Good morning, kittens! Today, we’re taking a behind-the-scenes look at Simplicity Pattern Company with Simplicity’s Design Development Director, Deborah Kreiling and the Senior Design Director, Bonnie Simmons. We’ll dive deep into Simplicity’s newest patterns, from concept to design, and talk about what’s next from Simplicity in plus sizes.
We’re thrilled that Simplicity has recently expanded its plus size line of patterns. What motivated the decision to offer more plus size designs?
Simplicity has always offered a selection in the plus/women’s size range. These patterns were offered in two ways: as a design in the plus sizes ranging from 18W to 32W (which included designs from recognizable plus size designers) and as a design shared with the Misses’ size pattern. Coupling the Plus size patterns with the same design as the Misses designs proved to us that there is an audience for the wide range of fashion in all sizes, as it is seen in the ready to wear market. Having been successful with these coupled designs allowed us to then react and reinstitute the full range of the Plus size range, once again offering patterns from 18W through 32W. Happily this collection is being noticed by pattern enthusiasts and as a result we are going forward to an expanded size range that will include 34W, and possibly more in the future.
Plus size patterns have earned a reputation, historically, for not being as fashion-forward or exciting as their straight size counterparts. How do Simplicity’s new patterns break this mold?
Everyone wants to sew what they see at retail, on the runways, red carpet, movies and TV.
Our goal as a pattern company is to deliver all of this as a home sewing pattern equally in all of the categories and size ranges we can. Fashion silhouettes change from season to season and we want to be able to supply all home sewers, new and experienced, with patterns so they can create items and garments. We have taken a very specific and directed look at who is wearing what, so to speak and we saw that everyone wants to wear what they want to wear, no matter the size, age, shape, etc. We have expanded the design input to meet these needs and pay very close attention to filling these collections to meet the needs of the consumer.
Can you take us briefly through how a Simplicity plus size pattern is conceived, from initial idea to final design? We’d love to hear more about the creative and technical process behind your patterns.
As in the design process for all of Simplicity’s patterns, the input is based on many variables, fashion trends being of course the major influencer. We produce more than 200 new designs annually and each one is developed to fill a very specific slot in the overall collection. We have many “customers” out there in the sewing universe and we feel very strongly about meeting their needs. That said, we select a line based on time of year that it first launches that includes sizes ranging from babies through men, and categories ranging from fashion apparel, crafts, costumes, home decorating and accessories. Each line is reviewed for the ability for Simplicity to be able to produce it within our time and production standards and equally as important for the ability of the home sewer to be able to produce a finished garment or item as the designer intended. There are many steps that each pattern design goes through to get that picture on the printed catalog page and to get the pattern tissue into the envelope. Pattern making and testing each garment is the very beginning of the pattern process, but there are many other steps that happen before that, including choosing fabrics for photography and art figures, models to be used for the photography, page layouts, and then processes including technical art for each item, written and illustrated instructions and pattern grading to the multiple sizes each design if offered in. All of the parts must come together before the catalog, envelope, pattern tissue and instructions can be printed and shipped to the stores. Every step is done for every design.
How does the experience of designing plus size patterns differ from designing for straight sizes? Are there preferred silhouettes or fitting needs that Simplicity takes into account, when designing for their plus size customers?
While delivering an assortment of plus sizes for different body types and lifestyles, we do take several approaches. Throughout the design process the considerations are not only for the overall silhouette, but how to produce the pattern for best overall look and the fit requirements. It is important that we always also consider the fabric widths available and necessary for the specific design. Other than these ideas, the process and creative part really are the same for every Simplicity design. For preferred silhouettes and fitting needs, we have pattern collections that are geared toward supporting the home sewer as she is making here garment. These include separate pattern pieces for bust cup sizing and our Amazing Fit pattern collection, which not only includes bust cup pieces but slim, average and curvy figure type pattern pieces as well.
We were so excited to see that two of Mimi G’s new patterns were available in sizes up to a 28W! How do you decide which patterns get this expanded size range?
MimiG designs have been a wonderful addition to the Simplicity Brand. Mimi is an influential lifestyle blogger with a large following of sewists in all sizes and shapes. She designs patterns that she knows will reach the consumer and is very happy to be able to include the plus size gals in her design input. Currently there are six designs the latest catalog, with new input every time we input MimiG designs.
What’s up next for Simplicity’s plus size patterns? Are there plans to extend the size range or number of plus size patterns further?
We have added a size 34W recently and are investigating the possibility of adding even more sizes. In terms of adding designs, we are committed to continuing to enhance these collections going forward. We are very excited to announce that we have licensed Ashley Nell Tipton, the winner of Project Runway last season. Her designs will launch in the Spring of 2017.
Thanks so much to the Simplicity team for answering our questions! It’s always fun to get insight into the process behind the patterns we use and love.
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I’m so happy to hear Ashley will be bringing her designs to Simplicity–it’s always great to a San Diego woman succeed! I agree with L’Anne about the bra. To have someone who “gets” the fit issues for those of us who have been blessed with an abundance of womanhood is long overdue.
Interesting post, Mary! I like reading behind-the-scenes articles about pattern companies and this one is no exception!
Always fun to see behind the scenes posts. Have to admit was slightly disappointed to see the gorgeous Alice in Wonderland inspired costumes in this post only go up to 20. Those look like so much fun!
Didn’t love ANT designs on Project Runway but I’m excited to see what her Simplicity patterns are like.
I didn’t love Leanne Marshall on the show much eithrr but have bought quite a few of her patterns so I’m optimistic for Ashleys!
YAY! I’m super happy to see Simplicity listening to their customer base and widening their sizes offered! I wish they had talked a little more about their plus size block, but this is a fantastic start.
You are absolutely correct in your concerns about their current plus-size block. This is, IMO, where the root of the problem lies.
In addition. having truly-detailed measurement charts for each size would enable the more uniquely-shaped among us to have a toile or a pin-fit tissue which gives us a better starting point for the fitting process.
My issues of La Mia Boutique Taglie Forti, for example, offer not only standard bust, waist, hips and length for each size, but also front and back bodice lengths, shoulder width, crotch and armhole depth and bust apex height for each size. This level of detail – or more – actually makes adjustments and alterations *so much* easier, whatever the sewer’s level of ability.
All of a sudden your photos are not viewable (only the file names appear). I do not think it is in my system as I recieve dozens of email subs daily and no other sources are having issues.
Hope this helps.
-Lynn
Open in your browser and the photos should appear. I had the same problem.
Based on past experiences this indicates a problem in the author’s blogging setup.
This is wonderful news–the 34W size expansion and Ashley Nell Tipton!
Ashley Nell Tipton is the lovely “more of her to love” size lady who won Project Runway (a USA-based clothing design contest reality TV show) last year. She designs for plus size ladies, and her designs are pretty and feminine. Her web-site is http://www.ashleynelltipton.com. Her designs are NOT the traditional blah plus size clothes we find at the stores. In her clothes, it is OKAY and even DESIRABLE to be plus size. There she was, with the other designers, who designed for stick-insect women and had size 00 models showing their designs, and there was Ashley Nell, with her plus size models, wearing her own designs as well. It looks to me like she has narrower shoulders like a real woman, and there is definitely bicep fluff, so I am sure her designs take these body features into account.
The CSC is a no-body-shame zone. Stick insect women is just as demeaning and degrading as the ridicule that people sling at larger women. I really wish that when trying to build confidence and esteem for plus sizes, so many people didn’t resort to throwing the same sort of demoralizing insulting language at our slimmer sisters.
Thanks for the link; unfortunately I have no interest in flowery hats or ‘button pins’ which is all I can find in her shop! I’ll wait and see what Simplicity comes up, without being overly optimistic.
The problem – as I see it, anyway – is not one that can be solved by a designer, however radical and brilliant that designer might be, but rather is one which – however it was or is originally caused – is now in the province of patternmakers, graders and fit models. If Ashley Nell is sufficiently forceful and technically knowledgeable to impose her will and vision on this department in Simplicity, we may all be in for a pleasant surprise. If not …
I suspect Ashley’s site only selling pins and hats may be related to the fact that she has a line at JCPenney’s now. She probably has a contract preventing her from competing with them.
I’m one of the people who was ambivalent about her collection for PR, and with her win (I had similar feelings about all of the collections). Basically she used a range of pastels and had a lot of design features that have been standard in RTW and on the runways for years– just not for plus sizes. So she had several crop tops. Many sheer or see-through lace skirts with visible panties. Most of her skirts were A-line, mermaid, or circle, and she included a few pairs of shorts as well.
Based on her output on PR and her line at JCP, she likes her pleated skirts, pastels, peplums, and “sweet” prints (like florals, dots, little bows). I think one could fairly describe her aesthetic as overtly and traditionally feminine with at least a dollop of twee. It is a style that speaks to some women, and to others, less so. Like basically every other designer out there.
Hmmm – pastel and floral is NOT to my taste, but if the bones of a design are good, then colour and pattern are irrelevant, as they can be changed at will.
However, even the *idea* of twee …. no, no, a thousand times no!
I am woman, hear me roar – I’m not a kitten on a chocolate box, with a bow around its neck!
Here’s a link to her JCP stuff
http://www.jcpenney.com/g/boutique-women/N-bwo3xZ1z0pvfj?redirectTerm=ashley%2Bnell%2Btipton
I actually have a few pics of her stuff from PR, but I don’t know how to post pics in a comment. Way back when PR season 14 wrapped someone her at the CSC did a review of her collection, and if I recall, it had a photo of each look in the collection. I think it wrapped last November? to look in the archive.
Twee does nothing for me either, but often what makes a look twee (to me at least) is in the styling, or how the model is posed or the color or print. It seems a lot of bloggers of are twee in their style choices wear circle skirts, but there really isn’t anything inherently twee about a circle skirt– that’s a standard skirt shape.
And as one of those women with broad, muscular shoulders and back, twee looks totally foolish on me.
Just a little clarification: ANT’s designs for JCP are part of their Boutique + line, and in the link I posted, her designs are jumbled in with those that aren’t hers but still in B+. So you have to poke around and look for her name on the pieces. Here’s a yahoo image link to some of her designs from the show.
https://images.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search;_ylt=A0LEVjghXBJYULgAwVIPxQt.?p=ashley+nell+tipton+project+runway+looks&fr=yhs-elm-001&fr2=piv-web&hspart=elm&hsimp=yhs-001&type=hdr_s_16_23_bnk_dwndlm_15_07
Ashley Nell’s site does not sell her clothes nor her patterns. But it does show some photos of her designs – she has a line at J.C. Penney’s as well, that go up to 5X.
I agree with the previous poster. I hope Simplicity knows that even large women can have narrow shoulders compared to the rest of the body. We aren’t built like line backers, and we aren’t all tall! I had given up even looking at commercial patterns because it’s just too complicated to fit. Even though many patterns now have several pattern pieces that can be sewn together like a princess seam across the front…that makes it more cumbersome to sew for me, not easier….
Betty, I assume from your comment that a line backer is built like a rugby player ie a tall young man of large build with broad. muscularly-developed shoulders and back, who would find the typical plus-size armhole to be a comfortably-snug fit!
I applaud Simplicity for increasing their size range – but I do hope they won’t assume that fat women are taller than average and have shoulders like a rugby player, which has been a sadly-common experience in the past with their plus-size patterns.
Just one question – who on earth is Ashley Nell Tipton and where can I find pictures of her plus-size designs? I am not in the USA.
Loving that Simplicity is getting some Ashley Nell Tipton designs.
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Ashley+Nell+Tipton
This is a great post and now I am super excited for Ashley Nell Tipton’s designs! 😀 Thanks for the great post!
Can I just say that I hope at some point her Simplicity patterns includes bras? I thought she was robbed of a win on PR in the lingerie challenge. Her bra had a style that could easily work and be sexy for every size and the robe was cute too. (I don’t remember her panty.) I get why Merline’s bralette won, but Ashley’s fully functional bra for basically every size was the real deal. I’d love to see her do a bra or 2, especially with larger sizes’ fitting issues in mind, now that Simplicity is doing lingerie/ bras.