If you’re like me, and you read a lot of sewing blogs, you might have noticed that it seemed like everyone and her sister has been sewing bras in the past year or so. We’ve seen a number of popular new bra patterns released by various indie designers during this time, and it also feels like my Instagram feed has been flooded with pretty bra and panty sets. Like me, you may have been tempted by these pretty underthings, clicked a link in someone’s blog post to find out more about the pattern…and been sorely disappointed that the sizing for the pattern only goes up to a DD cup.
So, for those of us whose cup sizes run closer to the middle of the alphabet, what options are out there if we want to jump on the bra-making bandwagon? In the rest of this post, we’ll take a near-comprehensive view of the sewing patterns available in large-ish band and large cup sizes. I arbitrarily chose to list patterns that are available in at least a size 40G (US sizing), since around that size, bra pattern sizing pretty much falls off a cliff (similar to how few sewing patterns were available above a 43″ (109cm) bust a few years ago).
Underwire bra patterns
The most common type of bra pattern (and also most common type of RTW bra) is where underwires help provide some of the support for your bust. An underwire bra may have a “full band”, where you’ll have a thin strip of fabric and elastic that runs under the cups, or a “partial band”, where the cups rest directly against your ribcage. Some “full band” patterns claim that the underwires themselves are optional for those who want more support, but in most bra pattern reviews that I’ve read, most women do choose to include the underwires. Because the underwires themselves are more vital to support in partial band bras, most partial band bras require underwires. Interestingly, most of my RTW bras (all purchased from a specialty lingerie store where I was professionally fitted) are partial band bras; however, most bra sewing patterns available for larger cup sizes tend to be full band bras.
Pin-up Girls (Beverly Johnson): Classic Full Band Bra
The Pin-up Girls Classic Full Band Bra pattern is the pattern demo’ed in Beverly Johnson’s bra-making class on Craftsy. It’s a fairly basic bra pattern and features seamed cups and plush elastic straps and sliders for strap adjustment. I have seem some complaints online that the cup shape can make some large breasts more pointy than the wearer would prefer. One of the nice things about this pattern (beyond being able to follow along via the Craftsy class, which nearly always seems to be on sale) is that you can also purchase kits specifically for this bra–a nice option for newbie bra makers. The classic full band bra is available in sizes up to 48H.
You can order Beverly’s bra patterns either through her own website in Canada (http://www.bramakerssupply.com/), her US distributor (http://sweetcupsbrasupply.com/) or her Etsy store (https://www.etsy.com/shop/BraMakingSupplies).
Pin-up Girls Classic Full Band Bra
Pin-up Girls: Shelley Full Band Bra
The Shelley bra is also from Beverly’s Pin-up Girls line. This is the bra pattern that I’ve seen consistently garner the most positive reviews from large-busted women. The cups have additional seaming and design options above the “classic bra”, and based on wearer comments, they seem to shape full breasts a little more nicely than the classic. The Shelley bra is available in sizes up to 48H.
Pin-up Girls: Linda Partial Band Bra
The Pin-up Girls Linda bra was the only partial band bra that I was able to find that’s available in large sizes. I have not seen many reviews of this pattern online; however, the cup shape and seaming appear to be similar to the Pin-up Girls “classic” full-band bra. The Linda bra is available in sizes up to 48H.
Pin-up Girls Linda Partial Band Bra
Needle Nook Fabrics (Anne St. Clair): Queen Bra Elite
Anne St. Clair, owner of Needle Nook Fabrics in Kansas, has been traveling the US for years offering bra-fitting and bra construction workshops. I took one of Anne’s workshops years ago and came away with a very well-fit bra. The pattern that she uses for these workshops is her Queen Bra Elite pattern, which is also available for purchase from her and her daughter’s (Monica Bravo) online shops.
I found that the pattern gave me fairly perky (for their size), slightly pointy breasts. The final bra was definitely supportive. I know that Anne will also support via email if you purchase/use her patterns.
One thing that I didn’t care for is that Anne has you construct your own straps with interfaced fabric. While I know that most of your support is supposed to come from your bra band, the reality is that you might not get your strap length perfect on the first pass, so it’s nice to at least have the option of having adjustable strap sliders. With some bra-making experience, I suspect that it would be easy to switch the strap type.
The Queen Bra Elite is available in sizes up to 48H.
Needle Nook Fabrics: Queen Bra Elite
BravoBella (Monica Bravo): Bravo Bra #2
When I took Anne’s workshop, her daughter Monica helped out with fitting and pattern adjustments. Monica herself has a small band/large cup size and definitely understood the issues that us large-busted women face. She has since struck out on her own with her own lingerie pattern line, Bravo Bella, which includes a multi-seamed bra pattern. I haven’t tried her pattern yet, but I do like the looks of it quite a bit (more seams are usually a good thing). I do believe that this pattern also includes instructions for interfaced straps rather than adjustable straps. The Bravo Bra #2 is available in sizes up to 48I.
Bravo Bella Bra #2
The Maya bra is a free(!) bra pattern available from a Romanian designer. You can download the pattern from her site and can choose from English or Romanian instructions. The reviews I’ve read on this one seem to be fairly mixed–it works better for some women than others. The great/unique thing about the Maya is that it’s the only bra pattern available in large sizes that I’m aware of that has an option for cut-and-sew foam, which is a nice option for those of us who work in overly air conditioned office buildings. The Maya bra is available in sizes up to 44J.
AFI Maya Bra
Soft bra/”bralette” patterns
One of the most popular bra patterns of the past year has been the Cloth Habit Watson bra, which is a soft bra with no underwires. Not designed to provide a significant amount of bust support, the Watson is available only in sizes up to 40D, although the smaller band sizes do have some larger cup size options. Granted, most of us with larger cup sizes prefer more support than the Watson provides, but I know that there are definitely times when wearing a light support bra around the house would be nice. I did manage to find two soft bra patterns that are available in large size ranges.
Well-regarded indie patternmaker Jalie has a soft bra pattern available in sizes up to a 50″ (127cm) bust. Their pattern even has a nursing option. I know that when I was nursing, a bra like this would have been a great option for bedtime. If I were going to try a soft bra, I’d probably choose the Jalie for testing the waters.
Jalie 3131 Bra and Camisole
Colette/Seamwork Mag: Florence Bra
Another soft bra option available in larger sizes is the Florence bra, released as part of one of Colette’s Seamwork magazine issues last year. With no closures, the Florence hasn’t been getting great reviews from larger busted women who have made it, but perhaps you could make some modifications to make it work?, if you really wanted to try it? The Florence is available in sizes up to a 54″ (137cm) bust.
Colette/Seamwork Florence Bra
Specialty bra patterns
Not surprisingly, there aren’t a ton of options out there if you’re looking to make a specialty bra for a large bust, but I did find a few.
Pin-up Girls: Nursing Bra Pattern
Now, I would never attempt to make a nursing bra, given that my breast size was like a moving target back in my nursing days. However, if your breast volume isn’t fluctuating wildly while nursing, perhaps you’d like to attempt to sew your own nursing bras? Pin-Up Girls Nursing bra goes up to a size 40I or 48F.
Pin-up Girls Nursing Bra Pattern
Pin-up Girls: Kerri Sports Bra
Speaking from personal experience, finding large-sized sports bras that are even reasonably supportive is a difficult and expensive task. Even with the wave of activewear patterns released in the past year, I could only find two sports bra patterns that go up to reasonably large sizes. Both are from Pin-up Girls, and neither had any reviews that I could find online. The first option is the “Kerri” bra, which has a view option of being a workout top and promises “no bounce”. The Kerri is available up to a 50″ (127cm) bust.
Pin-up Girls Kerri Sports bra
Pin-up Girls: Alison Sports Bra
The other bra is the Alison, which looks similar to my enell compression sports bras, with the exception being that the Alison closes with a zipper and not a set of hook-and-eye clasps. The Alison is available up to a 48″ (122cm) bust.
Pin-up Girls Alison Sports Bra
Final Thoughts
Have you tried any of these patterns? Which one(s) are your favorites? Are there any bra patterns for large busts that I missed in my roundup? If so, please share them in the comments.
If you just want to try sewing a bra, you can also use Kwik Sew K3594 – up to size 40 DDD and available from Kwik Sew for $3.99 as a download right now. I’ve taken both Beverly’s classes on Craftsy and made many bras, adapted from this basic pattern (including Full Band, Skinny Full Band, Font Closing).
I’ve also tried the AFI foam lined bra, but adjusted it to have a padded fabric covered strap, Make Bra foam lined DL02 bra (goes up to size K!). Next up are the Shelley Bra and Queen Bra Elite.
I wonder how difficult it would be to make the sports bra patterns into a swimming bra top. I am only a 38 D after having lost around 300 lbs. The one big problem I run into us finding a swimsuit that is modest, supportive for real swimming (not just lounging around the beach), and that can fit my disparate figure. I wear a 38 D bra, but my hip measurement is around 50. Even with two piece swimwear separates, I have trouble finding pieces that fit my needs. I want a bottom that is supportive to my hips and thighs, such as swim pants or capri’s. (Losing this much weight leaves a lot of flabby skin and I would feel better with bottoms that fit like thicker high-waisted leggings.). The other issue is finding a supportive top that contains breasts that float up in the pool. After exhausting my search of every swimsuit company I’ve seen online, I decided making my own would be the only way to solve this. I’m not an expert seamstress, but I have made clothing for myself in the past in addition to the numerous alterations to my wardrobe during my weight loss. I’m not sure about fabrics for this though. If anyone sees this and has experience with sewing swimsuits, please contact me at angistallings@gmail.com. Swimming and water aerobics are my favorite form of exercise, but I fear I can’t swim in a public pool without a better coverage suit. The “girls” are literally about to float out of my current suit and it isn’t the most supportive, either.
Congratulations on your weight loss! You must have worked very hard for it.
I can’t sew to save my life (oh wait, I once accidentally stitched up my finger while trying to replace a button on a coat, does that count?) although I was tempted to try making a lace triangle bra until I realised, very quickly, that double-Ds and delicate wisps of barely-there lace do not make bosom buddies (har har). The ONE exception is this gorgeous number by B by Ted Baker which I’m dying to figure out the ‘formula’ for – once I nail that, you can BET the contents of my lingerie drawer will be homemade before you can say “Wibble wobble jelly on a plate!” x
Jasiminne: Posh, Broke, & Bored
What a great round up, Michelle! My best friend is a professional bra fitter and she taught me a thing or two about fitting. She tells me (36HH or I) to always look for the three or four part cup that only Beverly’s Shelley bra is showing. That vertical part on the outside of the cup really provides a lot of support from the side and makes a lot of difference! I’ll skip the bra making, but here’s my two cents for those with a larger cup size 😉
What a fantastic and thorough compilation of plus sized bra patterns. There are a few I’ll definitely try soon. 🙂
Cheers!
M
http://www.saskstitches.ca/classes.
In Saskatchewan Canada every year Beverly Johnson comes to a little town called Humbolt Saskatchewan. She is there over a week teaching various classes. This year there is a beginner class, a Shelly bra class, a T shirt bra class, and a 3 day bra camp! The prices listed of course are all Canadian dollar prices.
The retreats are all held at an Abbey. Dormitory accommodations and great food is part of the atmosphere! You will never find this kind of retreat cheaper anywhere ! And I can tell you it is a lot of fun! You can sew into the wee hours and Beverly and her team are with you every step of the way!
I believe that they will supply sewing machines so you don’t have to bring a machine throu customs!
I went 2 years ago and would like to go again this year!
So for every Canadian dollar you spend it will cost about $.70 US. Great value. You would have to fly into Saskatoon , Saskatchewan.
I would personally arrange your transportation to the Abbey and back to the airport. There were 2 women from Washington state the last year I attended.
Hi. I’m a sewer in USA but I havent made bras yet. I would love to make real bras for myself and others.
Would you suggest starting with a kit? Any beginner bra kits you would suggest? I have a serger and a sewing machine.
I am large chested so I am not sure if I can find underwire in my size. I used to be a 38I but those bras don’t fit me anymore as they are to small and very tight. I am unsure of my current size.
Thank you very much!
I’m sure you can find the right wire size with Sweet Cups: http://www.sweetcupsbrasupply.com/
Sweet Cups also has the Pin up Girls bra patterns and kits for their patterns. 🙂 If you need help figuring out your size, their is a guide on the site: http://www.sweetcupsbrasupply.com/patterns/
Thank you! I will check that out!!!
I’ve been meaning to try the Seamwork/Collete one! I actually never use the hooks on bras. I slip them over my head.. haha So it seems the best option for me. If it doesn’t work out I’m glad to see there are many more for me to try! 😀
I have taken Beverley Johnson’s class here in Hamilton and it was great. We learned to make the classic bra. I have purchased and made two of the Shelley bras. I prefer the style, but so far the fit of the classic is better. But I plan to continue tweaking as I like the style of the Shelley better. I look forward to this month as I have two kits that need to be made up and I need a little push to get me going.
Thanks
Hey Sandi, are you in Hamilton? I live in Guelph! I run a Facebook group for GTA area sewists – we’re called the Toronto Sewcialists. Join the group if you’d be interested in coming out for a meetup sometime!
Thank you for your kind invitation. I do not drive anymore so attending meetings would be a struggle. But I appreciate your thinking of me.
Best resource ever! Thanks for putting all these options together, Michelle!
I admit, I read this post weeks ago when it was in the “drafts” queue. Such a good roundup, Michelle!
YAY! High five for including nursing bra options too!
I am very keen to sew my own bras. I wear soft bras a lot at home and at night. I find under wires dig in even if I’m fitted right and the non under wire structured type (like the old ‘cross your heart’ type) dig in under the bust. This is mostly due to the way I sit and my odd body not liking any hard strap, fabric or elastic. I am a 38E UK size (well, I assume I still am, I really should check my sizing as last time I was fitted was 5 or 6 years ago!) so I am extremely grateful for this post and for the additional links posted by my curvy sewing sisters. I shall look into this Craftsy class too as my starting point originally was going to be hacking some old bras and creating something like a bra jigsaw of bits that fit then trying to make a pattern from it! Hmmm, writing it down makes that idea seem much worse than I thought it was!!!
We’ve got reviews of two soft bra options coming later in the month that might work for your size! 🙂
Would it be possible to deconstruct a well-fitting but well-worn bra and make a pattern from it? This seems like a potential option for those who are very hard to fit.
I find bra-sizing very difficult. I have always been in a size range that is difficult to fit in stores. So I have to shop online, often ordering from overseas, while hoping for a reasonable fit. My measurements say I should be a GG or H in UK sizing, but I tend to choose a slightly smaller cup. I don’t know if this is because I don’t understand good fit or because there is truly more to it than underbust and bust measurement. I think part of my extreme difference between the two is that my back widens sharply above the waist and my ribcage is very V-shaped. Not all of the difference can be assumed to be breast tissue, surely?
Yes! We have a post planned on cloning a RTW bra.
Very excited about the lingerie series! I bought the ‘Elan Bra Pattern B520’ last year but I have not been brave enough to make it up yet. That’s not very helpful I know but it might be an option for some people? It has reasonable sizing options up to a 48 FF.
It is described as a “Back Closure Underwire Bra for the Full Figured Woman – Full-figure underwire bra features lace trimmed fabric cups, powernet or spandex back and 3 hook back closure”
http://www.sewsassy.com/BraProducts/elanbrapatterns.html#anchorb520
I’m determined to have a go this year!
Great round up, Michelle!
I’m a 38DD / F, and I’ve made the Kerri sports bra, and it is indeed ‘no bounce’. It’s very, er, structural. I wear it for running only. It isn’t suitable for other activities like yoga, because it is just too firm. I keep meaning to post my review to PR, so maybe I should get on that.
I’ve also made the Watson, and it was a disaster. Maybe my fabric was too stretchy, but it was uncomfortable and offered zero support. Not for me.
The Pin-up Girls classic, I’ve made 3. It is a bit matronly, but I’ve managed a pretty good fit now. I think instead of getting extra PUG patterns, I will follow the instructions in Beverly Johnson’s AMAZING Craftsy course(s) and alter the pattern into other styles. She teaches in the 2nd how to make a partial-band bra from your base pattern, and a whole lot of other styles as well.
Speaking of which, I’ve bought the kits, I should really get on that!
Please do post the Kerri review! I love the Jalie Cora bike dress pattern, but I have an overly ambitious dream of making one with a real sports bra underneath.
I’ll try and get that going! It’s the pictures that are holding me up. It’s so dark these days.
Yes, please do the Kerri sports bra review. I have had that one on my list for a while and would love to hear what you have to say about it.
Do you have a review of the Kerri sports bra anywhere? I’d be interested for me and my niece.
Great post!
I’m working on the Jalie 3131 soft bra now. It’s pretty good. I’ll be blogging about it soon. (www.calmundertension.com)
For sports bras, have you tried Jan Bones patterns? Her’s go up into plus sized ranges and are extremely comfortable. I adore my “close front” bra I made from her pattern. http://www.sewinglingerie.com/patterns/index.html
Thanks for sharing that! I know that Jan Bones’ book is well-regarded; I was unaware that she had a separate pattern line.
This is a great round-up. Wondered if anyone who has bra-making experience can comment on the cup size up / band size down grading ie that the cup on eg a 36b is the same as a 34c? I ask because I am a UK 34 H (which I guess must be a US 34J as we in the UK have ff and gg sizes) and wondered if I could use a 38H cup pattern with a 34 band?
Jennifer, I have used what you are referring to make most of my bras! Just google “bra sister size” chart and you will come up with lots of graphics ;). I have a smallish bust but larger band size, which puts me out of the size range for the orange lingerie patterns, which I wanted to try. Basically, the sister size chart tells you cup sizes that have and equivalent volume. So, if I measure to a 42C in a specific pattern (that only goes up to band size 40), I can make a 40D sized cup because it will have equivalent volume. Then, I just added those 2 inches I needed to the back band for the 40D sized pattern, and voila, I have made a 42C size bra. Hopefully that is clear, but let me know if you have any questions!
Thank you Megan, that’s the answer I was hoping for 🙂
The Maya looks great, and her tutorials are brilliant too! I’ve downloaded & printed it already 🙂
I’ll be reviewing it later in the month for the CSC. Can’t wait to see yours!
In the latest Orange Lingerie newsletter Norma has hinted at an upcoming expansion in sizes to the Marlborough bra!
Hmm, that may get me to try it! I’m right on the edge of her sizing as it is.
Awesome post-thanks!
I’m loving this series! Great post and nice list of patterns to try.
Merckwaerdigh does one larger sized pattern – https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/212109026/sewing-pattern-efg40-for-bras-cup-e-f-g?ref=shop_home_active_20 which goes up to 42E (UK size). She is also incredibly helpful with regards to adjustments, I have small-band-large-cup issues and she offered very detailed grading suggestions for one of her other patterns that didn’t go up to a large enough cup. Would recommend her for good quality patterns as well as really lovely kits!
I just checked her etsy shop, and found two patterns that meet that description (CUPL16 and EFG40), and another in smaller cup range that is made for 38 to 44 band sizes (BHL15). Her blog (https://merckwaerdigh.wordpress.com/) also offers a lot of information/tutorials related to lingerie making.
Great list, Michelle! I’ve been wanting to get the Kerry Sports bra for a while. You just reminded me about that. 🙂
I still have flashbacks to my Florence bra experience. LOL. Shudder.
Yeah, my success with some of the seamwork patterns has not been high. I may try the florence, but… I may just stick with the Jalie 3131 soft bra thanks to you and “green violet”. 😀
My success with Seamwork has also been low. I tried the Geneva panties and also had issues that made it not worth it. I just read your blog entry on that.
Definitely stick with the Jalie 3131. It’s a lovely pattern! 😀
I so, so wanted to link to your Florence review when I wrote this up, but I tried to keep things as neutral as possible. 😉
Good plan. My review was not neutral! 😉 I can see the Florence working with _major_ alterations, but it’s definitely not going to work based on the pattern instructions.