunched, bulging, one-side larger than the other. You are beautiful and worth sewing for just as you are right now.
Stay tuned for upcoming segments of this series on Bootstrap Fashion patterns. I’m planning on covering Printing & Taping, Fabric Layout & Cutting, Construction, and Fitting/Muslins.
Have you tried any Bootstrap Fashion patterns? When selecting a pattern and taking and inputting your measurements, how did your choices help you succeed or learn?
Thanks for reading!
~GG~
OH WOW! I didn’t know Boostrap Fashion existed!
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
They’ve got pants Slopers!!! Blue Jeans here I come! Yipee!
I’m confused. (Not an unusual state for me.) It lists the prices for downloadable patterns, which is a small amount
I can’t see what any other charges are for use of the service. It’s got to be more than what they’re charging for the patterns, but ai can’t find it. Can anyone help me out?
There is no additional cost. Right now Lekala has a sale for $1.99 until 01/03/2017. I learned about this through this website and have not looked back. 2 completed dresses, 4 patterns and more confidence in my sewing than ever. I have found that the simple addition of darts is all I have needed for a fabulous fit. I cam here looking for inspiration and you can bet I have found it.
Thanks for the information, Chris.
Hi! Shocked me too. “No way! Can’t be that cheap.” were my first thoughts. But it is. I usually pay $3.49 for patterns as I don’t want to spend time adding seam allowances. If you use their custom pattern designer, those patterns usually run around $6.99 each. Because you are making your own pattern (choosing design lines, length, bodice, sleeves, neckline, details, etc)
Be aware, Bootstrap is the US version and has Imperial measurements (inches) whereas in my experience Lekala uses CM or metric measurements. Unless you’re comfortable working with metric, I recommend sticking to Bootstrap. Feel free to ping me with any other questions.
Thanks, Gwen. I am now un-confused.
A quick warning for anyone with a large cup size: there are signs that Bootstrap does not perform FBA’s. Extra width is added all around, which in my case (H-cup) results in a ridiculously large back bodice and a front bodice that is too short. I’ve seen similar reports by other sewists with a large cup size regarding Bootstrap and Lekala patterns.
You are correct Marianne. I have a 9″ difference between full bust and underbust (generally wear an H-J cup) and have still had great success. The saving grace of Bootstrap for me is that even though I may need to make alterations, generally they are WAY, way, way less than any other pattern ever has been for me and my very curvy body. So I’m totally happy with making some smaller adjustments because the adjustments are fewer and farther between. 🙂
Have you tried using the following adjustments in Bootstrap (3rd tab I believe) to see if that improves the fit for you?
Bust: Full
Back Chest: Narrow
Front Chest: Wide
You must be reading my mind! I’m just planning a shirt right now. I would appreciate an article on matching up horizontal patterns. I tried the Craftsy Shirt class and the Libety shirt as well but my memory is poor so I’m happy to follow a long with you. Thank you.
What is everyone’s opinion on the quality of their construction sheets/pattern instructions? While I get that not all patterns are suitable for beginners I would like more than simple Ikea-style diagram sequences like you get with say, Style Arc.
They are quite nonexistant, like Style arc I guess (never made a style arc). But they offer people to pay them if they make instructions for them – so you get a part of the profit every time your instructions are downloaded… So I presume it will become better and better 😀
I also made the super cleavage-y dress!! Not for me! But I was very happy about the fit.
I think if they should make an alliance with Sprout pattern, that would be awesome!! Print a custom measurements pattern directly on fabric ; wow!
Thank goodness I wasn’t the only one with the “Yikes” feeling from the Cleavage-y dress!
Ooo a sprout alliance! Yes!
Bootstrap’s default instructions, for most of the Leko patterns at least, are – in my experience anyway – the same as/ Lekala’s; they are more in the form of an order of construction rather than anything else. No diagrams.
Really, though, if you’ve a little bit of sewing experience with ‘normal’ patterns, and have made a couple of garments from Burda magazine or downloads and have a decent reference book, you’ll be absolutely fine.
Every pattern I’ve had from Bootstrap or Lekala has gone together like a beautifully-engineered 3-d flexible jigsaw puzzle. In addition, I have found both Bootsttrap and Lekala to be very responsive to queries. Just choose something fairly simple to start with – always a good idea with a new brand of pattern anyway,
Curvesmart – Bootstrap has built their product on offering minimal pattern details and offering a pattern that is Open Source. They have stated in several things I’ve read that sewists are welcome to write and sell their own instructions. While that might not help you with sewing some of their patterns, it opens up a whole new business opportunity for the sewing community and allows people who write killer pattern instructions to float up and become successful. That also means it may take some time before that will be solidly in place for all of us who use their patterns as it will likely grow organically. In the software industry, I’ve watched many businesses only focus on the area that they do best and they allow others to pick up where they leave off. Bootstrap seems to follow that same philosophy. They aren’t instruction experts, they’re software experts. So they focus on being the best they can be at providing the patterns and allow others to write instructions.
I should also add that I am addressing some of the ways I get around lack of pattern instructions in part 3 of this series. 🙂
Thank you for this charming, funny, and informative post. I can hardly wait to try this for myself since adapting ready-to-wear can be so time consuming. So often I buy clothing just for the fabric & the cut that seems to be flattering but end up fussing with too many adjustments. My mother & grandmother taught me to “sew by eyeball.” We rarely used patterns! Just fitted fabric, pinned, cut & sewed. I like this idea. Wahoo!
Thank you so much! That means the world to me.
Ooo Maxx I can’t wait to see what you create! Have you chosen a pattern to play with yet? Sounds like your experience has you primed for patterns like bootstrap. I think you’ll find them incredibly freeing!
Great article, Gwen. And I look forward to part two!
Thank you SO much, Kelly!
Thank you so much for this post. I am so excited to check out this site and try their patterns. I was feeling pretty down this morning after spending the whole weekend sewing a brand new pile of very expensive donations to the scrap bucket…
I have such a hard time fitting my beautifully curvy body, but I think that Bootstrap might be the solution to my problems! Worth a shot especially after I see how beautifully your garments turned out.
Jennifer, when I read your comments I felt like the whole purpose of my post was achieved. You exactly why I wrote this post. To uplift and remind others that they too are beautiful and amazing. To help someone else feel good and feel like sewing again. I have felt very down about myself and because of so many who have helped me, I wanted to be able to in turn help someone else. I can’t WAIT to see what you make. Have you tried anything yet? Please share to the CSC facebook group when you do. Have a wonderful day and a delightful time sewing.
I’ve been using Lekala – which uses the same ‘Leko’ brand software and shares many of the same patterns as Bootstrap, but not the pro-fit facility or the designer patterns – for several years, and although I do occasionally venture to another brand out of sheer curiousity, I’m always happy to go back home to my customised patterns.
One note of caution before you get sucked into the Bootstrap/Lekala rabbithole – just because you can now easily get an affordable pattern to make a particular style of garment *and know it will fit* (which was a HUGE novelty to me when I first discovered them) – well, it doesn’t mean that you *should* make it … LOL ]
Doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t, either, as long as you have a cheap source of fabric and a good sense of humour … and no, I never wore the frilled tailcoat nor the backless, split-to-the-thigh evening gown, even though they fit so nicely …
Thanks for this: I am more curious about this company (I thought their line art looked really familiar from Lekala) than interested in what they have to offer. I have my block down, for the most part, and could make most of their clothes with the pieces I already have that work for me.
That said, in trying to develop a sloper for my sister, this would be ….a super swell tool to make an awkward conversation easier. It’s one thing to fit a client. It’s another to fit my big sister. I mean, I’m her younger sister, and you know how that works.
And if someone makes a better tool, of course I will buy it.
Yes, that can be incredibly awkward! We don’t want to hurt anyone’s feelings and each of us is at different levels of body love. I’ve felt the same for those close to me. Did you make a sloper for your sister? I’d love to know how it goes, especially since they recently offered slopers in various knit bodice weights and pants! The knit pull-on pant is one of my most made patterns ever! Please share in the CSC FB group if you’re interested. Love to see!
OMG, I too was sucked into the BSF rabbit hole. I have a few garments made that, like you, look amazing, but how many times will I wear an evening dress! I have easily over 30 patterns, probably closer to 50. So right you are! Which is your favorite bsf pattern? Which do you use the most?
thank you for your write up! I ordered a free pattern a while ago and never cut it out. I will try again. I have a sway back, and other fit issues that make it hard to find something that fits nicely on a me. I am short, high waisted and curvy with a full bust.
🙂 So glad you liked it! I love following you on Instagram. And ooo you sew a lot. I am excited to see your skirt sewn up. Have you picked a fabric? Was it the straight skirt?
I’ve used Boot Strap before and the other site, which in deference to your post, I won’t mention. Just a side note to your post. Every time you change your measurements and ask that it be reprinted, it costs you money again, so just wanted to mention this. I’m built a lot like you but have narrow shoulders and that messes with the computer as well. When I use my full bust of 48 the software assumes my shoulders are wider than they actually are and makes the neckline about an inch too big. So I now only use a 47 inch measurement for my bust and do a small FBA and it fits perfectly….
How much are the patterns?
Generally
$2.99 without seam allowance
$3.49 with seam allowance
If you use their design app > design your own pattern
$6.95 (discounted from $9.95 right now)
Oh that is a really good tip! It feels like once we figure out where our challenge areas are with bootstrap we kind of have to “trick” the software a little. The idea that someone like us with a full bust might only have to do a small FBA used to feel novel and unattainable. But with bootstrap it’s like, “Yeah… no prob. it’s such a small amount of work I can deal with a minor adjustment.” Do you feel the same?
Thank you so much for this article. I have heard of Bootstrap and have been intrigued by the comments I have read regarding the individual fit that can be achieved. I look forward to your series on this company’s programmable patterns. Your patterns from the company look great! Love your upbeat, funny writing style!
Thank you so much, Rebecca! <3
Thanks for the website info. I will try it. i also have to make many alterations to the patterns I purchase. I want to see if these patterns would work for me
Please do keep us posted on your experience! Do ask questions in the CSC facebook group if any issues arise as you’re plugging along. Or ping me on Instagram.
This looks amazing! I have gotten fairly good at making the adjustments I need for myself, but I get totally baffled and paranoid when I make garments for other people. Speaking of which, does anyone know if there is a service out there for menswear?
I just made a shirt for my mom and had GREAT success. I too get stymied by adjusting for others. Adjusting for my own body has been such a huge learning curve.
Bootstrap (BSF) does offer a few men’s patterns. They are expanding. Kelly Hogaboom has made a shirt for her husband with a BSF pattern. I’ll have a link to that in the end of my 3rd post of this series!
Gwen I can’t thank you enough for posting this amazing tutorial – so detailed, fun to read and see! and inspiring. I will definitely check out Bootstrap! I have been a returned to sewing sewer (I’m 62 and returned for my 60th birthday after a 40 yr hiatus) and live in an athletic/large busted body – tall, long legs, flat bum, square torso – I always joke that I’m a large rectangular box on stilts) so I too have lots of adjustments to make and its true after a while I open a new pattern envelope from a pattern company I’ve never used before with GREAT trepidation and sighs. Here goes a day just fiddling with LBA, length etc. So I’m off to bootstrap!
Aw, Kathleen! That is so nice of you and so exciting that you are sewing again! Which patterns did you choose to start with? How did they go? You’ve made some lovely things. I bet your bootstrap patterns will be even more amazing and help you grow as a sewist and bloom as a person (when you wear them and feel all yummy inside and out).
This is a completely biased response as I adore bootstrap patterns! I have about 30. Sometimes things do not work out, but that’s mostly due to styling or fabric choice.
However, the only button up shirt pattern I own that fits? Bootstrap.
Caveat: Some things will flummox their program. I have a very narrow neck atop a board back with wide set shoulders. If I input both my neck and shoulders in the regular fit adjustments, it doesn’t work. They email me saying I have to pick. Even using the ProFit measurements only gets me to 1″ too wide of a neck. Considering that most patterns I have 2-3″ of excess at the neck based on my high bust measurement, 1″ is much easier to fix!!
Regardless, I love their patterns.
You make a most excellent point, Chris! There was one pattern with a knot in the center that I tried and tried to order. But like you, my measurements got the software all hot and bothered and then it was confused and couldn’t print. I had no notifiecation, just no pattern. So I contacted Yuliya and I had to choose a different pattern altogether. I had forgotten about that until you posted your own alterations/adjustments that work with the bootstrap software. I’m glad they have the ProFit measurements for you! At least it’s minor and not major. That kind of how I feel too!
Funny how the software thinks, “no a body like this couldn’t possibly exist” but we do! Ultimately all that comes down to the rules that the programmers put in place. Hopefully if we write to Bootstrap enough, they may make alterations to some of their software rules. Who knows! Worth a try though.