Dear pattern companies,
I’m afraid we’ve been rather disappointed lately. See, the CSC is full of fabulous women excited about sewing fantastically well fitting clothes that look amazing. But we’re being let down by the patterns available, and we would love to see changes. There are a lot of us out there – a huge market! And we really think that if you made some changes, you’d see business results. So today we wanted to share our thoughts and feedback.
First up: we’re not ashamed of our bodies and we don’t want to cover up or hide. No, we want to look fantastic by emphasizing and highlighting our shapes, whether that’s a lovely waist, bountiful bust or curvy bum. The “old rules” (if they ever really were there) about covering up with flowy shapes and dark colours are just that – old. We love colour! We love structure! The last thing we want to do is smother everything in yards of fabric.
And you know what we want to wear? The same as everyone else! There’s no magic line at size 12 that totally changes what women want to wear. Start with the assumption that we want the same fashions and trends as our smaller sisters, whether that’s swimsuits, trousers, blazers or even crop tops. Here at the CSC we particularly like structured garments with interesting seamlines and choices of sleeves and necklines, and there’s just as much variety in taste among women over a size 12 as under. What don’t we want? Items that flare out from the shoulders or bust in a tent or muumuu style, trousers that swamp us, gratuitous ruching or draping or other “clever” features meant to disguise. Of course there are some sewists who like these styles , but they are already very well catered for, so how about adding some more modern and fresh patterns for women who are proud of their curves?
Compare and contrast! (and bear in mind that the CSC editors on the bottom row are mostly bigger than the models shown on the top row….)
We’d love more common sense grading – the average woman is a D cup size, so why are so many patterns still being designed for a B? And we don’t get taller or wider shoulders or larger armholes as our clothes size goes up. We know that grading well for plus sizes isn’t always easy. But you know what: if you don’t do it, we end up doing it anyway! If we can regularly grade up our patterns without technical expertise, we’re sure you can too. And, there are plenty of graders out there and indeed pattern companies who manage to do it well.
Finally, for the big 4, we’re frankly a bit mystified by the current sizing choices. Why are some patterns available only up to a 22, others to a 24, then some suddenly bigger again? Why not start by providing all your patterns in the full size range?
We celebrate companies like Style Arc, Hot Patterns and Colette’s new knit line for bringing us fresh, modern patterns across a range of sizes. But then we also see many designs that still reflect the “old school” thinking of cover up and hide, and we think we deserve better than that. We’re ready and waiting to buy and sew new patterns that celebrate us!
Yours,
The editors of the CSC.
Love your letter to the pattern companies that just don’t get it! I ‘loved’ seeing that red Kahliah Ali abomination above that when I first saw it I couldn’t figure out what it was and what had happened to her arms. Who wants to wear something that literally looks like a sack. What a waste of gorgeous fabric.
I sell sewing pattern on line at Moonwishes Sewing and Crafts. I’m a plus sized woman myself so knew heading in that I wanted to make as many plus sized sewing patterns available to my sisters as possible. I found that many plus sized patterns fly off my shelves and it is hard to maintain an abundant supply of them, much less those from other pattern companies since I don’t source my patterns from the usual retail supply lines, although I would be happy to if those pattern companies would make them avaiable to me at a reasonable cost so I could earn something for my time. I have gotten desparate pleas for patterns for ‘Free Willy” sized women that could make you cry.
That being said, hint to those that have plus size men in their lives.
Patterns for our guys are even harder to find. I had a guy write and ask for a
size 10XL shirt pattern. The largest commercial pattern for guys I’ve ever seenis XXXL and that is usually a pair of pajamas, an occasional jacket and shirt. Very rare pickings. Apparently no one thinks that large guys care how they look.
I was thrilled to see the blurb about this site in the March 2015 issue of Threads Magazine and tagged it till I had time to look you up on line and I will be following this blog. I look forward to learning what I can, even as my sewing for myself has slowed down due to a chronic medical problem that saps me of energy – and need for much in the way of clothes other than nightgowns. Shopping for clothes saps even more out of me, so I know I will have to sew for myself for the rest of my life and I would love to get rid of the ‘dorky homemade look’ as my early sewing years were not ones of being taught well or even having a sewing resource to look things up in. Those times have changed and I have abundant resources for sewing, and the knowledge it is just getting my brain to cooperate.
I am new to this site, having read about it in my issue of Sew Today. I agree with all the comments above about the lack of styles for plus size figures. I used to be able to sew direct from the pattern but as I have got older and bigger I have lost confidence in dressmaking due to fitting problems. I thought it was just me losing my skills, but reading the comments above I see I am not the only one having problems. I love Vogue patterns because of the details and couture tips but the sizes just aren’t made for me. I hesitate to use indie patterns as many are only available in pdf form and the thought of fitting together many sheets of paper to construct a pattern fills me with dread. I have avoided Burda patterns because in the ‘old’ days they did not include seam allowance, also they came in so many sizes on the sheet that I got confused cutting out or tracing the correct size but perhaps they have these days. I look forward to reading the continuing discussions about this issue
Yeah! I whole heartedly agree that the pattern companies need to recognize that any lovely lady over a size 12 does not want to be shoved into a bag and meant to blend into the woodwork. Hurray for putting forth this conversation.
Even when my mom was sewing for me when I was little we had to make adjustments to patterns, which have continued as an adult. I have been blessed with linebacker shoulders (thanks dad!), a long torso and hips/dupa that just have a growth mind of their own as well as the upper arms my dear granny passed onto me (a two for one deal!). I have always been frustrated w/RTW, and have sewn for myself to supplement my wardrobe. It would be lovely if some of the frustration and guesswork for adjusting would be removed. I’d like something stylish that looks nice on me, clothing design that fits with the current trend and not have it be something draped or full of gathers to hide myself.
I have found that one of the big 4 companies patterns are forever “small” in my size compared to the others. Maybe it’s just my measurements, or perhaps the pattern that I find appealing, is geared to a smaller gal. I wonder if others out there have the same issue? And if so, do you tend to stay away from that company’s patterns? I’d love to see patterns geared toward particular shapes, I know that the 3 of the big 4 post shapes on the web indicating shapes good for, but I’d love to see more. I am a pear and am not one who likes to over emphasize the bottom. AND I’d LOVE to see a curvy woman modeling or sketched on the pattern front as well. This is what I love with your blogs, a real lady in her makings gives me an idea to try something I’d never take a second glance at, and I know have a running list to look at when patterns are $1 a piece!
I am still learning how to adjust patterns, I keep a small notebook of the tricks my mom has taught me over time on how to adjust to fit my crazy lovely body. It’s been a tad more difficult since kids as I am not one of those who had a body pull right back into shape, and each time it’s a new learning curve. I appreciate the ladies who are posting, it gives me confidence to keep trying and make things that look good. Now if only the pattern companies hear us, this part of life would be good. I look forward to seeing changes come when the spring patterns come out. I for one would love to enjoy a large pattern selection to peruse finally!
Best wishes on your new site – FANTASTIC!
I’m kind of in the borderline between plus and not plus. I bought the book mentioned in the posts dealing with fitting for plus sizes but realised this was largely ‘petite plus’ as was the range of patterns (still interesting but no use for me – even more alterations to do). At 5’11”, I’m far from petite! I don’t agree with another poster that patterns are designed for tall people! I have loads of alterations to make. Add to that an ageing pear shaped body …
I too would love to start with a pattern closer in fit to me.
I reckon it’s well past the time for a new survey of sizes of women – a few years ago 50% of UK women were size 16 (US 12?) and above (an even bigger percentage now); a size B bust cup is small these days – bigger bra cup sizes are the ones that sell. Women are taller too. Same of course in RTW – I see loads of (young) women wearing garments that are for B cups when their’s are larger. I welcome patterns with choice in cup size (though I don’t have a very big bust – my hips, butt and thighs are where my plus size bits lie – my bra size is 36DD.
The big 4 patterns are not cheap in the UK – we don’t have the fantastic and frequent sales I see mentioned on PR; they are more available and do have regular new ranges (though there are endless variations of one dress!). Some indie patterns are good but expensive and often I don’t feel add much new to the mix. I have bought some that I have yet to try. Even though I need to alter patterns, I prefer paper patterns to PDF; from some of the Indies, the difference in price between the two is minimal – the only advantage is no postage.
You ladies are a fantastic advertisement for just what you’re asking for. You all look so consistently gorgeous in the clothes you make yourselves. It really is a shame that it requires so much effort due to limited sizing on the part of pattern makers. (And as always, I’m impressed by Meg’s response here.)
Also: well written!
Well said. All you have to do is look at what brands like Ashley Stewart and Torrid are doing with plus-size fashion to see how out of date most pattern companies are. I totally agree on the bust issue. Just as you sometimes see pattern pieces included for A-D cups, why not D-H? Lastly, and I realize it’s a selfish dream, plus patterns for specific body types would be revolutionary. Sewaholic does a nice job for pear shapes, but I wish they came in larger sizes.
It’s stuff like this that makes me love you all to bits. I am looking to the ladies of this group for inspiration to love my shifting curves (now with stomach curves) instead of draping myself in….drapes. The challenge to design to exalt rather than to shame. The bravery to make the jeans out of the really NICE fabric and say HEY, this is who I am and it’s good, not to just crank out schmatte in cheapo stuff ‘waiting to get slimmer and use the good stuff in the stash’.
Keep on rockin’ it. I am gratefully yours.
Amen and Amen!!
Have wanted an Anna dress, featured in many blogs, since it came out. But alas…Your letter is for the big 4 and Indies!!
Another key point, just like smaller women we come in various shapes, pear, apple, hour glass, you get the idea! Design for all of us and label your patterns accordingly! Don’t just start with a size 8 and hit enlarge on your printer. Tired of too big for a linebacker necklines, arms and shoulders !
Love patterns that have built in bust adjustments! I wear a 28 but need a B-C bust size. A FBA or SBA is hard and tedious. Build that adjustment into your patterns!! Including several sizes in one pattern is helpful for those of us who need to grade up a size in our bust, waist and/or hips.
You will have a loyal following if you do!
Can I just say that the laies in the bottom row are rockin’ it! Way to go ladies of the CSC!! I’m totally inspired to sew right now!
Sorry to anyone having trouble with leaving a comment – we’re looking into it!
Well, my comment has been zapped several times since this article first appeared, but I keep trying!
Meg, it’s wonderful to have a representative of one of the major pattern companies engaging with curvy women through the CSC. Hopefully you will share the feedback you have received with your fellow employees that are responsible for the Butterick and Vogue pattern brands as well.
I would really love to hear about the rationale behind the development and release of the Khalai Ali “balloon dress.” Who was your target customer? How well has the pattern been selling? What kind of comments has McCalls received elsewhere (social media, etc.) regarding the design?
As far as what we want, I don’t know how well those of us posting and/or following the CSC represent ALL plus size sewists out there, but I read much of the same in comments at Pattern Review and in FaceBook groups, so I think our views are representative of a sizable group of curvy ladies.
So…observation one. Size 20, 22, and 24 in McCall/Vogue/Butterick and Simplicity/New Look patterns are only like 16 -20 in RTW. How about bumping the size ranges a little higher, to the equivalent of 26 to 28 in RTW? Only then would you truly be serving Plus Size customers.
Observation two. Us curvy ladies like designer styles too. I hope you can especially pass that along to your fellow employees at the Vogue patterns brand. Other than “Today’s Fit,” most Vogue patterns do not go into the plus size range.
Observation three. We don’t like being treated like second-class customers. We’re well aware that some designers and brands are PROUD that they don’t design for and sell for more curvy/plus size women. We’re all too familiar with the Plus section in department stores being stuck off in some dark corner. Over the years we’ve watched as many Project Runway designers have freaked out when assigned a larger/curvy woman as their client for a project. Those experiences help to explain why so many of us have reacted strongly to that Khalai Ali dress.
Observation four. What do we want? We want stylish attractive designs. A lot of fitted choices as well as the loose garments (because, some women do really prefer the loose ones). We don’t want to be considered second class. With so many of us taking up sewing or coming back to it after years of not sewing (like me!) because we’re dissatisfied with RTW, it’s a real opportunity for your company.
Observation five. Who is doing it right? Some of the indie designer brands, like Colette and Blue Ginger Doll, who are both moving more into plus sizes. Burda paper patterns has a good number of really nice plus size styles; Burda magazine patterns as well (although they have a rather strange idea of what constitutes “plus” since their sizing maxes out at what equates to like a RTW 22). In RTW, ASOS, Eloqui, ModCloth, and others.
Of course, the aforementioned StyeArc and HotPatterns are DOING IT RIGHT too! So much so, that I’ve begun ordering from them, which I would not have done if such styles had been available for plus sizes through the Big 4.
I definitely agree with most of the letter, and I think the biggest issues are sizes just not going up high enough and needing more semi-fitted patterns (you’re kidding with McCall’s 5640, right?) But I also have fitting problems that are different from those of most commenting here: I’m plus size, but carry most of my weight in my abdomen, with a small bust size and butt. I’m also short, and many patterns seem to be scaled for tall women. McCall’s 7029, for example, just doesn’t work on short women, even after you cut off the extra 6 inches at the bottom (to be fair, McCall’s doesn’t have nearly the problem in this area that Vogue does). And there has to be a happy medium between assuming everybody has a flat stomach and making patterns for tents, doesn’t there?
Preach Sisters!!! Pattern companies take note…we are telling you what we need. In some ways you are getting better, but you still have a looonnnnnggggg way to go, and the Fall line up for all the Big 4 just left me shaking my head.
Yay for speaking truth to the pattern makers!!!! Why not make patterns for all bodies! Gosh knows we can’t find clothing that fits on the rack!!!
Well said. It can be very hard to explain to people how it feels to have that “what a cute pattern… Oh, but not for you!” experience over and over. Oh, and bigger boobs? Yeah, they tend to apex a bit further south than those adorable little perky ones. In my daydreams, I can sew a pattern and not have to lower the bust by an inch (or more) to properly deal with my girly bits.
Raven, I don’t even have a big bust (only a D) and I have to lower the darts by about an inch on most patterns!
“C” cup here, same problem — even when my breasts were young and perky. But give the designers a break, y’all. Breasts come in so many shapes and sizes and spacing and hanging range. They had to set some kind of standard, knowing that stitchers would need to adjust to individual body parts anyway.
Short version – the internet are my first comment – grading and altering is very time consuming. I think that the more this is made easier by innovative design of pattern presentation, the larger the market would be for sewists buying patterns. The level of skill and persistence required to alter patterns for my body (short torso, 34HH bust, 44-36-44) deters all but the very determined (which is me). I don’t buy many sewing patterns because the time involved in making alterations is so high that to stop at one make and move on to a new pattern is crazy.
“ate” my first comment….
Very well said! If they started making good looking, larger sizes now I would most probably stick to the Indie designers. But, it would be nice for sewists in other countries to get some affordable patterns
Thank you, thank you, thank you for this open letter, I started sewing because I was sick of the lack of choice at a retail level (all those revolting things you mentioned about muumuus and ruching and styleless clothes for old ladies!) To my despair – i find the sewing patters are just as bad!! I’ve tried adjusting patters but I am a novice so this is really difficult. CSC you rock!
I do agree with most of your post. I am 5ft 3″, a B cup, but am bottom heavy with a large tummy. Ah the joys of being menopausal…
I seem to have more luck with some of the big four patterns than I do the Indi patterns. I struggle getting them big enough in the hips. I am about a size 20 to 22 there, but about a 16 in the bodice graded to the hip measurement for the waist. Style arc only sell their patterns in one size so I don’t tend to use them. Don’t have the skill to grade.
The indi patterns are getting quite expensive, so I stick to pdfs where I can or the B4.
I think everyone can learn a lesson from your post as they all have issues for the sewer.
Yes by no means was this post only about the Big 4! Many indie patterns don’t approach plus sizes at all, and so many of the coolest designs out there are out of reach to all but the most adventurous graders
Jenny and CSC readers, I will try to meet with our merchandising team over the next couple of weeks to pull together answers to your questions, which we hope will be shared here. We’re in a crazy crunch period now with lots of projects happening, so bear with us. Thanks! —Meg for McCall Pattern Company
Super, we will do a blog post on your responses for sure!
I look forward to reading your response.
Also, I obviously can’t speak for anyone but myself, but if any of the Big 4 were to eliminate their plus-size collections entirely and just provide all of their patterns in ALL of the sizes (at least up to a 26), that company would get my money. Lots and lots of my money.
As a plus size sewer myself, I would love to see all of your patterns extended to include women of all body shapes. I want the same designs as everyone else, but am currently stuck with “Grade out, modify, sew muslin, cross fingers. Cry if I make a mistake and rinse and repeat” If your company is kind enough to include people of all sizes in their graiding system, instead of assuming every one of us plus sized folks want to hide who we are, You will find alot of plus size users become loyal to your brand.
Well said! The Khalia Ali “oversized red blanket” pattern is particularly perplexing, given that she used to design reasonably stylish semi-fitted plus sized patterns when she was with Simplicity. I was looking forward to seeing what she’d do with McCall’s, but the patterns in her debut where a disappointment.
On a positive note, I do love that McCall’s has two patterns where their larger size range goes up to a DDD cup size. I don’t buy a lot of Big 4 patterns, but I bought both of these, and I’d love to see more expanded cup sizes in future problems. The world doesn’t stop at a D-cup.
Which patterns are those out of interest?
M6927, a woven t-shirt: http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m6927-products-48273.php?page_id=481
and
M6436, a darted, button-down blouse: http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m6436-products-14883.php?page_id=482
I will admit that I haven’t made either pattern yet, but they’re in my stash!
Just ordered the shirt in the sale! Could it be a busty-lady Archer?! Here’s hoping!
Thanks for the letter! I was so disappointed in the larger sizes that were released by McCall/Vogue/Butterick. I think better is doing a little better for plus size women. They have increased their sizes on several patterns.
Oh so true!!
Is it just laziness on the part of the Big 4 to consistently draft to a B cup? How many of their customers are a true “B”? I am a size 14 with a D cup.
I find that the Connie Crawford patterns are easiest to adjust. I require just one minor adjustment. Vogue are the worst for me – requiring 4-5 adjustments.
Why are the multi-cup patterns mixed in with the B’s. Sometimes you have to read all the fine print in the catalogs to find them.
I am going to look at StyleArc today!
Hear, hear! Very well-put. Personally I like a variety of drapey versus closer-fitting in my wardrobe (I actually have that pattern on the top right and am looking forward to it), but I agree that the loose and drapey is WELL taken care of in this genre… And top middle? WTAF.
P.S. FABULOUS to meet you this weekend! Enjoy the rest of your stay in the ATX and come back soon! 😀
I LOVE THIS!! These same thoughts run through my head every time new patterns are released from Butterick, McCalls, Vogue and Simplicity. For me, Simplicity’s New Look and Project Runway patterns are the worst because I love so many of their dress patterns, but they usually don’t make any patterns that go beyond a size 20. Hello, I want to be your customer, but I don’t think I should have to adjust a good portion of each pattern just so I can be.
This is becoming my favorite sewing blog!! Thanks so much!!
Hi CSC readers! We would be more than happy to answer the questions you have regarding plus-size patterns. Just email us a list and we’ll meet with our merchandising team to get the answers for you, which you can use in a future blog post if you like. We did something similar with the blog We Sew Retro when they expressed concerns about our vintage pattern process.
Maybe the examples you’ve shown here aren’t necessarily to your liking, but many CSC readers have had great success with our patterns. For example, Mary of Idle Fancy and a CSC editor, has made so many cute versions of M6696 we’ve lost count. We even have a photo of her wearing her latest M6696 make posted on our customer bulletin board here at MPC headquarters. And if you scroll through our Pinterest Fan Gallery you’ll see women of all sizes and shapes wearing our patterns. And looking smokin’ hot.
Looking forward to your questions!
Hi Meg,
I think there quite a few questions in the post above, and it would be great to hear your response!
– Why do some of your patterns go to large plus sizes and others don’t?
– Why is there such large amounts of ease in the patterns? (and related to that, why aren’t the finished measurements available on the pattern so we can judge the ease?)
– Why are there not more structured patterns (especially ones that emphasise our curves vs. covering them) available in plus sizes?
– Why are the patterns graded for a B when most women are a D, and many plus size women are bigger ?
Would love to get your thoughts, and hopefully, changes!
Does anyone else have questions?
For what it’s worth, while many of us LOVE M6696, it only goes up to a 24, so many of our CSC readers can’t fit into it without doing their own grading.
thanks
Jenny
I’d like to add a comment to this – I’m not so curious as to *why* the finished measurements are not on the pattern… but rather an exhortation to the pattern companies:
*Please* put the information on the back of the pattern envelope…
…much more useful…
Here in Australia and in the UK, it’s rarer than hen’s teeth to be able to look at these details before one buys the pattern…
G
Too right. I too live in Australia and am tired of wasting money on commercial patterns that do not fit. PLEASE add finished measurements to the outside of pattern envelopes.
We are now adding finished measurements to the outside of all NEW pattern envelopes. Hope this helps.
Thank you, thank you, have just bought a McCalls pattern and realised that these measurements are there. No more guess work. Wonderful.
McCalls… Each of us reading the CSC blog has more than likely seen the success of Mary/idle fancys awesome shirt dress makes. Was your comment here to indicate that we should all stick with that one pattern for our future pattern purchases? I don’t think we are saying you do nothing well in the larger size arena. But how you responded here was quippy, bordering on dismissive. As a segment of the market — you need to know that is how we are frequently treated. It would be great if you could put a little more thought into your responses prior to “acting average” in our direction. I am pleased you are addressing this wonderfully well articulated post though!
Hi Pam! Just wanted to say that there was never any intent to appear quippy or dismissive with my response on behalf of the company. I agonized over what to write, in fact. I’m really sorry if you felt this is how my comment came off. The other tact would have been to not respond at all to Jenny’s post, which is how we may have handled this in previous years. But we thought it was important to let CSC readers know that we do read your blogs and comments, and that we take your criticisms and suggestions seriously. —Meg
As an avid sewer who wears a size 28, i am always so hopeful when i sit down to a pattern book, and almost always walk away disappointed. The butterick Connie Crawford line is probably your best so far but most of your costumes and historical patterns dont go past a 22 (if they go that high.) There are so few evening dresses or flirty cloths in the higher range of sizes that i feel like i’m in a department store, all the good cloths for the skinny girls and i get stuck with flower sacks.
I sew because i love it, and because i love good looking cloths that fit, something i have a hard time finding in stores. we dont want to be special sections in your books, we want the whole book. (ok, maybe just half) We understand that once you get past a size 20 or so you need yet another sizing model because big women are shaped so many different ways, but if you could at least get most patterns up to 26-30, you would woo a LOT more business your way.
Perfectly stated, editors. Thank you.
Finally!!! I have allways wondered why the clothing/pattern industry wants me to hide my best assets: my cleavage and waist!!
And for that matter: it even gets worse when you’re curvy and over 50! So I adjust and stick to a few patterns that look good on my body.
One of the great advantages of being curvy: my face and cleavage hardly changed through the years. 🙂
Greetings from the Netherlands!!
Nellisa
Hi CSC readers! We’re trying to reply here but we keep getting error messages that we’re trying to spam you. Which we aren’t! —Meg at the McCall Pattern Company
Huh I’m not sure why that is happening if you can write this post! But you can email us if you want – mail@curvysewingcollective.com
I had to change the name field from “The McCall Pattern Company” to “Meg Carter” to get it to accept the comment. Tried a number of times to make it work but will try again.
Hi!
Did there ever come a longer reply from McCall’s? Would be really interested in reading it. 🙂
Merry winter wishes!
Sara
Hi Sara! I did interview our head of merchandising about this topic. As I told Jenny, it’s been crazy-busy here these last couple of months. I’m going to do my best to get something written up within the next few weeks, hopefully in early 2015. We haven’t forgotten about it!
Well, I think I’m going to be a troublemaker! The lack of larger sized patterns has been an issue for a while. When the Big 4 failed to step up, indie companies (Colette, Style Arc, Petite Plus, Sewaholic, etc) filled the need with current styles in (usually) well drafted patterns. I realize that these patterns are more expensive than the Big 4 (the large companies have economies of scale as well as having profits in one area that can cover losses in another) but these small companies were the ones who listened to us and provided something we would be proud to sew and wear. If the Big 4 suddenly started producing high quality stylish large sized patterns that they could sell at their ridiculously low prices, these indie companies that have supported us would probably be forced out of business. Personally, I would rather have a few patterns from a company that has supported me than many patterns from a company that finally jumps on the bandwagon because they realized there is a profit to be made. These indie patterns harken back to the days when the Big 4 had patterns created by designers who put out a stylish, well-designed product which they were proud to have their name attached. Perhaps I’m just angry that the Big 4 treat us as “blobs”.
On the other hand, those great indy patterns are really only available to people living in the US unless you have a good disposable income. At $17 – $20 per pattern and then an additional $20 in shipping per pattern internationally, they are way out of my price range and I will probably never buy one.
When I was in my 20s & early 30s I could sew directly from the pattern. I fit the pattern size perfectly with no adjustments. Now that I have come back to sewing in my 50s I realize that the pattern companies are still designing for the me I used to be and not the me I am now. When I flipped to the plus sized pages in the pattern books I was dismayed to find the equivalent of muumuus and what looked like maternity blouses. I want to sew a dress, not a tent! As a post-menopausal woman, I carry my weight on my tummy…I am not pregnant! I am not yet experienced enough to make pattern adjustments. The things I sew look very home made because of this (though I firmly believe practice makes perfect and will continue until I get it right!). So kudos to you for this letter. I hope you mailed it.
Check out the plus sized clothing fitting book by Barbara Deckert. I’m a n00b and she walked me through pattern changes and fitting issues well enough that I feel reasonably confident in altering patterns to fit me and then fitting the resulting garments. She also has a Craftsy class that covers the contents of the book and would be helpful for visual learners. Honestly, I carry my weight in my belly and my hips (it’s a mama belly) and I find that if I grade out from the waistline by the number of inches divided by twice the number of seams, then I’m able to get enough ease in to fit comfortably.
Example
My hips measure 57″ around, I tend to like about 3-4 inches of ease which brings us to a 60″ sweep for a woven blouse. The pattern size I chose has hips that measure 52″ and the finished hip is 55″.
60-55=5 inches to grade up
I want to add my inches at the sides so I’m not going to add space to the center seam here.
2 seam lines x 2= 4
5/4= 1.2 inches to add to each side of the back pattern piece and to the side seams of the fronts. I would round up to 1.25″ unless I wanted to get fancy with cms and mms.
Grading is definitely a solution for most of us! But it is a bit frustrating to have to do it constantly, and so much…
I have to say i mostly agree. My only point of contention… Colette doesnt size their cloths up enough. 3x or 18 seem to be the highest most of their patterns go. I love their patterns from afar because i cant buy them to fit me. Why should i spend 9$-$18 per pattern when i still will need to size it up to fit me?
Style Arc is better but there are only 2 pages of plus sized patterns, compared to the rest of their site. Hot Patterns seems to be the best but they still only go to size 26.
*frustrated*
Harmony – not sure if you’ve seen, but actually all StyleArc patterns go up to a 30, not just the ones on the plus size page!
I guess i’ll have to look again. Thanks.
very well articulated indeed. perplexing that the pattern making exec’s don’t seem to be on the internet spotting new and quickly expanding markets. Or wait, maybe they are and that Khalia Ali job on the top row is the interpretation? (I sure hope she just modeled that and did not have anything to do with the design…I met her once and even in well fitted exercise clothing she looked like a million bucks…why she has her name on a lot of this moomoo stuff defies explanation!). Really now pattern creating big four companies: it’s the dawning (slight sarcasm – but seriously as the Internet explodes with opportunities, we no longer “have to” settle) of a new era in home sewing. We’ve decided to make things that fit…and you all would sell lots more patterns if you decided we were a viable market segment! So what do you say? Genuinely address the needs of a previously locked in market share, or loose it to India companies that are designing (beautifully) for us curvy types?
YEP! Agreeeeeeeeeeeee!
Well said!
Edited go add: At least I wanted to say “well said” – short and to the point. But now I have to edit this because my comment was too short and apparently I didn’t sY anything useful. What is up with that? I’m having a pretty shitty day and now I come to my favourite space on the web to be told what I have to say isn’t useful! What a kick in the face. I hope this gets fixed/ changed. It’s really quite horrible 🙁
Hi Geri – WordPress (the site we use) has a minimum number of words for all comments to avoid spam (which we get a lot of), sorry about that – it’s nothing personal! J
Love this. You go girls.
My ten year old daughter thought the middle top row was a Halloween costume, not that’s a statement.
Also one other pattern company that has a large range of sizes Sihoutte patterns she has been grading larger for nearly 17 yrs. along with B, C, and D cups. I think maybe her styles are more for us older generation but she does have some great classic.
I just looked at Silhouette’s website… is there a size chart somewhere?
Oh, the size charts are per pattern.
Unless the top middle is supposed to be a rain cover up that you can fit your backpack and bike under, or hey, maybe its also a table cloth or tent? Reminds me of some Project Runway designs for larger women that were just rude.
AMEN. Let’s hope they listen.
And what the heck is up with that bedspread thing in the top row? Would ANYONE actually wear that?
It’s hilarious. I would love to try it on and just swish around taking up acres of space. And then go to sleep in it.
Well done! I agree with everything you’ve said and I hope they take note it’s about time for change and being more inclusive in the patterns they produce. I regularly have to do FBA to a DD, shorten waist, full abdomen, shorten shoulders and add length to the patterns I use and having a better fitting starting point would be fab! Well done to CSC for your support and tutorials, I’m loving the positivity and creativity you bring to my day. x
Absolutely! Well said Jenny! Quite frankly I’m astonished at the offering in the middle of the top row, whoever decided that was a good look for anyone, regardless of shape and size, needs to be made to wear it, every day, night and day, for a month – that would surely punish them!