Do you have a wedding in your future? Are you contemplating sewing your wedding gown, instead of buying one? If you’ve pondered this and read some dismal reports from others online who journeyed into the land of bridal sewing with poor results, don’t worry. I’m here to tell you that the experience can be positive and can result in a beautiful gown that’s uniquely you.
My wedding gown and ensemble [photo by Lone Pine Photography]
When I began planning my wedding, I knew that I wanted to sew my wedding dress. My mom sewed her wedding dress and my great-grandmother sewed my grandmother’s dress. Besides following in the footsteps of a family tradition, I was never enamored with what I saw in bridal magazines. I was the girl who always wanted to be unique, but gowns in bridal magazines were pretty much the same. Nope! Not for me. I wanted something that was my style and meant for me. By sewing my own gown, I was able to get just that.
1. Give yourself plenty of time. I had a year-and-a-half to plan my wedding. That gave me all the time I needed to dream up and sew my gown. You don’t want to be rushed. If you’re rushed, you’re stressed. That isn’t pleasant for anyone — including your dress!
2. Set a budget. Sewing your own dress will not necessarily be cheaper than purchasing a dress. You will most likely need an immense amount of fabric and, depending up on your chosen fabric content, it may be costly. If your wedding has a strict budget, be sure to consider the cost of your dress materials carefully. It’s not just your main fabric to budget for, but muslin fabrics, linings, closures, and embellishments.
3. Try on dresses. The best way to discover your dream dress style is to actually try one on! Make a day of it and go gown shopping with your friends. Try on different silhouettes and find out which style speaks to you. Take photos and use them for your inspiration. By figuring out your gown likes and dislikes, you’ll have a better idea of where your own pattern should start. Plus, you’ll have the unique experience of trying on gowns in a bridal salon, which can be so much fun!
4. Know your limits. If you’ve never sewn a garment before, it’s not a good idea to make that first dress your wedding dress. I’m not saying that a beginner can’t sew a wedding dress, but if your sewing skills are not terribly advanced, don’t choose a dress that is too complicated. Choose a simpler design or get someone more experienced to help you.
5. Gather inspiration for your dress. Look at bridal magazines and wedding websites, snagging photos of dresses you love. Figure out which aspects of these gowns appeal to you and what embellishments are must-haves for your dream gown. Don’t limit yourself to looking at wedding gowns, especially if you don’t want the same as every other modern bride. Peruse the photos in books (or on websites) of historical and retro fashion, couture fashion, film costuming — anything that will inspire you. Join these together and mold them to create your own dress.
6. Study your pattern choices carefully. Once you know what you want, search for patterns that illustrate your design. Be sure to study the line drawings closely, taking notice of different bodice and skirt shapes. Remember that a pattern is just a jumping off point. You can mix-and-match or alter patterns to achieve your silhouette, then add embellishments after you finalize the base dress pattern. Don’t be limited by bridal patterns either, as you may find what you want in the special occasion, historical, or casual dress categories.
7. Do your sewing research. By sewing your wedding dress, you may be entering into a new area of sewing, one with more advanced techniques and unfamiliar fabrics. Before you start dress construction, read a few applicable books to get a feel for what tasks you’ll be undertaking. Not only will they familiarize you with the process, but they will be resources to help you along the way. The book that helped me immensely during this process was Bridal Couture: Fine Sewing Techniques for Wedding Gowns and Evening Wear by Susan Khalje.
8. Make a muslin (or three). It’s very important to make at least one muslin (or toile) mock-up of your wedding gown. You will not only be able to get the fit and the length right, but you can also practice any new skills that you may be encountering. This is especially important if you’re trying out advanced techniques for the first time, like lace work or button loops, as this gives you the opportunity to become acquainted with those skills before cutting into your gown fabric.
9. Take care of your dress, while you’re making it. Be aware of what’s around you and your bridal fabric whenever you’re working on your dress. The last thing you want to do is spend hours and hours of time sewing your dress just to stain it. Pretend that you’re in a couturier and keep yourself and your sewing area clean. Wash your hands before touching your fine fabric and avoid applying lotion, as it can stain fabrics. Keep your nails snag free. Keep your sewing table clean of dirt, lint, and threads from other fabrics. Don’t drink or eat around your dress. Put your dress away or cover it when you’re not working on it.
10. Take your time. The most important thing I can stress is to take your time. This is not the project for speedy sewing. Don’t take any short cuts. Don’t set unreasonable time limits for yourself. Instead, take this time to do your finest sewing and add all the finishes and details that will make your dress an heirloom. If you’re taking the time to sew your dress, why not sew it as best you can? Make this experience a pleasurable one, not a stressful one!
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My husband and I on our wedding day [photo by Lone Pine Photography]
FYI: My wedding gown was made of peau de soie satin and had rosettes, ribbons, beads, lace trim and a corset back. I used separate patterns for the bodice and skirt. My gown was both lined and underlined. Meanwhile, my bridal jacket was an altered bolero pattern make of silk dupioni with rosettes and ruffles. My mantilla veil was made of English Cotton Net and French Alencon Lace and is all handsewn (it costs more than my dress….). I also made my taffeta slip, silk garters, and bridal purse. I’m actually going to be making myself another “wedding” dress soon for my vow renewal/convalidation ceremony, so it’s good for me to revisit these before I get started! If you’re interested in historical/vintage bridal fashions, I have several boards on my pinterest page.
Hey Tanya, I have personally witnessed so many do – it – yourself wedding dresses go wrong. I did not want to be one of those distressed brides. However, I also cannot afford a designer to work on my dress. I forgot all my fears after I read your blog and now I have a wonderful dress in my hand.
Thank you Tanya – this post is so timely! I am making my own dress – my wedding is in 2 and a half weeks! Almost there, although I am having some organza ‘issues’ so I have posted in the forum for help!!
I made mine too . . . I made the basic dress in Jan (got married in May). In Jan I needed to add two darts on the sides, but I waited. Why? Every bride, ever, will change sizes before the day. I knew I’d either take it in or fill it out (my seams were also one inch, so that I could take out the sides if needed. Two days before the wedding, and about five minutes after I finished attaching the last bead, we took it in a whopping three inches at the waist, tucked the side boobs, and . . . all those beads also changed the weight of the dress, so the tucks were less than what originally thought.
I used a simple Simplicity pattern and then added a lace overlay and beading. I also beaded a little bag that had lipstick and smokes (I still smoked then).
The dress took about six hours to sew. The beading . . . that was a little at a time. I actually never tried on a dress, or wore any wedding dress, except this one. Point: the process can be very rewarding but give yourself time. Also, use your dress as a channel for the stress. There’s a reason mine has crystals on the chest and individual pearl like beads on the empire waist and down the back. 😉
Was it cheaper? Yes and no. My labor . . . was it worth it? The memories of making the dress are lovely peaceful escapes.
Love your dress Tanya. I made my wedding dress with fabric my step-dad brought home from a UN tour for me. I picked a simple design and had awesome fabric. I got the style I wanted in MY size ( virtually impossible in my little town) and I would do it again in a heartbeat.
Your tip about trying on different styles is awesome. So many people have a vision and when they try it on it’s not quite right and something else they hadn’t thought of is gorgeous! Try try try!
I sewed a long skirt for my first wedding, back in 1971. I was overly ambitious and didn’t factor in that I’d planned the ceremony at the end of the college semester. A lot of the sewing didn’t get done, but the marriage lasted 37 years. I am getting married again in June. I think I will go with my Folkwear Walking skirt pattern, and make a skirt that can be used for special occasions. And I’m leaning towards either a Gibson Girl blouse or maybe a WWI era blouse to go with it. And I don’t have a lot of time to get this done, but they are not complicated patterns.
Hi Tanya, Really nice post! I also made my wedding dress and I loved it! 🙂
I can’t agree more. See my own post on the very same topic: http://www.restlessgrace.blogspot.com/2013/08/10-things-to-know-about-making-my-own.html
BFF’s wedding. Designed-constructed-helped stage entire event. Used a Belleville-Sassoon design for her bodice-my gown. Same fabric choice, in candlelight (perfect for anyone who looks miserable in stark white) for bride; rich teal for honor attendant (Moi). Her skirt, McCall bridal pattern Size 16 sans silly tucks, fit bodice waist perfectly. Bodice embellished w/Alencon lace medallions, beaded, fitted over bodice, hand-stitched onto fitted tulle ‘breastplate’ and tacked onto bodice. Double-edge yard of lace provided both front-back edging (with requisite beading). Sleeves were petals with cameo lace piece above beaded swags held in place with pearl drops. Back lace design was fun. Similar ‘breastplate’ concept, this time to disguise back zipper. Lace piece attached to left side of back bodice, and held securely in place on right via 3 velcro snaps. Her family was thrilled with her gown. His family? Could not believe any Curvy woman could look gorgeous. Especially not their cousin’s fiancee. Nor could they determine how she got into-out of her gown with no visible zipper.
In 1983, waisted Curvy bridal gowns were rarely seen. For meager style, one used made-to-measure ‘experts’. BFF’s gown was made-to-measure (by Moi). Both Curvy gowns cost $250, including all materials. Underpinnings, shoes, flowers extra but well within established budget. Groom covered catering-evening dinner for two-bridal trip. Bride-Groom shared small chapel rental espense.
Each item listed above is paramount for a successful DIY wedding. Or any wedding. Once a reasonable budget–with 10% wiggle room–is established, the production planning becomes easier. Enlist BFFs, family, trusted vendors–your team is your support. Bring a wedding in under budget and on time? Corporate America’s a breeze in comparison.
You Can Do It. We did!
I have to laugh – I made my wedding dress out of rice paper and could not wear it on the day as the zip was ripping out! It’s framed in my living room; we used it for the guest ‘book’.
Having made a few traditional ones since then, I gotta recommend cotton gloves for handling the yardage (you can use them later over lotioned hands at night) and a biiiig cutting area you can have to yourself. A pingpong table is perfect, or a 4’x8′ board (even 1/4″ thick will work) over a smaller one; wrap the edges in duct tape and make sure it’s smooth (painting it does the job pretty well). You can get yardage flat, on grain, layered with tissue, whatever you’re doing with it, and really take your time with it. Much less stressful. Hey, and enjoy! Take pleasure in the work! This one is for YOU.
Lovely dress, Tanya! I need to see more photos 😉
I made my wedding dress eleven years ago, and I had an additional “curvy conundrum”: I was going to be seven months pregnant on my wedding day, as well as being on a very tight budget. I found nothing I liked in the bridal magazines, except for one silk gown that was more than the budget for my entire wedding. I finally found an Empire-waist gown pattern with a trailing skirt in my favourite store, but I had to visit another store for the fabrics and yet another to find the trim. Oh, and I had less than six months to put everything together, including the gowns for my maid of honour and my flower girl. It took me three muslins to get the FBA for the bodice perfect, and I had to cut the skirt pieces on my dining room floor, since my table wasn’t anywhere near big enough, even fully extended. The Monday before the wedding, I finally finished the hem with help from my non-sewing aunt and a family friend who was a seamstress.
I had worked as an alterations girl in a bridal boutique before I decided to make my own dress in 1986, so the fabrics and need for clean were not new to me. We were young students with limited budget, and the DIY aspects were very important for me because I knew when we married that we would be leaving the US to my husband’s country.I actually used an inexpensive satin and made my muslin in a lovely, cheap lavender color which I wore as a party dress at least twice–bonus! It was quite plain, with no special techniques because I didn’t know any. Just a special design, combining 3 patterns, that I’m still pleased with even now when I know so much better. The flowers that My mom and I did, yes they were fake, was a special bonding for us. My aunt made a beautiful 3 tier cake, My father took great photos, and the way they supported us in the face of even their own doubts has been a shining example of unconditional love. By the way, you look beautiful and I love love love the bolero/jacket.
Simply Beautiful! I made my own wedding gown when I was a mere 18 yrs old. Thank goodness for my mother who was a seamstress!
It’s always good to have support when sewing something like this! I had my mom and my MIL (who is also a seamstress) to ask for advice when I was sewing mine.
So very true. Had it not been for my mother it would have been a disaster. I have a longer torso so she made sure I lengthened the bodice piece! Thank goodness.
Andie makes an excellent point about complicated patterns; I’d like to weigh in on complicated fabrics. While peau de soie and alencon lace and ribbon roses are gorgeous, bridal fabrics are sometimes a pain to work with. For a much lower stress sew-your-own experience, consider maybe making up a dressy TNT in daywear fabrics–easier to sew, easier to keep clean, easier to replace or find more of–Roisin, who blogs at Dolly Clackett, did a beautiful job with her wedding dress using a familiar pattern and (bright, because it is Roisin) Liberty lawn.
Yes, and if you go that route you have dresses for other occasions as well! 🙂
These are all excellent considerations. You look beautiful and uniquely you which is the whole point of sewing your own wedding dress in the first place. I made my own cake because that’s what was important to me for many of the same reasons.
Making you own cake? Definitely a labor of love! I DIY’d most of my wedding with my friends and family and thought about doing the cake, too. In the end it was just easier to not add to my stress and let the baker do it.
#4 was a big lesson recently with my wedding dress plans. In making the muslin, I realized that what I was planning wasn’t in my limits. So, I’ve really toned it down and reduced how many new techniques I am using for my wedding dress and made the overall style a lot simpler so I can focus on lush fabrics. I feel so much better. 😀 Thanks for the list.
You can always dress up a simple design with embellishments! 🙂 My dress is rather simple in design. I also made most of my bridesmaids dresses, too, so that added a lot to my sewing stress… honestly would just have them buy their dresses if I was to do it again!
I made that decision a while ago. No sewing the bridemaids dresses. Considering one is wearing a tuxedo, I am glad to not be doing that!
The plan is simple design with embellishments and lush fabrics. 🙂 I’m excited to start it. Of course, I have to make another muslin first and then buy the fabric. 😉
All very good points. I’d like to add another: don’t plan huge changes to your body (losing/gaining) during this period. It’s stressful enough without constantly telling yourself oh, if I could just lose another 10/20/50/however many pounds, or if I could just work out enough to get that Beyoncé booty, etc., everything would be perfect.
You’re perfect right now, just as you are. Don’t let the fashion or fitness magazines, friends, family, or anyone else tell you anything different. And you’ll be beautiful on a very special day.
Completely agree! 🙂 You definitely don’t need to add to the stress and your partner wanted to marry you as is anyway! 🙂
Yes! That’s a good point for any bride — regardless of whether they’re making their own dress or not. I chose not to talk about body issues in this post as we are a site that stresses body positivity and loving the person you are.